Had spent a chilled evening in our airbnb in Illogen, care of our lovely hosts Mike and Anna.  Snacked on homous, olives, pate and pitta and of course lashings of wine.  Polished off with a competitive game of scrabble.

It rained heavily during the night but we woke up to a drier morning … however, of course being Cornwall, this didn’t last.  Mike drove us down some very narrow country lanes to the start of today’s 12 mile walk from Portreath to Hayle.  

There was a stupendous climb on leaving Portreath, at many parts a hands and knees job!  The first couple of miles was quite heavy going – ups and downs ‘a plenty!   Steve has become quite the expert on weather conditions – in fact we’ve renamed him the ‘stormtrooper!’  He can spot a storm arriving from over the seas before the BBC get an inkling.  And there were many spottings and horrendous downpours during the day – we got drenched and then the sun would appear and we’d dry off instantly, only to go through it all again almost on an hourly basis.  But the mixture of weathers brought the most stunning rainbows.

After the initial climbs, the majority of the walk was pretty easy going and we were able to appreciate some stunning coastline scenery.  Still didn’t see any seals but being periodically rain blasted didn’t support the observation process.  

And then we came upon our beloved stretch of beach – from Godrevy, down through Gwithian Towans and on to Hayle.  The weather was bleak on arrival so photos of St Ives Bay do not do it justice. 

We trudged for miles over the towans, although overjoyed to be back in our old haunt, it was a long slug in what was pretty dreary weather.  Many families still braving the storms to settle onto the beach for the afternoon, surfers still surfing!  

At times the sun came out and brought back all those happy memories of our family holidays here.  Memories of bodyboarding, fishing with nets in the rock pools, losing Tom, flying kites, sand-modelling, losing Tom, digging holes and trenches, playing cricket, picnics, doing cartwheels …. oh and losing Tom!!!  Such simple and economically-challenged days but boy were they fun.  Thinking of all all our fellow-campers today (you know who you are – we were so lucky in being able to share these experiences with many family members and friends.

Walking through the dunes got a little tight at times in terms of squeezing through narrow paths overgrown with brambles, grasses etc.  I’m pretty petrified about adders so try my best not to think about it – but I take heed of Kaye and Greg’s advice offered to me when in Australia, and stamp my feet so that the snakes will know I’m coming and will stay away!!

It was fabulous to reach the town of Hayle which has changed considerably since I was last here – quite up and coming!  We then decided to walk on … to our airbnb destination .. this took another hour!!  But was worth it, quite palatial – we have two whole rooms – a lounge/diner/kitchen plus an ensuite bedroom.  You can’t imagine how amazing this feels after nights in rooms where you have to take turns to walk around!!  And the sun was shining.  Every cloud, and rainbow, has a silver lining. 🌈☔️☀️

Another downpour occurred,luckily this time whilst we were in bed, to think we spent years enjoying summer holidays in Cornwall, all is seems to do is rain and blow a gale.  I sit writing this at 5pm in the garden of our lovely AirBnB in August with a fleece on!  

With this in mind, looking at the prediction for today’s trip of strenuous walking my darling Dee decided to take the bus, leaving Forrest Gump aka Steve to run / walk the 12 miles in just about three hours which considering the terrain I was well pleased with, also meant that we arrived at The Basset Arms for a couple of swift lunchtime pints, I needed to rehydrate you understand.  It’s weird they had a special beer in for me when we arrived:-

Considering the guide book rates this as one of the more difficult parts of the path I was surprised at how many people I saw whilst on route, most it seems intent on looking at closed / no longer working mines which I guess on chilly days is something to do, although they all looked at me running as if I was the stupid one, surely not?  Anyway for the record here is one of the closed mine heads, they are very close to the edge!
Also took a couple of snaps of a beach at St Agnes and a random rock as I passed through, amazingly not too blurred considering the speed that I was moving at (ha ha):-

However possibly the highlight of the day was yours truly Steve aka Forrest Gump going 🏄 surfing, not in the sea I’m afraid but in a muddy puddle on one of the paths (did I mention it’s been raining?).  There is no photographic evidence of the actual event but I’m pleased to show you my washing is drying on the line afterwards as something of a permanent memory XX

Getting away from the crowds in Newquay … these guys had the right idea!

We left a sunny Newquay behind this morning as we headed out along the estuary to Crantock Bay for our 11 mile walk to Perranporth.  This included a section called the Gannel Poetry Trail and then through Holywell Bay.

