30th and 31st May 2018

Over these two days we have walked between Prestatyn and Colwyn Bay, 8 miles the first day (to Abergele) and 7 miles today. It couldn’t be more different to last year’s expedition on the South West Coastal Path – this is so flat and ‘promenade’ and this week we have splendid coastal views to admire. The sea is incredibly tranquil – soothing little waves lapping. Today particularly the sun has been shining down so there were plenty of families on the sands enjoying their half-term leisure. Yesterday’s walk was slightly bleaker – today it felt so much prettier, in fact it was one of those ‘good to be alive days.’ We love Colwyn Bay – beautiful seaside resort.

So largely it passed with incident … except that is for the hat! Steve has a very favourite hat – his leather cowboy hat which he bought on a wine-tasting trip to Argentina. I clearly remember the day he strolled back into Heathrow wearing it – it made him look even taller!! And since then it’s travelled the world with him, including our recent ‘gap year’ travels to South East Asia, Australia and New Zealand. Sometimes when it looks like rain he chooses to wear it while walking, yesterday was one of those days. Now our logistics for the day involved getting a train from Abergele to Prestatyn and, unfortunately, Steve managed to leave said hat in the luggage rack. He was so annoyed with himself and just really sad …. he loved that hat. ☹️ He found a phone number for ‘lost luggage’ who informed him that they were unable to contact the trains or stations along the way – they would log the enquiry and let him know in 10-14 days if anything turned up. Throughout the walk he kept trying to put it out of his mind because there seemed little hope.

After our 8 miles and a picnic lunch we returned to the car which we’d parked at the station. Seeing the trains again, Steve decided to take the search of his hat into his own hands! The train we had caught only had two carriages so that was the first thing to spot. After an hour of waiting along came a two-carriage train. So, it was just a case of how to get on the train and have a look!?

Now, for those of you who haven’t heard the story, Steve has a bit of history in terms of getting stuck on trains!! He once helped Alice carry her suitcase onto a train when she was going back to University in Manchester …. and the doors closed. Poor Alice had to sit there in excruciating embarrassment while Steve ran from carriage to carriage frantically pushing the buttons … but no doors opened and the train set off. And so pursued lots of complications – he had parked in a 20 minute bay, he had no glasses, no money, slippers on … and obviously no ticket!! And he didn’t want to go to Manchester! We were in the midst of making back-up plans over the phone, involving me, Tom and Emma, when the ticket collector came along – Steve explained his plight. She fetched her Manager and they kindly made an unscheduled stop at Nuneaton. The funniest part of it all though was that, as Steve got off, someone tried to get on the train and the guard stopped him, saying “we don’t stop here.” Steve jumped off trying to look as inconspicuous as he could and walked away avoiding eye contact with the disgruntled traveller!!!

Luckily yesterday in Abergele, the guard stepped out of the train and Steve asked him if he could look for his hat. The guard wasn’t particularly Mr.Happy – telling Steve he’d have to be quick as they were already running 15 minutes late. Steve jumped on and raced through the carriage …. and appeared at the door with a beaming smile … and his beloved hat.

So the hat had travelled all the way to Manchester airport, via Chester, Runcorn etc. and return, but had found its way back to Steve. Such a happy ending. ❤️

Monday 28th May 2018

So at the start of our second week of coastal path walking we finally came across the sea today! And wonderful it was too to hear the lapping waves, to smell and feel the sea breeze, to watch children enjoying their play on the sands and to be surrounded by hovering seagulls. It’s not that we haven’t enjoyed the Dee Estuary but we’re glad that it’s over. This is more like what we signed up for!!

Whilst many of the UK population were enjoying some Bank Holiday slumber, we were up and out early as we had to fit in 14 miles of walking – you don’t get holidays when you retire you know!!

A few hills introduced today but nothing major (as yet) – some pretty decent paths, the obligatory stiles, patches of overgrown stingers (note to self: wear long trousers tomorrow!), fields of cows, welsh dragons and a rather large boat!

Steve’s always on the lookout for a shortcut so persuaded me to shimmy up the side of a grass bank to cross a railway track – I did said shimmy but drew the line at the barbed wire fence to cross the track …. we took the longer way round – minutes later a Virgin train whizzed by at 125mph! 🤔

Unfortunately there was a fair bit of road walking – not always the most exciting of views … but at least we got to practice our Welsh in reading the road signs.

Absolutely amazing weather once again – in fact the day just got hotter and hotter. By midday we had already clocked up nearly 10 miles so we stopped for our picnic lunch … and then a little further on a delicious malteser ice-cream – we’d put in the work and this was a justified reward.

