It’s official – we are sick of hills.  Climbed far too many today!! 😩

Spent a lot of last night lying awake listening to the 50 mph winds crashing around the trees which surrounded our Airbnb room – amazing accommodation though and oh so comfortable bed.  We were relieved to wake up this morning to little wind, blue skies and sunshine – result!!  Our lovely host Michelle had been keeping us updated on weather forecasts, particularly in regard to the winds.  I thought I was being a bit wimpy the other day when I dipped out half way but when Caroline told me that someone had been blown off Portland Bill I felt my concerns were justified.  Michelle was able to tell us that the winds should not be a concern today and, believe it or not, there would be no rain for the next 5 days.  

We set off from Torcross full of the joys of ‘autumn’ – looking forward to a bright and breezy day.

Our journey started walking the two mile stretch of Torcross Sands – straightforward enough.  We had no sooner reached the end of the beach when the heavens opened – we got absolutely drenched.  My trousers were so rain-soaked I could hardly pick up my legs.  But within 10 minutes the sun was out in full force …. and so the day continued, switching between heavy downpours and full on sunshine.  This unfortunately led to some extremely muddy terrain – we must have walked for a mile at one point in thick mud, there was no avoiding it – going uphill in it was fun, like a mudslide, kids would have loved it.  We had to take it very slowly downhill as you can imagine – how we both stayed upright I don’t know.

Passed some stunning places on our way to Dartmoor including Blackpool Sands, Strete and Stoke Fleming.

We met up with Annette and Graham and walked with them for a section and then met another couple who we walked and talked with for a while – so many walking stories to exchange.

As we approached Dartmoor the views were to die for – the sea was so calm and turquoise – would loved to have dived in.

Arrived in Dartmoor in relatively good time, about 2.15pm and the sun was shining – found our accomodation which is a fabulously located self-contained apartment, near to the harbour and shops/restaurants.  After a freshen up we wandered down to the harbour – sat in the sunshine and watched the world go by for an hour or two, very relaxing.  Settled for fish and chips and a cuppa then back to the apartment.

Tomorrow we take this ferry to Kingswear to start the next leg of the journey.

We often comment on the number of gates we walk through each day and also ‘comment’ (as grumpy old people do) on the ratio of gates to grazing animals.  And each gate is different and so needs to be worked out, some push, some pull and they have different types of latches and catches!!  So Steve found himself counting today (think it’s about time we called an end to this trip!!) and there we have it …. we unfastened and walked through 28 gates today and in total we passed 4 fields of grazing animals … and one of them was a solitary horse.

We stayed in a fabulous B&B in Malborough last night, our lovely host Jo really looked after us … and she cooked a delicious vegetarian omelette for breakfast.  So headed off by bus to Salcombe and then by ferry to East Portlesham.

So today we had a 12 mile walk from Salcombe to Torcross.  Now every day I set off with a ball of anxiety tightly tucked into my tummy, wondering what lies ahead of me.  The guide today had indicated that it was one of the toughest walks on the path so I was putting on my bravest face.  At least the sun was out and although still some wind, nothing like the 35 mph gusts from yesterday.  It really is the most amazing experience, as you walk along you face a section at a time, literally what you can see ahead of you …. so as you turn a corner it could be a huge climb, a huge flight of steps downwards, a narrow cliffside path, rocks to climb over … and you tackle each challenge as it presents … and once it’s over you feel such a sense of achievement and you move on.  Today there was a fair amount of rock to clamber over and some very close to the edge of the cliff stuff but all in all I loved the walk today …. and really feel proud of myself and Mr. Rose.  As always we were rewarded with stunning coastline scenery – it’s impossible to grow tired of it.

Being so close to the edge of the cliff today and over rocky terrain it was essential to keep our eyes peeled on the ground – so when we got to the lighthouse at Start Point and climbed over the hill to see Start Bay it was an absolute joy.  From there it was a fairly easy track through to Hallsands and Beesands … and we were rewarded with outstanding views.  We also bumped into our fellow walkers, Annette and Graham in Hallsands and walked together to Beesands where we stopped off at the Cricket Arms for a drink.

