Walking into my home county of Dorset

Thursday 27th September 2018

We set out from our Airbnb in Seaton having received some local advice from our lovely host Anna.  Today’s walk was from Seaton to Lyme Regis and Anna had advised us that there was an initial climb but from thereon an enjoyable walk.  The Coastal Path guide had indicated a moderate walk so our screaming muscles from yesterday breathed a sigh of relief.  It was half the distance too.  Luxury.

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Eager to start our ‘moderate’ walk from Seaton to Lyme Regis

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Seaton beach

And the advice we had received turned out to be fairly accurate.  Still enough hills, steps and uneven terrain to make it interesting but, particularly in contrast to yesterday, it felt manageable.  Due to coastal landslides in this area, the path actually took us through woodland for most of the day, with occasional glimpses of the sea.  Following yesterday’s clonk on the head, an alteration to our observation techniques were required.  We now have learnt to apply up and down scanning simultaneously – looking out for protruding tree roots as well as those low hanging ‘out to get you’ branches!  No further head grazes today!  It was a pretty walk through rich vegetation, quite wet underfoot at times but we did miss having the sea views.

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We had occasional glimpses of the sea

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Lots of funghi spotted

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A mile or so outside of Lyme Regis, a local person had very kindly left a basket of home-grown apples hanging from the Coast Path sign.  So, naturally we helped ourselves to one and they were delicious.  Just a little way on I noticed a old lady in a long skirt lurking in the woods above us – I began to imagine a Snow White scenario … but I kept on munching and lived to tell the tale!

There were a fair few people out on the path again today, all enjoying the sunshine I guess.  We had a bit of a Tortoise and the Hare situation with a group of 3 young Eastern European chaps – they overtook us when we’d stopped for a rest and then we caught them up but stopped so they could carry on ahead.  Then we caught them up again and overtook them this time, while they were resting ….  and we didn’t see them again.  They were however carrying quite sizeable rucksacks but nevertheless it was still a clear win for the ‘oldies.’

So we completed the walk in 3 and a half hours and were able to enjoy some time in Lyme Regis – love this town …. and of course this is where the path enters my home county of Dorset.  Known as the Pearl of Dorset, Lyme Regis is famous for its Cobb and harbour as well as the literary connections – French Lieutenant’s Woman and Jane Austen’s ‘Persuasion.’

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At the end of the Cobb         “Oi Meryl, lend me your cape!”

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Love the town of Lyme Regis in Dorset – I’m on my way to Weymouth!

So spent a relaxing couple of hours lounging on the beach – tried to picnic on sandwiches but were swooped on from all sides by pesky seagulls – Steve won the battle but I gave up on mine!  Had a lovely paddle and would loved to have swum, maybe tomorrow.

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Steve’s most favourite position of all

Finished the afternoon with a scrumptious ice-cream (shielded from the ever-hungry seagulls) before a climb up an incredibly steep hill to the bus stop – beautiful ride back to Seaton.

A great day.  Planning a visit to a micro-pub now to round things off!

Back to Beer …

As coastal path walks go, today was TOUGH.  We walked from Sidmouth to Seaton – about 12 miles in total … but what a 12 miles!!  When we had finished I looked at the guide and it said challenging /severe – strenuous – that was pretty accurate.  But we had another glorious day weather-wise and were truly rewarded with the scenery on this magnificent stretch of coastline.  The colours were so vivid against the backdrops of the pretty seaside towns that it felt like being on the continent – we have been incredibly lucky.

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Leaving Sidmouth – facing the first of MANY hills

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But seriously the hills today were something else – huge climbs and hundreds of steps going up and going down – sometimes it takes all your will to carry on.  I wish they could be kinder in their step design too – sometimes there’s such a drop that I fear my knee won’t take the impact on landing!

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Stairway to heaven …

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Always another hill to face

Today’s funny incident:  we came to the rescue of some nervous walkers who had ground to a halt as there were cows on the path.  They had heard stories of people being killed by cows, especially when there were calves amongst them, which there were.  Steve stepped up the mark and shooed the cows off the path and so clearing the way – I was so proud of him, even though I was cowering (do you get that?) at his side.