As we neared Prestatyn we hit the sand dune walking, always a favourite (not) … but the Welsh people are much kinder than their English counterparts – they had provided wooden boarding to traverse large sections of the dunes (not all) – so much easier on our calves.

So two sets of weary legs finally reached Prestatyn mid-afternoon. We rested up for a while in the sunshine before hopping on a bus back to base. A good day of walking today – the longest so far.

Tuesday 29th May 2018

Steve got up crazily early and fitted in a 13 mile run … a couple of nights ago after a few beers he signed himself for another marathon – 3 days after we get back! 🤔

Another ‘move on’ day today and also a ‘non-walking’ day. We had decided that before we got too much further into Wales we would head back for a look around Chester, so once the car was loaded up, back we drove across the border. Really pleased that we did, I now can see why people rave about this pretty historical city. We walked and talked, had coffee, then lunch, explored the city wall … even fitted in a boat cruise … and throughout it all the sun shone down. Stunning, lots of photo opportunities.

A beautiful scenic drive then to our new airbnb destination in Old Colwyn – absolutely splendid countryside views. Settled into a gorgeous house owned by a lovely young couple, Sioned and Daniel, and they speak Welsh – I love the sound of the Welsh language. And shortly we’re off to the pub … for dinner 😊

Friday 25th May 2018

As we had walked the quota of miles for this leg of our trip, today was a ‘free from walking day’ – so, what did we do, we started the day off with a run!

We’d promised ourselves all week that we would use this day to fully explore this beautiful village we’ve been staying in – Port Sunlight. As the rain decided to join us today we headed for the Museum first and learnt so much about the history of the remarkable entrepreneur and reformist, William Heskith Lever, who not only set up and ran a hugely successful business but created this haven for his workers to live in – driven by his passion to move people away from slum living and narrow lives, and achieve a motivated workforce. Steve and I have been bowled over by this place, if it wasn’t so far away from family we might feel tempted to snuggle into this still charming community.

The museum was interestingly set out and it was great to see products from our past such as Sunlight Soap, Lux, Lifebouy household soap and Vim – who remembers those? – it’s amazing what you forget until you’re reminded. Next door to the museum is a family house set up as it would have been in the late 19th/early 20th century – and it really was incredible the space and facilities they had for that time.

After the museum we went to the Art Gallery that Lord Lever had opened and named the Lady Lever Art Gallery in honour of his late wife. Again he had wanted to open the eyes of his employees to the wider cultural world – what an inspiration this man was. We really enjoyed viewing his art collection which included a Turner and a Constable painting …. and even a sculpture named ‘Deidre!’

The gloomy weather settled in for the rest of the day so a photographic wander around the village was off the cards – we resorted to some chill time in the house, early dinner and a bit of local pub time.

Saturday 26th May 2018

Now despite having had a few wines the night before, we were awake early to get to the Birkenhead Parkrun for 8.30am. It was in a pretty park and we’d read that it was a fairly flat course – there was however a sneaky hill at the end of mile 1 and as it was a three lap course it meant you had to face this uphill battle three times. Steve managed to get a PB however, I missed out on one by about 9 seconds – but it was the best time I had done in ages! Actually enjoyed it.

We sadly checked out of our Port Sunlight accommodation today – we will definitely come back. As the sun was shining we took the opportunity to whizz around the village to take some photos.

With the car all packed up we drove across the border into Wales and found a convenient parking place for today’s walk. We parked in Shotton and took the bus to where we thought was an ideal place to pick up the River Dee path, which forms part of the Wales coastal path. Unfortunately we didn’t get the planning of this quite accurate – we found ourselves on the wrong side of the river – this meant we had to walk all the way back into Chester which added an extra couple of miles onto our walk – hey ho!!!

It did however mean we got to see and hear (very loudly) Chester Racecourse which was exciting, lots of galloping horses.

Lots of straight riverside walks again today … still no sea!! Many many cyclists whizzing along this path. Some sections more scenic than others – Steve positively drooled over some of the ploughed fields – he’s seriously missing his OCD task of mowing stripes into his beloved lawn!!

So after 8 miles of walking we reached our destination – back to the car. We drove on from there to our next Airbnb in Bagilt. Beautiful house owned by Andy and his son Josh and beautiful sheepdog Frank. Showered and made some dinner … then it was down to the local pub – The Blossoms – to watch the Champions League Final – well, won’t say too much more about that!