There was a corker of a hill between Beesands and Torcross – it’s so mean having such a killer at the end of a 6 hour walking day, but it has to be done.  Our host Steve came to collect us as we are staying in Stokenham tonight and what a fabulous Airbnb we have found.   Steve and Michelle have a farm tucked away at the top of a VERY narrow lane just beyond the village.  Our bedroom AND lounge are amazing – we are well and truly comfortable.  Michelle even drove us to the pub and came to collect us as (1) it’s a long walk down a very dark country lane and (2) the rain is well and truly back + 50 mph wind.

Had a great stay in Bigbury-on-Sea last night, beautiful accommodation.  We had a loft room with a dormer window and an absolutely stunning view over to Burgh Island with its majestic hotel all lit up.  We were also able to look up to a clear sky with thousands of stars, perfect.

Set off this morning in extremely windy conditions – literally being pushed sideways when walking on the cliff edge.  Had a two mile walk to get the ferry across the Avon – luckily the boatman turned up as he is apparently a little unreliable.  Travelled over with our new friends Annette and Graham.  

Fairly moderate walking through Thurlestone and on to Hope Cove.  That is in terms of terrain, unfortunately the wind seemed to get stronger and stronger – this made for amazing sea views but did nothing for my anxiety levels!!

Reached Hope Cove by lunchtime and stopped for a quick sandwich.  I dipped out at this stage as the ongoing route was detailed as high rugged cliffs and on this blustery day I preferred the option of a bus ride to Malborough where we were staying tonight.  

Steve walked on to Salcombe and really enjoyed the spectacular views – felt it was one of his favourite parts of the coastline.  Wind continued but the sun came out and made it more pleasurable …. and he arrived in Salcombe in good time, then bus to Malborough – a pretty little village (more affordable for us to stay than in Salcombe) … and he didn’t get blown over the cliff!!

Been trying this video thing a bit on the phone although at times its soooo windy but I guess you can probably see that!​ 

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Enjoyed a day off in Wembury yesterday.  Steve managed to get to a Park Run in Plym Valley and loved being out running again, of course proudly sported his Redway Runners shirt.  Weather a bit hit and miss but we managed to fit a couple of hours in on the beach, some cafe time, very short walk then lots of chilling back at the B&B.  Steve watched some cricket, I caught up on two episodes of Victoria.  Phil, our lovely host, let us use his washing machine and clothes line.  I know I’ve probably mentioned laundry before on this blog but you have to be a walker to appreciate the scale of satisfaction you experience when leaving somewhere with a set of clean clothes, underwear and socks!!

So today’s walk was a 14 mile walk to Bigbury-on-Sea.  It started with a 2 mile walk to the ferry, fairly easy going – the ferry took us across the River Yealm where we then started a 9 mile walk to the River Erme.  There were long stretches of wide open paths so we actually got to walk side by side for a change, even holding hands ❤️  As the day went on however, the wind got stronger and stronger and seemed to come from every direction.  When the paths became narrow and cliffside again, we held hands to minismise the chances of being blown over – two bodyweights seemed better than one.  

Passed some particularly stubborn cows at one point, they were hogging the whole path just by the gate.  Despite Steve’s verbal requests and even some gentle nudging they wouldn’t budge an inch.  We had to step off the path on the cliff slope to get round them.  What is the world coming to!?  Saw this flock of sheep laying right on the edge of the cliff – at least they weren’t in our way.  

We met some other walkers in our B&B last night, Annette and Graham – they were doing this walk today too.  We had done the ferry crossing together and had agreed to meet up at River Erme because we had to undertake a difficult operation there.  We had to wait till within an hour of low tide and wade across the river at a certain point.  By this time the wind was SO strong and the rain coming down fairly heavy too.  The four of us did it together – safety in numbers.  

Once we had conquered the River Erme wading, we thought it would be an easy 3 miles to our destination in Bigbury-On-Sea…. but oh no, it was an extremely strenuous 5 miles … steep ascents and descents and crazy windy conditions.  Some stunning views though.

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We met up with Annette and Graham again in Challaborough Bay where we had dinner and drinks – and watched the surfers – before heading up the hill to find our B&B in Bigbury-on-Sea – we were all checked in to the same B&B again tonight, appropriately called ‘Summerwinds.’