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After 3 hours of torturous walking we managed to stop for a bite to eat at ‘The Sea Shanty Cafe’ in Branscombe – overlooking the beautiful beach.  Only a quick stop though as we had to get on, not quite knowing how long today’s trek was going to take.  While we ate lunch we couldn’t help but glance up at the monumental hill in front of us.

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Lunching beside Branscombe Beach

So replenished, we made our way up and up once again, facing some tricky paths through woodland.  I heard a cry out from up ahead as Steve managed to walk into an overhanging tree branch – both head and pride wounded …. there had been no warning that a low hanging branch would be there!!

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We soldiered on and next found ourselves walking into the historical fishing village of Beer.  Now, there is some history here for me …. the last time I was here was many moons ago.  I had been at a Girl Guide Camp in Dartmoor and the day we were leaving I was taken ill – we were never quite sure whether it was the mouldy jam sandwiches or overdoing the roundabout and swing activities in the park (maybe a combination of both!) – but I was not fit to travel on the coach home with the others.  So I was taken to the Mum’s house of our Guide Captain who lived in Beer – a name I never forgot.  Funny that, how my past should be connected to an alcoholic beverage!

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Walking into Beer

Then after more hills and the final stretch of walking on pebbles we arrived in Sunny Seaton, where we rewarded ourselves with lashings of tea.

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We walked the length of this beach on the sloping pebbles!

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Beautifully sunny Seaton

So one of the harder days today – but hard to resist more when you see such beauty.  Now recovering with tea and chocolate – this is the life!!

 

 

 

A day for closure …

25th September 2018

A short walk had been planned for today but … best laid plans and all that … turned out to be quite a bit longer due to closures.

We parked up in Sidmouth and caught a bus back to our start at Budleigh Salterton.  However, there were road closures and the bus had to drop us off 3 miles out of the town – so we had these extra miles tagged onto the day’s trek.  A pleasant walk into town though, at this stage we were full of positivity – the sun was shining, the sky was blue – what’s an extra 3 miles – it’s just a Parkrun!!

Stopped to have a bite to eat in town and then headed off to find the coastal path – but hey ho another closure – this time the coastal path had been closed due to environmental studies … so an alternative route had been provided causing us at least another 2 miles add on!!  It just wasn’t our day … but we just laughed it off and put our best foot forward.

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Leaving the pretty seaside town of Budleigh Salterton

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Looking back over Budleigh Salterton once we finally got onto the coastal path

It actually was an enjoyable walk – coastal views to die for, stunning countryside for miles, some pretty woodland stretches – plenty of ‘Sound of Music’ rolling hills but we mostly seemed to skirt around the bottom of them which was such a treat.  There were more walkers than usual  on the path today and I suggested that perhaps this was because this section didn’t seem too stretching.  And we actually laughed about ‘talking too soon!’

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We seriously thought that we were nearing Sidmouth when, out of the blue, they stuck not one but two whopping great hills in our way, no kindly path around, just straight to the top …. you know, the ones where you look up and it seems to be leading into the clouds.  Even after the 8 or so miles we’d done, Steve still chooses to get up these slopes at breakneck speed, just to get it over and done with.  Unfortunately, my legs and lungs guide me to a slower pace … but at the same time I’m no slouch!  I use differing techniques to get me up there … look at the ground, look up, chest open to aid breathing, swing my arms, sing songs, dream of being at the top!!  I usually look up to see Steve’s wiggling bottom getting further and further away … and it entices me on!!

Anyway, we finally conquered all that the path required and found ourselves enjoying a long downhill stroll into another gorgeous seaside town – Sidmouth.

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Walking into Sidmouth

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Sidmouth seafront

So, on my subject theme of ‘closures’ …. was today ‘Closure’ for me in terms of a pathological fear I suffer with?  Yes, snakes!!  Today I saw my first UK snake – it slithered across my path with gay abandon.  I think it was a grass snake but I’m no expert.  So that’s my 3rd snake in total – a water snake in Thailand, a Whip snake in Tasmania and now today.  And all they do is just slither away as people say!  So maybe I’m feeling cured …. well, let’s see.