Sunday 27th May 2018

We had a leisurely start to the day – doing less miles each day means we don’t need to get up at the crack of dawn. The bus from the village only goes every 2 hours so we chose 11.00am rather than 9.00am (wise choice). Another 8 miler today – a whole mixture of environments – riverside, industrial areas, woods, mudflats and roads (very noisy roads in fact)! Just steady plodding – nothing particularly eventful – a few more aches and pains to add to the collection, but what’s new – we’re old!!!

And back to our cosy Airbnb where Steve cooked us a roast beef dinner – can’t be bad. 😊 It doesn’t all have to be hard work you know.

Thursday 24th May 2018

Day 4 – still no sea!!

Apart from a glimpse of the Irish Sea on the first day, we have not seen the sea on the Wirral’s coastal path. We’ve seen plenty of sand marshes, the estuary (in the distance) countryside and villages …. but no sea! As beautiful as it is, we’re looking forward to a few sandy beaches and waves crashing over the next week or two.

We managed to plan today’s walk using a bus to get to the starting point and a train to get home, so were able to leave the car at base. The bus took us to Ness Botanic Gardens and from there we wandered down to the coastal path at Burton Village where we left off yesterday. To be honest, today’s route was not the most inspiring … the path started along the marshes/firing range with industrial views as a backdrop – then onto the longest straight path (disused railway line) I think I have ever encountered …. it just went on forever! Parts of it were pretty but SO straight – just like a Roman road. Thrown into the mix were some residential areas, some industrial estate walking and canal tow path.

There was more cloud about today but no showers which I believe the South of the country has been experiencing. I know this because Steve tuned into the England v Pakistan test match at Lords as we walked – oh so very English!

Yesterday we had wafts of hawthorn, today we had wafts of manure – huge mounds of it as we passed one particular farm and also some pretty interesting aromas on the industrial estate. Outside one particular Food company there was a pungent smell of cloves – reminded me of my Nana’s apple pies – I used to have to sneak the cloves out as I hated the smell and taste of them then!

We crossed into Wales at one point but returned to England a mile or two down the lane!

I’ve never been to Chester and was so looking forward to seeing the city that people rave about. I think we must have come into it the wrong way … only managed to walk through some not so salubrious residential areas and to the railway station. So after today’s 10 mile walk, we were not even rewarded with the magnificent views of this 1st century AD walled city.

But we’ll be back …. we have one more day in Port Sunlight (we have a day off walking tomorrow and so are planning to explore this incredible Grade II listed village we are lucky enough to be staying in) and then we’ll be moving on to Chester (or just outside) for 3 days. And hoping to catch up with our lovely friend Jo and her husband Jez and their daughter Lulu while we’re there – so excited.

Day 3, Weds 23rd May 2018 Thurstaston to Burton Village

I just love the smell of hawthorn, for me it heralds ‘summertime’ … and today it was gloriously wafting throughout our walk, accompanied by blue cloudless skies – summer clearly comes early in these parts. ☀️

We’re still walking the route along the Dee Estuary, this area’s coastal path. We have had to follow the Wirral Circular trail for large parts of it – this took us inland so a lot of countryside walking today. We did try to find a way of walking nearer to the coastline – this however involved boggy marshland that got boggier as we progressed, so we had to retrace our steps.

We passed through some beautiful villages though such as Parkgate – it has a picturesque seafront with fish and chip shops, ice-cream shops and village pubs … but sadly no sea! Instead it has vast salt marshes rich with wildlife including ducks, geese, wading birds and birds of prey. On the few occasions a year when the tide is high, you can see small mammals fleeing to the sea wall including field voles, shrews, moles, rats and harvest mice – apparently tourists come especially to witness this – not really my kind of thing, I’ll stick to the fish and chips!! 😉

We also passed through the village of Neston which has a fine cricket ground, much admired by Steve. The old ‘country boy’ skills came in handy too as we walked up towards Burton Village – a couple of lambs had escaped from their field and were scurrying and bleeting around on the country lane – their Mum was anxiously baaing out to them! Farmer Steve managed to open the gate and safely herd them home to safety. His good deed for the day!

So it was truly a beautiful sunny 9 mile stroll today – very few hills – magnificent views of the Welsh coastline to our right (looking forward to exploring that next week), luscious countryside (gained a few nettle stings) with its magnificent scents. It’s days like this that you can really appreciate the fine country we live in and Steve and I are loving the new parts of the UK that this coastal adventure takes us to.