Stayed in a ‘tired’ B&B in Plymouth last night, sharing a ‘broom cupboard’ shower and toilet with 12 other guests!!  So it wasn’t too much of a wrench to leave this morning, even though, as forecast, the rain and wind were out in full force.  We left wrapped and waterproofed up to battle the elements – John McEnroe ravings sprung to mind – “You cannot be serious!!”  However, as commonly happens in Devon & Cornwall, the sun made an appearance by late morning and all was well.  

One of the toughest parts of the day was getting out of Plymouth – a bridge was closed and we literally went round the houses + the industrial estates, the harbour, the marinas, rivers …. you name it, we went round it …. and finally 6 miles and 2 hours later we found the real coastal path!!  This photo below was taken from Jennycliff (our B&B was just close to the lighthouse) – it was just across the water but we had taken forever to get there.  Tip of the day:  take a ferry!!

On our way we passed a few landmarks …

A great walk today, nothing too strenuous.  Stopped for lunch at Bovisands then straight on to Wembury where we are stopping tonight.  In fact we are stopping here for 2 nights – allowing ourselves a ‘day off’ tomorrow after 10 straight days of walking – we feel it’s well deserved and are very excited about a lie-in (although Steve is thinking about getting to a Park Run)!  If it’s sunny there’s a beach nearby, if it’s thunder and lightening, as forecast, we’ll have a cosy day in … doing our chores and chilling.  

Off to the pub now for dins. 🍷🍺

It was unusually warm at 9.00am this morning as we left Portwrinkle (Cornwall), setting off up the hill on our 13 mile walk to Plymouth (Devon).  The guide had indicated an easy – moderate route and they got that about right – we fully appreciated the lengths of flat walking and shorter ascents and descents along the way, felt we deserved it after the last few days.

From the top of the first hill we were diverted off the coastal path due to the military firing range at Tregantle Fort.  This then involved us walking along roads and some extremely overgrown roadside paths.  So glad I had my full-length walking trousers on – still have that ‘impending doom’ outlook in regards to adders!  We were relieved to reach the end of the diversion and walked down the road alongside the firing range, inquisitively looking through the barriers – they have a real fort to play with!!  I jumped out of my skin however when the firing suddenly started – I’d be useless in a war zone!!  Steve was fascinated and hung around to watch – I scurried down the road as fast as I could.  

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So a beautiful walk along the stretch of Whitsand Bay – a few nasty ascents and descents meandering our way around the holiday chalets that nestle into the cliffs along that coastline.  By now the day had chilled right down which made it more comfortable for walking.  We were surprised to see a number of brave swimmers though, including two skinny-dippers enjoying the waves at the far end of the bay.

We reached Cawsand by lunchtime – pretty little town with twisty cobbled streets and tiny cottages with front doors not made for big fellas!!  As we had gone continental for this morning’s breakfast we treated ourselves to bacon butties and mugs of tea and then set off to finish our path to Plymouth.  

Lots of luscious woodland scenery and stunning gardens walking through Mount Edgecumbe Country Park brought us through to our ferry point.  And so to Plymouth …. and change of county.  

Waiting for the ferry to take us to Plymouth.  Flying the flag for the Redway Runners today.  🏃❤️

When we were leaving our wonderfully comfortable Polperro B&B this morning, the landlady reassured us that, as we were experienced walkers, today’s 12 mile route would be a ‘walk in the park.’   Well not quite!  

So, having this easier walk in mind, we actually treated ourselves to a few more breaks today.  Coffee in Talland Bay at 10.00am, another clifftop stop at 11.00am to devour some chocolate tea cakes, a mooch around the town of West Looe followed by a picnic lunch stop about an hour out of Looe.  