Memory ‘lanes’…

24th September 2018

We decided to take a day off coastal walking today and have a little explore of this beautiful area we find ourselves in.  Dartmoor National Park is on our doorstep so after a few little ‘housekeeping chores’ and an interesting viewing of Val’s workshop, we headed off in the car.

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First stop – the pretty town of Ashburton

From Ashburton we drove to Buckfast Abbey and this was an amazing trip down memory lane for me as I used to sing in the Abbey each year with my School Choir.  I can remember those coach trips down being fiercely guarded at all times by the nuns and having to be on our best behaviour representing our school – and having to sing perfectly too.   I so clearly remembered the stunning stained glass window at the rear of the abbey – it was just as remarkable as my childhood memory recalled.

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Buckfast Abbey

From there we drove across the moors – following signposted instructions to be ‘moor careful’ due to animals crossing.  Fabulously scenic with the rolling heathland and the sheep, cows and ponies ambling around and yes, crossing the roads at their will … we even came across another peacock crossing our path.

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We then found an outward bound centre that Steve had visited some forty years ago.  When he was a young chap in his early twenties he worked for Thomson local newspapers and somehow got selected to accompany a group of young ‘newspaper boys’ on an incentive week.  So he was delighted to find the place and recall memories of the high ropes, canoeing, swimming, pot-holing, abseiling and bridge jumping activities that he and the boys were subjected to.  We had a beautiful walk through the woodland there and enjoyed a picnic in the grounds.

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Just can’t imagine ‘risk assessments’ allowing you to encourage children to jump off this bridge into the river anymore!

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And onward from there we managed to find ourselves down some extremely narrow country lanes.  I love this rustic life but getting from place to place can be quite daunting.  The GPS insists on taking us along the narrowest and hedge-scraping of roads.  Sometimes it’s like you’re tunnelling through undergrowth – God knows what you do if you meet an oncoming car – there certainly must be some horrendous stand-offs.  But somehow it all seems to work and, despite keeping my eyes closed and clinging onto to everything around me, I survived!

Stopped for afternoon tea at Widecombe-on-the-Moor then home to our lovely Airbnb for our last night here.  And, while we’d been busy out touring the countryside, Val had been busy in her workshop making me the most fabulous necklace, which I will be saving to wear at my niece’s wedding in February.

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My beautiful new necklace cleverly crafted by Val Wilkie

All in all, a fabulous day in this absolutely beautiful part of the country.  I have a strong suspicion we will return to these parts many times.

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The red cliffs of South Devon

23rd September 2018

Today we started our walk from Exmouth.  We declined to take the ferry from Starcross to Exmouth on the grounds that today’s weather was forecast to be atrocious – imagining a choppy crossing we wisely chose to drive around to our starting point instead.  On leaving the car I was fully kitted out with thermals, waterproofs, gloves, hat and a neckscarf – it was bitter but I was ready for whatever it threw at me!!

Our first little funny sighting was a seagull proudly flying in with his catch – a starfish – which he proceeded to play with on the sea wall.  Simple amusements!

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The first part of the walk was truly pleasurable, lots of promenade walking and, being a Sunday, it was great to see so many people about.  And, by the time we’d reached the end of Exmouth seafront, the sun was out in full force.  So, the layers started to be removed – after all those warnings, it was a magnificent day!  We even stopped for ice-cream.

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Exmouth beach

At Orcombe Red Rocks we joined the Jurassic Coastline with its striking red cliffs.  Google tells me that these were formed in a baking desert some 240 million years ago.  Note to self:  must learn more about these geological periods and dinosaurs etc. – need to seek tuition from the younger members of the family!

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Love this photo – vibrant red cliffs in the foreground and the white Dorset cliffs in the background (I’m getting near my hometown) x

Nothing too adventurous happened today – just a pleasant walk – beaches, hills, fields, woodland, through holiday parks (the coastal path even took us right through a beer garden).  We had blue skies most of the day with a crisp autumnal feel.  Absolutely loved it – can recommend this walk from Exmouth, passing through Sandy Bay and into the pretty coastal town of Budleigh Salterton.  By the end of the trek we were down to T-shirts and carrying all the excess layers.  So pleased we didn’t get frightened off by those weather forecasters.