Again today we passed some spectacular houses in beautiful locations and it crossed our minds as to what money could buy in contrast to the South! However, we had a taxi ride back to the car and the driver requested that we don’t tell anyone how stunning life is in The Wirral – they prefer to keep it to themselves!! He suggested we pass that word that The Wirral is (in his Liverpudlian accented words) a S***hole!!!

And we achieved that 9 miles in 2 and a half hours – oh yes, I have to speed walk to keep up with the ‘Scout Master.’ And it’s all about ‘minutes per mile’ and ‘miles per hour – that’s how our life rolls!! Bring on tomorrow – we’re walking to Chester.

Yay we’re back … it’s time to blog again.   We’re off on some more walking adventures – this time The Wirral, Chester and North Wales.   Having spent a fabulous weekend in Liverpool at the Rock and Roll Marathon ( a true mixture of running and partying), we got up early and felt relatively bright this morning, donned the trusty old walking gear, picked up the poles …. and jumped into the car!

Yes we’re doing things a little different this time.  Having analysed last year’s South West Coastal Path ‘endurance’ walk we have made the following amendments to our strategic planning:

1.  We’re going to take it a bit easier!!!  Not pack in the miles like last time – aiming for between 5 and 10 miles a day depending on terrain.  No we haven’t got lazy – we just want to be able to stop for breath occasionally, admire the views along the way and get back to base early enough for some relaxation time.
2. We’re not following a daily guide – this time it’s the old faithful ordnance survey map + a whizzy new OS app.  This way we can adjust the distance to our fancy.
3. We have a car with us this time – it does mean some forwards and backwards stuff but on a positive note means no rucksack carrying (hurrah) or paying out the £25 per day for luggage transfer.
4. Rather than move accommodation every day, we’ll be staying in a central area for 3,4 or 5 days and use the car/bus/train to ferry us around to starting and finishing points.  We’ll still be walking most days but we’ll actually be able to unpack and feel a little settled.

So lots of new ideas …. let’s see how it all pans out.  And let’s see how far we get.  Aiming to be away for 3 – 4 weeks.

Day 1  Seacombe to Meols

Drove through the Kingsway tunnel, leaving Liverpool behind and made our way to The Wirral.  We planned to walk about 5 miles today as Steve was suffering a little with aches in his knees and hips after his half marathon yesterday – well having achieved 13 miles in 1:52 he did deserve some consideration! As it happened we walked for 8 miles – but it was a pretty easy stretch by anyone’s standards – promenade, no hills, perfect weather – that’s my kind of coastal walking!

Not the most scenic of routes but some interesting industrial views across the Mersey, reminders of days gone by and reinvented docklands.  Some stunning houses nonetheless – huge – I imagine you get a lot for your money here.

When we decided to call it a day, we managed to find our way back to the car via two buses … then drove to our airbnb in Bebington.  What a find.  We are here for 5 nights and it’s a fascinating house in the Port Sunlight village.  The village was built to accommodate workers in its soap factory, it’s amazingly pretty, all Grade II listed buildings.  James, our airbnb host, has renovated this house to a high standard and it has lots of interesting Port Sunlight memorabilia.

Day 2   Meols to Thurstaston

A gorgeous sunny day to be setting out for a walk (what a change to last summer!!)  A drive followed by a train ride took us back to Meols where we finished off yesterday.  We started off on more promenade paths – bliss!  We admired the picturesque views of wind turbines against the blue sky.

We took up the alternative coastal path route which was along the sands – didn’t seem much risk of the tide coming in – you needed binoculars to spot the sea!   We said it was like walking in the desert, miles of sand and the sun burning down – no camels though!

We ventured seaward to take a closer glimpse at Hilibre Islands situated at the mouth of the Dee Estuary – we didn’t go all the way as the sand looked to be getting a little boggy and we didn’t know enough about the tides.

We walked on past Hoylake and its magnificent golf course and into West Kirby where we stopped for a picnic lunch.  We had parked the car here but decided to walk on as it was still earlyish and our feet and joints weren’t yet worn out.  We’d had a little look around West Kirby earlier – seems to be a beautiful town, might have to venture back for a little retail therapy.  Felt so at home here as it’s sort of my namesake – the mouth of the Dee Estuary, we passed the Dee Hotel (interestingly a Wetherspoons) and we parked in Dee Lane – well I’m not likely to find a town called Deirdre am I !?

So on we walked and after some more promenade and sand we actually reached a more typical coastal path – it took us through woods (with a few little hills) and a disused railway line still with some pretty coastal views.  We made it as far as Thurstaston before we called it a day – just 6 miles today.

Got back to base in good time, got stuck into this blog and guess what …. we’re now going for a run!!