But it was no surprise that the walk was no picnic – the same old long, steep hills, some seeming to go on forever – when you feel the hill cannot possibly get higher you turn the corner and on up it goes!!  We had some variation today in that many of the hills were tarmac paths and roads, particularly leaving Polperro, Black Rock and Seaton – we had diversions due to crumbling clifftops, private property construction and monkey sanctuaries.  Made a change though and change is as good as a rest.  Rest – what a dream!!  After 6 hours of walking I just wanted to cry when the final hill loomed around the corner – I found a way through it – I thought of a little boy I worked with last academic year who suffered so badly with ADHD – at playtimes I would often keep him calm by marching around the playground with him singing “The Grand Old Duke of York, he had 10,000 men” 🎶 – on repeat!!  Today I thought of (X) with his beautiful smiley face, and sang that song … on repeat …. to get me up that hill.  

So although tiring today, nothing too deadly.  Just one area heavily populated with mountain goats with particularly long curly horns – my brave husband talked ‘goat’ to them all the way through and they kindly vacated the path and found a way to cling to the side of the cliff instead!  

We’re staying in a pub tonight just out of town called The Halfway House – Emily kindly came and picked us up and showed us to our spacious and very comfortable room.  Only have to go downstairs for dinner too – can’t be bad.  

And tomorrow we leave Cornwall and head to Plymouth, Devon.  

After a cosy night’s sleep (single beds as Pam had been expecting Steve to arrive with another man!) and a fine breakfast, Vic kindly dropped us off at Par Sands so we start off on today’s adventure.

 

We asked Vic to drop us off at the camp-site where we had some ‘economy’ family holidays in the past – my it’s changed – all smart holiday homes now.  And the location of the camp-site shop/cafe has now turned into an Italian Restaurant called Milos.  This was the shop where regularly at 9.30/10.00am they still would have no milk, bread or newspapers to sell and the shop assistant clearly did not care a jot about that!!  It was where one morning when Steve clearly felt he was not receiving the customer service he deserved that he uttered the infamous remark to the assistant “Is there something wrong with you!?”

When we found the coastal path out of Par we were fascinated to see a sign on the first path saying ‘Bat Walk.’  A hundred yards on when we stopped to glance over the beach we were mad we hadn’t photographed the sign ……. because of course it was Par Sands that another legendary family incident occurred, involving Caroline and Jim and a Cricket BAT!!

And so the walk commenced, now if yesterday was steep, today was even steeper – more hills, more descents, more steps – it was an unforgiving day.  As I’m climbing sometimes I feel so much hate – I hate the hill, I hate Cornwall, I hate my husband (and I’m sure he hates me and my whinging) and I hate myself for getting into that position.  But then you finally reach the top and see fabulous views …. and you breathe … and you relax … and all is well with the world again.  

Arrived in Fowey at lunchtime and treated ourselves to a little look around town.  As you walk in it’s so pretty with palm trees, pink and blue hydrangeas, wind in the willows garden, pastel coloured cottages – love this place.  We were soaked and muddy up to our knees but found a lovely restaurant where they insisted we come in, despite our look!!  I enjoyed a chunk of pork pie, rocket salad and homemade piccalilli (thought of you Gina!).  After lunch we took the ferry to Polruan and started on the second part of today’s 15 mile walk.  

The journey continued to be relentless in terms of climbs – back to rugged cliffs now and more edge of the cliff walking – feel I’m getting a little braver in this regard – well I just don’t look to my right to be honest!!  Our B&B host tonight has just told us that there are 900 steps between here (Polperro) and Polruan – and that’s just half of our walk!!

Met a little more wildlife today – still too many cows for my liking – but also came across Freddy Frog basking in the sun on our path and there were hundreds of Red Admiral butterflies – some outstretched on the path, others fluttering around in great numbers.

So, although we love Polperro, after 7 hours of walking we are just going to relax in our very sumptuous B&B room (splashed out!) – we have king size bed and TV.  We’ve brought in supplies for a cream tea, wine and nibbles.  A chilled evening is on the agenda!!

Robin cooked a fine breakfast and chatted busily as he did so ….. we set off a little later than planned.

It was very much a STEEP day – steep hills both up and down, steep steps both up and down (more than 100 in one flight and there were many flights!) and steep in mud!!  The weather had brightened up today – in fact no rain and some sun – but yesterday’s downpours have left patches of very boggy ground.  We were caked in it!