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Budleigh Salterton

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Wet, wet, wet …. but fabulously flat (mostly)

Saturday 22nd September 2018

What a difference a day makes!  Yesterday blue skies, today grey, miserable and cold – and an abundance of rain.

Nevertheless, we were up and out early to drive to Exeter for the Parkrun.  All eager to stretch out our weary legs after yesterday’s re-introduction to coastal hill walking.  However, on arrival at the start point and waiting in the driving cold rain, I felt a desperate need to use the toilet, deciding I would not manage a 5k run without a ‘visit.’  So off I jogged & walked to the nearest public conveniences, having to cross over to the other side of the quay, a fair trek.  Devastatingly, by the time I got back, the run had started without me – oh well, there’s always next week.  Steve, despite knee problems, completed another tourism Parkrun.

We planned a reverse day today, so parked up at Teignmouth station and caught the train to Starcross from where we walked back through Dawlish Warren, Dawlish and Holcombe into Teignmouth.

We had yet to eat, so after our train journey, we ventured out onto the streets of Starcross to look for a bacon butty – alas, not a cafe in sight.  It was almost 2 miles of trudging along a busy road (strange coastal path) before we stumbled across a bakery with extremely tasty offerings.  The rain had been chucking it down and deep puddles  formed in the roadside gutters.  As cars sped past us we were engulfed in tidal waves, only adding to our misery.  Steve (in true Victor Meldrew style) was adamant that they were doing it on purpose!   So it was with great delight that we found temporary refuge in the warm bakery and tucked into some hearty fayre.

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Not the most pleasant of days!

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Steve’s breakfast – called a “Gut Buster”

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As we sat and ate breakfast, a peacock strolled across the road … why did the peacock cross the road!!??

The coastal path finally took us to the ‘actual coast’ just past Dawlish – the sea was now in sight.  In fact, from there for the rest of the walk we found ourselves walking on the sea wall.  And boy, was there a drop at the side … and no railings.  I made sure I tucked myself well into the inside wall and Steve gallantly walked by my side.  The wall was wide at parts and more narrow at others, but you just had to focus on the task in hand.  I had to stop thinking about those “batten down your hatches” forecasts that had been flying around and just keep going.  As waves leapt over the sea wall it was also getting pretty wet under foot, in fact in places we were wading through water – so soggy feet and socks it was for the rest of the journey.

And literally six foot to our right, trains were whizzing by at great speeds – quite spectacular.  It was in Dawlish a few years back that the sea wall and train track collapsed during winter storms – luckily today it all held together!

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Ambling along beside high speed inter-city trains – beautiful red sandstone cliffs on the right.

Between Dawlish and Teignmouth we did have to tackle a couple of sizeable hills – we were never going to get off scot-free the whole day!  Gave us something else to grumble about!!

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And finally two little drowned rats reached Teignmouth – just about 8 miles in 3 and a half hours.

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Steve’s summary of the day …. “well as Coastal Walks go, not the most spectacular of days!”

But tomorrow, you know it, we’ll be back for more!

We’re back on the path …

Last year we didn’t get to finish the glorious South West Coastal Path so here we are on it again … and so also, back to blogging.

We did a little bit of the Wales coastal path earlier in the year but other than that we’ve had quite a gap – sorting out some family matters, enjoying the extraordinary summer sunshine and also, setting the house and ourselves up for airbnb guests.  All that sorted, we’re now ready to hit the open road again.  And this time around we’re squeezing in 9 days of walking before another little overseas trip – we plan to get as far as Abbotsbury in Dorset which means we will have to return to complete the path at a later date.

Yesterday we drove down from Milton Keynes in howling winds and rain, reaching our destination in Bishopsteignton in just over 3 and a half hours.  We have checked into the most homely airbnb in this picturesque village and will be here for 5 nights with our fabulous hosts Val and Elaine.  We couldn’t possibly feel more at home.  We were welcomed with tea and homemade cakes and a lovely chat.  They are two extremely creative ladies, and they disappear into their craft rooms where marvellous items evolve – pottery, glasswork, jewellery and quilting – the most wonderful exhibits are displayed around the house.