Sunday 8th April 2018

A leisurely morning followed by an afternoon/evening in Galle. Another fascinating trip on the rickety train – discovered these are the original trains introduced by the Brits during colonisation in 1860s – I’m all for vintage! On our walk to the station we spotted a whole family of peacocks – Mum, Dad and the kids, so sweet. I had stupidly asked the question that morning about ‘snakes’ – to be informed that oh yes, there would be pythons, cobras and vipers in the fields surrounding the hotel – why oh why did I ask!? No unfortunate incidents however, just a beautiful walk as always and chatting to the local people who show so much interest in what you are doing.

Ticket office was empty when we arrived at the station (pretty remote place) but the ticket master turned up eventually, as did the train.

So, an afternoon of cricket was planned … with the compromise of a bit of shopping later! We made our way to the International Cricket ground – it does the job but it’s not quite on the scale of the MCG or Lords! It was also a completely different game than was advertised – it was in fact the English academy team playing the young Sri Lankans. We stayed and watched for a couple of hours, and Steve got his fix – our lads were so bulky in comparison to the lean frames of the home players!

After that we had an interesting walk around the fort area and into the old part of the city where there are some fabulous shops – too pricey for us pensioners however! Just love the sense of colonial history in this part though.

We wandered on through the streets to the waterfront which is so pretty to walk along – spotted the perfect roof top bar to stop and have a sundowner – once inside it was all a little worn and dusty and the stairs had seen better days. We found ourselves a table and bench on the rooftop perfectly placed for the sunset view … so now it was just about ordering the G&Ts – only to discover that it was a ‘no alcohol’ establishment – so lime soda and chocolate milk shake it was!

And then it was off to find somewhere for dinner – a fair few restaurants to choose from. It had been an incredibly hot day and we were beginning to feel a bit weary – we both found that we didn’t have an enormous appetite but fancied something light with a glass or two of wine. Now, we really don’t have a drink problem but the first 4 restaurants we tried were ‘alcohol free’ – what was going on? Take note any friends who are coming out for the cricket in November! We did find perfection in the end – The Galle Fort Hotel – beautiful dinner, beautiful wine, beautiful location, first-class service – a real treat.

We had arranged for Roisin, our tuk tuk man, to pick us up at 9.00am – we enjoyed a leisurely 30 minute drive back to base.

Monday 9th April 2018

The last full day of our trip – Steve got up at some crazy time of the morning to ‘endure’ his final run in these extreme temperatures. I got up to break the back of the sorting and packing. As always, a delicious breakfast cooked and served by Monty and Azi and then we headed out for our final beach day. We chose to go to Turtle Beach which, although busy, at least you can swim without being dragged out to sea or battered against the rocks! Lots of activity too with 3 regular visiting turtles during the day.

After a spot of lunch and some last minute shopping we headed back to the hotel to finalise the packing – cramming 6 months worth of souvenirs and dirty washing into our overstretched suitcases! Found a little time to chill out in the pool … and reflected together on the amazing adventure we had had – both agreed that the memories we had gathered would carry us through the chilly UK weather we were about to face. We were so excited about going home anyway – longing to see family and friends after all this time.

A final meal out at our favourite beach restaurant- Chill Space – some delicious seafood and a bottle of their finest wine (well actually, the only wine on their list … simply entitled ‘red wine!’ And our last sunset.

Tuesday 10th April 2018

D-day had arrived, we were heading home. We’d slept well and were up early as leaving the hotel at 7.30am. Monty and Azi were up to prepare an early breakfast for us. I was feeling a little queasy – pre-flying nerves so settled for just some juice and toast, Steve opted for a cooked breakfast. We had built a fond relationship with these guys during our stay here and with excitement they presented us with a large platter of cooked vegetable and fruit concoction … in a sauce, proudly pointing out the sweet potato, cucumber, pineapple etc. We accepted it graciously but had to make our excuses in not being able to finish it – felt so bad about it. With hugs and teary eyes we said our goodbyes – even the Hotel Manager turned up early to work to say farewell.

The 2 hour car journey to the airport was a little hairy once again … we vibrated most of the way there, the driver explaining that the wheels needed balancing. And they spend so much time on their mobile phones while they’re speeding along the freeway and manoeuvring through tuk tuks, bikes and buses on the smaller roads.