So a tough day of walking.  The funny thing is we knew it would be as the guide had indicated roller coaster climbs.  But literally every time we dragged ourselves to the top of a hill there would be an immediate descent right to the very bottom where another hill would be lurking, hardly any flat walking for most of the day.  So although pre-warned we still grumbled every time – “so mean” “this is ridiculous” “I don’t believe it” – “who designed this coastline!!”   I think today we started our third ascent of Everest – I can understand your comparison now Nigel.  We actually decided that in this fast developing technological world escalators and conveyor belts might be the way to go …. could also promote diversity – equality of access and all that!!

We had to take the descents slowly as so slippy underfoot – Steve came a cropper as he dared to glance over to St Austell, removing his eyes from the path for a nanosecond, a particularly wet rock left him on his bottom and with a badly grazed knee.  He soldiered on!!

Stopped off in pretty Charlestown for some lunch.  A harbour town, with many tall ships and famous for the filming of Poldark.  

Arrived in Par after our 12 mile hill hike, hit the pub and downed a beer or two while we waited for our kind B&B host, Pam, to pick us up to drive us to our ‘today nest’ in St Blazey Gate.  Beautiful room and bathroom – just about to relax my weary limbs in a hot bath with lashings of bath foam.  Then out to the pub to eat – someone has to do it!!  Hope the bill’s not too STEEP!!

Carol was our airbnb host last night in beautiful Portloe, such a wonderful house and we loved Carol, didn’t want to leave.  When Steve set off this morning to cover the first (ridiculously steep) mile and a half on his own, Carol and I enjoyed lots of chats before driving to Portholland to meet Steve.  Steve of course had managed it in record time – looked a bit flushed though so sure there had been some running involved.  I was a little anxious about this walk as it was to be ‘strenuous’ so when Carol offered to drive me on to Mevagissey, boy was I tempted.  But I took up the challenge … and survived.  The weather had changed today to full on winter – rain (torrential at times), wind and thick fog.  Steve and I definitely came to the conclusion today that we are BONKERS!!

Last night we had dined and wined at The Ship Inn and met this lovely little chap with his owner – they had completed the Portloe – Megavissey walk that day and other parts of the coastline – so we stayed way beyond our usual bedtime to exchange walking stories and scary experiences.  

So much climbing involved today, hill after hill after hill, sometimes we thought it just couldn’t get any higher.  A lot of countryside walking today, across fields, through woodland, narrow paths of soaking wet foliage.  Even when the sea was in sight it wasn’t (we couldn’t see the sea!) – the fog was so thick we could literally see a few feet to our right and could just hear the high waves crashing on to the rocks.  And boy did it rain, it didn’t stop all day – we were soaked down to our socks and undies!!  

Such a deserted path today, can’t think why!!!  But then, just before Hemmick Beach, in the middle of nowhere, we stumbled across a man and a lady who were doing a National Countryside survey – they had been there since 7.00am (it was now 11.00am) and we had been the first people to come by – they were tasked to stay there till 7.00pm.  Although we were soaked and on the verge of freezing by then, we could hardly say ‘no’ so we graciously spent 10 minutes answering their questions.  One of the questions was “Do you feel calm and relaxed when walking the Coastal Path?”  Today was not the day to ask that question – I’m afraid it got a ‘strongly disagree!’  

Lots of countryside wildlife too – fields were heavily populated with sheep and cows.  We were joined by a pheasant strutting its stuff along the path ahead of us for quite a distance.  Rather an abundance too of humongous black slugs!!   So am trying to get back to nature … although these cows still stress me out …. I had just handled my anxiety baggage through a field of particularly loitering fresians and escaped over the stile … then came face to face with these two beauties.

Stopped for lunch in Gorran Haven and then walked on to Portmellon Cove …. both places pretty deserted and windswept.  Things look so different when the sun stops shining.  

And so on to Mevagissey.  We used to come here with the children when they were young so have happy memories of sunny days round by the harbour and its twisty lanes.  Today sadly it looked bleak and the harbour water an unpleasant brown colour – lots of people milling round trying to fill their Sunday afternoon.  We were lucky enough to walk up yet another steep hill and find our lovely airbnb – Rosie and Robin welcomed us with tea and cake and friendly chat – then showed us our cosy room – we even have a decanter of port and plums – what else could you possibly want?  😊