After a perfect night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast spread, lovingly laid out by Val, we drove into Teignmouth and parked up.  From here we caught the bus to Babbacombe which is the point we reached last year.  We love it on the Downs there, so much so that we stopped for coffee before starting on today’s trek – some might call it delaying tactics!!

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Our start of the day coffee stop! This easier approach is definitely the way to go!

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Off we go again!

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Beautiful Oddicombe Beach

So, walking boots and socks comfortably placed, walking pole in hand, wee rucksack sorted with water, waterproofs, hats, plasters, mints …. all the essentials …  off we eagerly set.  It seemed funny to be looking out for those acorn coastal path signs again.  It wasn’t long before we started facing some pretty steep ascents and descents, just as the guide had promised.  We had stunning sea views most of the way though and the weather was beautiful – bright and breezy.  Maybe a little more than breezy at points – nearly got windswept down one particular hill – had to hang on to Steve’s hand to save us both flying away!

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We just love hills!! And Steve is always miles ahead of me!!

Along the route today the paths were frequently lined with blueberry and blackberry bushes, as well as something of the ‘red berry’ variety which we don’t quite know the name of.  And with today’s winds there was plenty of windfall – so  we found ourselves magically walking along a trail of colourful sweet beads of colour – blue, red and black.

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Blueberries everywhere

There were several places today that offered an ‘alternative route’ to the coastal path and we just knew that alternative would be flatter.  But could we take those alternatives?  Oh no!!  Must be the catholic in me!!  So tempting though, knowing you would end up in exactly the same place.  We might have missed some of the spectacular views however.

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A house with a view

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We’ve cut our daily walking schedule right down this year so it was just over 3 hours of walking, covering 7 miles and we sauntered down through woodland into the pretty village of Shaldon.  Stopped off for some lunch at the Clipper Cafe (definitely recommend) before making our way to the ferry for a ‘choppy’ crossing over to Teignmouth.  As we disembarked, the ferryman indicated that this would be the last crossing of the day due to the high winds brewing – phew!!

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Shaldon in the foreground and Teignmouth across the water

This easier approach to our walking day meant that we had plenty of spare time to explore Teignmouth in the afternoon – gorgeous town centre, interesting shops and cafes – we had a sunny stroll along the esplanade and visited the local museum too.

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The ferry from Shaldon

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Getting off the ferry in Teignmouth – getting choppy

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So an amazing first day back on the path.  Steve happily settling into his grumbling about the mileage signs and his Strava not registering … oh happy days.

 

 

 

 

Castles, bridges and bird-watching

Our last airbnb stop had extremely limited internet service and so this is a catch up of our last five days.  

Tuesday 5th June 2018

Another back to front walk today – we travelled by bus to Bangor and walked back from there to Llanfairfechan (getting to love this place, even pronouncing the name with a roll of the tongue)!  We made the decision to start from Menai Bridge as this is where we were going to be relocating to tomorrow – thought it would keep things neat but as it turned out it added a little too much onto today’s trek – not our best day!!

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Starting off at Menai Bridge

To be honest I wasn’t really feeling it from the start today – I have an ongoing knee problem which is getting more painful each day + I have a ridiculously large blister on my big toe!  On top of this my stomach was in knots as Alice was taking her driving test this morning and I was waiting for the phone call, as it got later I began to suspect the worst – I had no idea what time the test was.  Being the helicopter parent that I am I wanted to be there doing it for her, taking on her anxiety!!  So it was great relief when the happy message came through that she had passed.  I did perk up a little then I must say …. and when I was struggling towards the end it was Alice’s success that kept me physically moving.

Some parts of the walk were absolutely beautiful today – a fair amount of woodland but coastal views too.  The coastal path goes quite a way inland in this area as the King of the Castle – Penrhyn Castle that is – does not allow ‘ramblers’ through his land (fair enough I guess).  What today’s walk did involve though was numerous sets of steep steps, up and down and a few big hills – so we were getting back into last year’s territory of strenuous walking.  Plus for a large part of it we were battling against a north easterly headwind.