The rest of the day was a breeze – checked in, no delays, 11 hour flight whizzed by – lots of food and drink supplied, four films watched, comfortable seats. And Tom came to meet us at Heathrow – the warmest of hugs …. and chatter all the way back to MK. More lovely big hugs from Alice, Caroline, Emma, John and Marc – lots more talking, laughing and ‘bubbles’ – SO good to be home. ❤️

We’re going to enjoy a few weeks at home, in our own bed! Steve’s got a marathon to train for too. And then we’ll be planning the next stage of our adventure – it won’t be quite on the same scale but there’s a lot of life to explore and memories to build. But for now, a lot of hellos and cuppa times to catch up on … oh – and all that washing!! 😘

This is Kevin, our hotel dog. He’s really friendly and loves to wag his tail … he’s a bit like Harry Enfield’s teenager character Kevin – skulking around the place and moving from one shaded area to another to sleep. Not sure if that’s how they spell his name but that’s definitely what it sounds like!

Thursday 5th April 2018

Not so much happening today … spent the day at the hotel – caught up on blogging. A cloudy day with the most incredible thunder and lightening storm in the afternoon. Love it when these little visitors come to say hello though.

Did manage to drag ourselves out for an early dinner at Chill Space – and an early night.

Friday 6th April 2018

Decided to set out on a local walk this morning … first thing it was a little cooler than usual …. that quickly changed though! We turned a different way to our usual walk and discovered lots more villages, all with friendly faces coming out to say hello and ask us where we were going. I’m not sure they understand the concept of ‘going for a walk’ – must be an English thing! So lovely to see real life happening – the ladies in their pretty colourful dresses and flip flops, young boys wobbling around on bikes they will grow into, old men with weathered faces and sunken eyes balancing gracefully on their rusty bikes, oh so many shopkeepers waiting patiently for customers … all seemingly selling the same goods – bananas, coconuts, chillies, crisps, biscuits, fizzy drinks and colourful brooms!

They are beginning to prepare for their New Year celebrations here in Sri Lanka, today is the children’s last day of school before a 3 week holiday. We passed some celebrations going on in a school field.

We made our way to the beach area and down to where the major fishing activity takes place … and to the fish market area (by this time of day it was all clear and scrubbed clean – still smelt fishy though). A few fisherman mending their nets but not a lot of life other than that. Well, there was one old boy who tried to paddle across where the lagoon enters the sea, delicately holding up his sarong … only to lose his footing and end up entirely submerged! We had to suppress our giggles!

We walked for about 5 miles in all …. not bad in this heat … always the best way to discover the local community.

On some recommendations, we decided to eat out at ‘The Asian Jewel’ – often referred to as the English restaurant as owned by Mr. Dale who is English. Our favourite tuk tuk driver came to transport us there – it was a fair old drive, completely off the beaten track, up and down hills and bumpy lanes – but it was a fabulous restaurant/hotel, the waiters were charming and the food first class. I’m ashamed to admit that I had shepherd’s pie – I was so excited when I saw it on the menu … and it was every bit as delicious as I had hoped it would be – gravy and everything.

Saturday 7th April 2018

Went out on another ‘long’ tuk tuk trip today – up into the rainforest area, predominantly to see the Andahelenadola Falls. Once again the journey took twice as long as we imagined – through a number of towns and villages, dodging in and out of scooters, trucks and buses as we went – always an adventure! Roisin was driving us so we knew we were in good hands … and he stopped to buy bananas on the way for feeding the monkeys. We feel our hotel in is a rainforest area but by comparison the green lush appearance of this area is on another level. On the way we passed tea plantations, rubber plantations and cinnamon forests. This falls is not yet on the main tourism trail so the simplicity of it made it all the more magical.

Once parked up, Roisin escorted us on the walk through the rainforest – started off on some fairly rugged lanes with a few boulders and then it got much more climby! We traipsed along steep paths of exposed tree roots, waded through shallow rivers – I had to be yanked up occasionally – I was being pretty brave at this point. Eventually we got to the waterfall and it was stunning, the water so clear and fresh.

But it didn’t end there, Roisin suggested we climb up to the top of the waterfall and cross over it as there was a fresh pool for swimming at the top. So, with some coaxing for me, off we set. It was like being back on the South West Coastal Path all over again – climbing up huge rocks, some slippery, not being able to look at the drop below, realising I have a terrible sense of balance. But we did it, and it was great to see the ‘watering hole’ at the top being used by local families – swimming, jumping, splashing … and they were happy for us to look on.

We’d been joined by monkeys on the way up too … and they loved the bananas!