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So why do it you may ask!!?  Oh we love it BUT today was just hard and it was too many miles for the mixture of terrains we had to cover.  When the path took us back to the actual coast we had to walk over pebble beaches and slippery seaweed rocks!  And the whole day we did not pass one cafe or pub – not even an ice-cream van!  We hadn’t taken lunch as it had not been our intention to walk so many miles.  By the time we hobbled (well it was mainly me hobbling!) into Llanfairfechan we had been walking for nearly 5 hours without a break.  So, not great, but at least Alice passed her driving test – yay!!!  We enjoyed our picnic lunch (which was waiting for us in the car) before heading back to our beautiful haven of an airbnb in Deganwy.

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Beautiful Llanfairfechan

And later, sitting on our balcony in glorious sunshine, enjoying a delicious dinner and wine, the world suddenly felt good again.  I had almost decided to not carry on with this mad project of ours …. but tomorrow’s another day!

Wednesday 6th June 2018

Today we had to leave our fabulous Deganwy airbnb – this has been our favourite stop so far!  Tony, the host, is just the most lovely man and he has a great big black fluffy Newfoundland dog called Max who is adorable.  We opted for a ‘no walking day’ today after yesterday’s misadventure … and so that we could have a leisurely transition to our new abode.   Steve started the day off with a little run as you do!

We spent a little time in Conwy before heading out to Menai, mooching around the castle and the shops.  The town is highly populated by the castle birds – jackdaws.

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Our trusty sat nav then guided us to our our final resting place for this little trip away.  The house was neatly tucked away in a tiny terrace but with amazing views over the Menai Bridge and Straits.  We were greeted by the formidable landlady, an ex-showgirl/teacher who was equipped with a particularly serious face and straightforward speech. We were informed of the house rules immediately and it turned out our bedroom had no views over the Menai Bridge because apparently we needed the bigger room … and it seems this was not to be questioned!!  It all became ‘a bridge too far!’

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Menai Bridge – a view from the house, but not from our bedroom!!

We unpacked our belongings for the last time anyway and then took ourselves out for the evening.  We’d decided to try our hand at bird-watching (is that what it’s come to!!?) and so joined a group of Bill Oddy types from the RSPB to walk around a nature reserve.  They were actually the most welcoming and friendly bunch of people and didn’t mind at all that we weren’t experienced twitchers – they enthused in sharing their sightings.  I was introduced to many new birds including redshank, black backed gull, lapwing and shelduck – oh yes, I think I may have the bug!

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The RSPB nature reserve in Conwy

Thursday 7th June 2018

Decided to have another crack at walking today –  a fresh start.  Caernarfon was our destination and it was to be 9 or 10 miles.  Turned out to be a fabulous walk – at the very start we had to walk across the Menai Bridge which is pretty high, managed to keep our nerve.  From then on it was all pretty straightforward, quite a bit of road walking but also coastal, woodland, open fields, villages, harbours – loved it.

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Y Felinheli

We had an interesting walk through Treborth Botanical Gardens and then later, whilst walking in dark woodland, we stumbled across a mausoleum – it would make an incredible setting for a horror film – we spooked ourselves out just walking past in the daylight.

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Spooky mausoleum

10 miles of steady walking brought us into the town of Caenarfon … and what a pretty town with its castle and busy square.

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Caernarfon Castle

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Caernarfon Square

In the evening we went out into Bangor for a meal and then onto a music venue called the Sky Room where we watched an amazing young Canadian band called Boxcar Boys – fantastic musicians.

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The Boxcar Boys (2 boys and 2 girls!)

Friday 8th June 2018

Still suffering a little with injury so decided to explore some of Anglesey by car today which was great.  Started off at Red Wharf Bay and then drove on to Beaumaris – another town, another castle.

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Beaumaris Castle

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Looking across from Beaumaris, Anglesey to the Welsh mainland

Saturday 9th June 2018

Felt surprisingly bright for a Saturday morning (no wine last night!) so set off almost-enthusiastically for the Parkrun.  It was at Penrhyn Castle – although the ‘King of the Castle’ does not accept ramblers, he does accept runners on a Saturday morning.  As usual the course was described as relatively flat – they lied – well, presumably it was flat relative to other parts of Wales but I can tell you it was hilly!  But we did it and enjoyed the marvellous setting of the castle.

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Later in the morning we set off on a walk to Beaumaris – an easy 3 or 4 miles.  So easy in fact that when we got there and refreshed ourselves with lunch, we decided to walk on another 4 miles … to Penmon Point.  The second half of the walk was not so easy as there was a lot of walking along shingle beaches and some pretty big hills.

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Arriving in pretty Beaumaris

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Just leaving Beaumaris – this is the best type of coastal walking

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Arriving at Penmon Point

It turned out that Penmon Point was pretty remote – managed eventually to get a taxi to come and pick us up … didn’t fancy the 8 mile walk home.

Sunday 10th June 2018

Our last full day in Wales so decided to end this leg of our walking trip with a short stroll to … Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch !!!!  And we have the signpost to prove it!  Another beautiful walk, not far and not too strenuous.  Walked through a very pretty churchyard at one point and the exit led us onto a beach with … lo and behold … a statue of Nelson.  The sign on the front of the statue read “England expects that every man will do his duty” – bet they love that in Wales – probably why you have to clamber round on the rocks to read it.

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The Menai Bridge, just opposite our airbnb

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The Britannia Bridge, on the Menai Straits

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Admiral Nelson – just what you expect to find on the beach!

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Baa Baa Brown Sheep

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This is where we need to pick up the path next time

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That place with the really long name!

And so ends our coastal walking for now.  We will be back to finish off Anglesey and hopefully the rest of Wales.  We’ve absolutely loved The Wirral, Chester, North Wales and Anglesey and it’s good to have been back out rambling.  Thanks for joining us. xx

Loving Deganwy and Conwy … and all things Welsh

Sunday 3rd June 2018

Today’s planned walk involved walking from Conwy to Llanfairfechan (I know – quite a mouthful) but just to mix it up a bit we decided to do it in reverse – there was a reason for this but I won’t go into long winded details!! So we were up and out keenly from our accommodation in Deganwy and caught the train to Llanfairfechan (pronouncing the name when buying the tickets was interesting).  Whilst waiting at the station all the announcements were in Welsh which was lovely – really makes you feel like you’re abroad!!  We’d also been informed that Llanfairfechan was a request stop so we had to make sure we informed the guard in advance – luckily it was just a 3 carriage train and we tracked her down.  If we’d been catching it on the way back we would have had to flag it down from the platform like you do buses – so funny!!!

The coastal path signs in Llanfairfechan tried to send us up some rather high mountain paths but clever old Steve had found some new alternative lower level paths … and you can guess which option we chose!?  I’m sure it was incredibly scenic from up the top but we still enjoyed being nearer to the sea and avoiding the climb.  The downside was being close to a busy road but, hey ho, you make your choices!!

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This is the mountain that the coastal path signs kindly tried to introduce us to!

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We chose the new alternative route – through the base of the mountain

It was a relatively easy route today, a few hills but on the whole flat and manageable.  Some stunning views of Great Orme – it had been pretty shrouded in mist when we walked it a few days ago.

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Great Orme – a beautiful walk if ever you’re in Llandudno

As we approached Conwy we had a bit of traipsing through sand dunes, alongside the golf course.  From this lovely beach we had great views of Deganwy, our current residence!

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Deganwy – our airbnb is situated amongst the trees just right of middle, at the back.

We had a little rest on the beach and tucked into our cheese and cucumber sandwiches, before calling an end to our 8 mile trek and heading back to base.

The weather again today was so amazing … we sat out on our balcony and enjoyed a couple of cold beers in the sun – a real holiday feel.   And, being Sunday, Steve got his chef hat on and produced an incredible roast beef dinner – we may be away from home but we can still stick to traditions!  Absolutely delicious, as was the wine purchased in a wine shop in Rhos-on-Sea.