So, now it was all about getting down … this is the bit I really dreaded! With two strong men to guide me, I inched my way along, resorting to sitting on my bottom from time to time … helps with the height thing. By the time we got to the base of the waterfall the worst of it was over. Just a little bit more climbing down in places and a couple of rivers to cross. And of course, on the very last rock on the very last river, what did I do? Yes, it was slippery and I fell off onto my bottom in the water, grazing my leg in the process … not to mention wounding my pride! Well, it gave us all a good laugh 😂

We got back to where the tuk tuk was parked and ordered some orange juice from the sole cafe in the area. We absolutely love the orange juice they serve in our hotel – pure orange … but as for this one, well, the only resemblance to orange was the colour …. it was a watery and salty substance, so hard to drink enough of it not to feel rude. They also provided us with some snacks – vegetable samosas and pancakes filled with honey and coconut – now they WERE delicious.

After our little spot of lunch we hit the road …. and as we were leaving the rainforest, guess what, it rained!! Not only did it rain, it poured and then poured some more … all with a thunder and lightning storm …. and this lasted ALL the way home. At times poor Roisin was struggling to see out of the windscreen, with its one wiper and a misting up problem … and then we drove through a massive puddle and it was like we were underwater. I freaked!! I kept ‘suggesting’ we stop for a while but I was outvoted – so I just had to resort to keeping my eyes closed and holding on for grim death. So relieved to get home.

Finished off the day with a home-cooked curry by our chef, Monty – Sri Lankan chicken curry, Dahl, vegetable curry, rice and poppadoms – all washed down with some chilled Sav Blanc – perfect. With the lovely Azi keeping us company – he loves a chat.

Only a couple more days of our amazing trip left …. where did that time go!? 🤔

Tuesday 3rd April 2018

A leisurely day today … you need them now and again … a bit of admin, a bit of housekeeping – it’s not all holiday you know! Steve had got up early and run 6 miles – I don’t know what my excuse was – I just felt like being a bit lazy. We did walk to the local shops and climbed up 100 or so stairs to visit the temple on the way. Lovely to pass the school and see all the children in their pristine white uniforms – boys and girls – love to know what washing powder the Mums use here – they’re gleaming! We stopped off to see our new friend, Sunil, and have a chinwag and a very sour lime soda (it was us that insisted on no sugar). I had a 20 minute walk along the beach while we were there … and the sand is very soft even at the water edge … so I did get some exercise in.

But the rest of the day we just stretched out on the sun loungers and took occasional dips in the pool – bliss. We had friendly visits from iguanas, kingfishers, blizzard squirrels … and even a monkey came to hang out.

We did manage to get dolled up and take ourselves out for the evening – went to another beach restaurant called ‘Mamas’ – we had seen a flyer advertising live music. Good restaurant – I had a delicious Chicken Curry – and the service was excellent. There was live music, very loud live music (there’s no pleasing us grumpy old gits!) and it was a bit ‘family entertainment’ – Mums and children bopping away on the dance floor. We moved on to another beachfront bar for a swiftie before retiring to home.

Wednesday 4th April 2018

Now today we did get out and about (after a lay in and a late breakfast – well, we are retired)! Our tuk tuk picked us up at 11.00am – we have a lovely driver called Roisin, very amiable. Most drivers we have had here are so humble compared to other parts of the world – they’re almost embarrassed in asking you for money and prefer to undercharge rather than rip you off – it’s so refreshing. We were off to find a lagoon safari … but stopping at places of interest along the way.

1st stop: A temple in the sea. Didn’t find out too much about it but we stopped for a photo opportunity anyway!

2nd stop: The Tsunami temple – a magnificent Buddha statue was erected following the Boxing Day 2004 disaster, as a memorial to the over 35,000 Sri Lankans killed. It is the height of the 2nd wave that caused so much devastation. It was a humbling to visit the memorial as well as our next stop …. 3rd Stop: The Tsunami Photo museum. A collection of photos and posters have been thoughtfully mounted on the walls of a house that was badly damaged by the Tsunami. We met the lady whose house it is … and she has many sad stories to tell. Such graphic photos – a truly sombre and sobering experience.

4th stop: Turtle Farm – in exchange for a ‘donation’ we were shown around this turtle conservation project. It was a simple set up but we believed it to be genuine … the guide mentioned that they buy the eggs (we weren’t sure about the ethics of that one! – maybe you could enlighten us Caitlin?). They had a pool for the disabled turtles (missing limbs) and a pool for the newborns – they return the male ones to the sea after a few days but the female ones are kept for 2 years. They are in separate pools according to their types as some (Hawksbill in particular) are none too friendly.