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This is the walk from our back garden gate in Deganwy

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Views from the top of Deganwy

Monday 4th June 2018

As mentioned before, Steve has committed himself to another marathon and so this morning he set off to fit in a ‘long run.’  I opted for a more leisurely TV catch up.

Later, with the sun out in full force, we spent some time on the beach followed by a look around Conwy with its stunning castles and quayside areas.  Liking this more leisurely approach to our rambling.

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Conwy Castle

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A very relaxing day all in all.  Back to some ‘rambling’ tomorrow.

A Welsh room with a view

Friday 1st June 2018

We were up and out early this morning – oh so keen!  Our plan for today was to walk to Llandudno and, depending on what this walk had involved in terms of terrain and time, perhaps walk on to Conwy.  The weather was dull … and in fact got mistier and mistier as we moved around the coast.  We were all geared up for eventualities though and the waterproofs certainly got put to the test at a couple of points during the day.

So, parked up in Colwyn Bay and headed off along the promenade and into Rhos-on-Sea, all very pretty seaside areas.  As we hit Penrhyn the coastal path took us onto a pebble beach (not so great for our old knee joints) and then, finally we were presented with our first big hill climb – oh joy!  The signs had let us down a little at this point – we’d searched other low level options but it seemed like the only way was up.  So up we went and there was one of our Wales coastal path signs at the top – yay, we were back on track!

But then we lost the signs again and had to blindly dodge our way across a few sheep-filled fields, battling through an abundance of stinging nettles and climb over locked gates until we found our way back onto the path.  Steve was so excited he fell off the gate into the undergrowth!!

From here it was all downhill into Llandudno and some more promenade walking, still heavily shrouded in mist.  We loved the feel of this town, pretty Georgian houses and old hotels beautifully presented – both pebble and sand beaches, something for everyone.

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As we walked around the bay and up the hill we had views of the pier with its array of amusements – obviously a popular family resort.

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From there the path took us into the Great Orme Country Park – a prominent limestone headland.  It was a fair old climb but so worth it for its magnificent views, despite the persistent mist.  At points you felt so high up with very steep drops to your right – but they had kindly provided a sturdy stone wall all around the headland to break any falls!

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At the base of the Great Orme the rain started to fall heavily so we headed for the nearest tea shop and feasted on Welsh rarebit and gallons of tea.  After this sustenance we continued on our trail and followed the misty path through to Deganwy and then onto Conwy – both exceptionally picturesque places.   We will be staying in this area for the next four nights, from tomorrow, so we’re looking forward to exploring all the many attractions.

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As we had walked across the bridge in Conwy the mist was so thick that we could hardly see the views on either side.  Even Conwy castle was obscured – not sure why people had still climbed it.  But as we walked through the city wall and came out the other side – it was like walking into another day … full clear sunshine!  It was like saying … “Tonight Matthew I’m going to be ….” and walking through dry ice into another time!

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By this time we had completed 14 miles so felt justified in running for a bus that happened to come along – perfect timing.

And after a little recovery snooze back at base, we headed up the hill to the White Lion in Llanelian, where we had a delicious meal and a fun evening with Fran and Andy – some new chums we made on our recent trip to Thailand.  It was great to see them and we exchanged many travelling stories.  We had also met up at the cricket in Australia last December – and it now seems we’ll be meeting up again in Sri Lanka when England are out there to play later in the year – happy days.

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Saturday 2nd June 2018

Why do I always have too many wines the night before a Parkrun!!  We were having a ‘no walk day’ today but we still inflicted this 5k run on ourselves at some unreasonable hour in the morning after the night before!!  It was a beautiful course actually and we both did OK – survived … and felt great once it was over!

Then we had to check out of our gorgeously comfy house in Old Colwyn, say goodbye to our fabulous hosts and head to our new airbnb in Deganwy.  We stopped off for an amazing breakfast in Fortes in Rhos-on-Sea on the way – it was like stepping back in time – but the food was delicious and we would highly recommend it if you ever find yourself in that part of Wales.

And now we are settled into our new abode for the next four nights … and it’s perfect … with views to die for.  We’d be happy just sitting on our balcony for the whole stay … but there’s walking to do and things to explore.  Life is good.

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