5th and final stop: The Lagoon safari. For some reason, Steve and I got a whole boat to ourselves, whereas others we passed were packed out. We had a cheery little boat driver … but he looked about 12. Having been told we might see crocodiles in the lagoon I would have preferred a little more experience! But he did us proud, no complaints. He manoeuvred us steadily around the lagoon and through mangrove swamps, pointing out wildlife – cormorants, jellyfish, monkeys. We moored up at Cinnamon island where we were taken to a demonstration of cinnamon production … with retail opportunities! We also moored up so that we could visit a Buddhist temple and had a special blessing and white cotton bracelet tied on by a Buddhist monk …. more donation opportunities! Steve even got the chance to steer the boat and be ‘captain’ … all boys stuff!

And then we ventured out on our tuk tuk journey home – every journey’s an adventure – busy shopping areas, stunning beach views, local markets … cows wandering in front of you! And then, for over a mile, we had to pick our way through chaos as we faced a political demonstration in motorcade form head on – the noise was tremendous – young people demonstrating to out the current Prime Minister.

Luckily, after all that exertion, we had booked to have dinner at the hotel tonight – and they provided a feast of lobster and prawns with rice, potatoes and salad, with our BYO wine. The staff here are so wonderful and love to entertain – Monty is the chef and the gorgeously smiley Azi literally waits on us hand and foot. A perfectly chilled end to magnificently packed day.

1st April 2018

So today’s not only April Fool’s Day but Easter Sunday as well. I don’t recall that combination before but I guess it happens from time to time.

We had all planned to meet up for a late breakfast/early lunch at the Citrus Hotel – Steve and I, Anne, Caroline, Linda and the boys. Anne and Nathan were a little later joining us as Nathan had been late snoozing and then had a pre-breakfast feast of Easter eggs!! And bless her, Anne arrived with Easter pressies all round – lovely goodie bags of chocolates – such a treat. Steve’s pressie was a fabulous M&S bar of chocolate in a Union Jack wrapper – this was devoured pretty quickly … he was very good at sharing though!! As we were going to spend a couple of hours on the beach after we had eaten, we asked the waiters if we could store our chocolate in their fridge. They were more than willing to do so. So willing that in fact when we retrieved them some hours later, half of our treats were missing …. either some of the waiters were a little light-fingered or they genuinely thought we had given them gifts!!

We had to say our first goodbye at this point as Caroline was catching an afternoon flight to Bahrain. We’re hoping to meet up when Caroline next visits her Mum in Woburn Sands.

Having discovered the ‘rocks’ earlier in the week, today we sensibly moved further up the beach where there were a number of other swimmers. Anne and Steve headed in first – the waves were incredibly strong so Linda and I held back a bit. The current still had a fair old pull too especially dragging you out as the waves went back. Poor old Anne got caught with that, found herself suddenly out of her depth and struggling to beat the current to get back in – she’s a strong swimmer though so managed it … only to get tossed about in the shallower waves a few times in her attempt to stand up. It’s not exactly a family-friendly coastline in terms of swimming.

All decided to go home for a freshen up, Steve and I took a long walk home along the beach and spotted some interesting new eating places. Reserved a table at The Moonbeam restaurant – beautiful seafood platters. We all met there later … the setting was gorgeous and the food superb but the service was diabolical … one course and we were there over 3 hours! And rude waiters too – we went to town on Trip Advisor.

Steve and I walked home as it was late by this time and our tuk tuk rank had gone to bed. As we wound our way down the dark village lanes we seem to set off every dog in the neighbourhood barking …. and there are lots of dogs – sorry people of Catakarawatta!!

Monday 2nd April 2018

Had a bit of a lie in (well, I did … Steve had an early run up to the Fish Market) and then we met up with the gang at Turtle Beach, so named as it has some very large turtles that swim into the shallows. Theyr’e amazing – clearly so used to people, children swim along with them and they enjoy being fed with seagrass.

The beach here is a little bay so much calmer for swimming … and there is a coral reef for snorkelling – quite a contrast to the tempestuous seas on the main beach.

And now more goodbyes as Linda and Aiden were flying back to Dubai early evening – it’s been so fabulous meeting them.

So that left the ‘Fab Four’ – we arranged to meet later at Chill Space, another beachside restaurant. I managed a great party piece on arrival – a complete tumble off the plastic chair into the sand – oh so elegant!! Love this restaurant though – a great vibe as they say!

And yet more goodbyes – Anne and Nathan returning home to Dubai in the early hours of the morning …. it’s been amazing having these few days together … an incredible coincidence that we had independently booked to come to the same area of Sri Lanka at the same time. Great minds … and all that!!