 Today’s guide had indicated a challenging – strenuous walk so we had mentally prepared for the challenge.  Lots of uphill and downhill (what’s new!) – all in all a manageable but tiring day.  We had definitely hit sand dune territory which requires a whole new set of walking skills!  We took the alternative of walking across beaches wherever possible.  However, today it was the wind that proved to be the major force to reckon with. … either when walking shorelines, up and down in the dunes or along the edge of the cliffs … it was knock you sideways winds (fortunately inland direction!) and sunglasses were essential items for the sandstorms (Steve had not brought his)! 

The tides just about allowed us to walk the stretch of Perran Sands and thus we avoided a whole stretch of sand dunes – it took forever to get along it but we were rewarded at the end by a steep but manageable path up (it actually had a hand rail) and onto the final stretch to Perranporth.

This sign made us laugh as it clearly indicated that the lifeguards are sick of answering these questions!!

Reached Perranporth just in time to jump on a bus back to Newquay where we were staying for a 2nd night in our seaside B&B.  

Tip of the day:  Do not ask locals for details of the coastal path i.e. Distance, direction, severity of route – they ALL lie!!  The truth is it’s unlikely that they have ever walked it – I guess they’re trying to be helpful but you’re better off sticking to your maps and instinct (if you have either of those)!  

Porthcothan looked so different this morning to when we had left it yesterday afternoon.  This morning we left it in glorious sunshine.  And although the weather had cheered up so dramatically, it was with a heavier heart that I set off – I had received news that our lovely friend Grainne had lost her battle with cancer on Sunday – such a vibrant person, amazing wife and mother and beautiful friend – rest in peace Grainne.  I thought of you every step of my journey today and felt you were holding my hand all the way. ❤️

And this turned out to be my favourite walking day so far.  All 12 miles of it.  So that was 13.5 yesterday and 12 today.  Some gentle slopes but lots of steps …. and more steps …. and yet more steep steps!!  But nothing particularly scary or life-threatening.  Some narrow paths where you feel you have to walk like a model – one foot placed strategically in front of the other – trying not to look at the drop on your right!  But the majority of the time we strolled over easier terrain – well when I say stroll, Steve prefers to speed walk so my little legs work hard to keep up!  And overtaking – well, Steve was positively triumphant when we overtook a younger couple climbing a hill out of Mawgan Porth just after lunch.  And this was quite a feat as we had just polished off a cream tea!  

Had hoped so much to lose weight on this journey but it’s just not happening.  So much exercise but then throw in full English Breakfasts, Cornish pasties, cream teas, fish and chips, wine/beer!!  I saw a great sign in a shop in Padstow which read  ‘Please God, if you can’t make me thin, please make all my friends fat!’

Passed through so many beautiful beaches today – Bedruthan Steps, Mawgan Porth, Watergate Bay, Porth – much busier beaches in this part of Cornwall and today being particularly sunny they were heavily populated.

After 5 hours of walking + a lunch stop we arrived in Newquay – seems like a metropolis compared to all our other stops so far.  Settled into our B&B, found a friendly launderette to service wash our gear (this is such a big thing!!) and then dined out in Senor Dick’s Mexican Bar and Restaurant.  Had a little wander round Newquay before retiring back to our room for the night.  And it’s still only 8.30pm.  We had thought we’d planned in a day’s rest tomorrow but just realised that we haven’t – so harsh!!  So another 11 miles to cover tomorrow and it threatens to be ‘challenging – strenous.’  

An enthusiastic start on our journey to Porthcothan – we didn’t quite sail ourselves but there were hundreds of sailing boats along the route and it was spectacular to watch, very calming.  

Today started in relatively manageable fashion, we ambled along the grassy cliff-tops chomping on lemon bon-bons – some steepish hills thrown in for good measure but nothing compared to the mountains we’d conquered on previous expeditions!!  We stuck close to the coastline so many glorious views of cliffs and golden beaches.  Entered some farming land at times and passed some impressive cabbage fields – Steve’s OCD surfaced as he admired the magnificently straight planting lines!  Again so much flora and fauna to wonder at – passed these giant mushrooms – must have been about 30cm diameter!

Observed many seagulls nestling into the cliffs as the weather started to deteriorate.  Peregrines swooping all around us too searching for food.  We thought the cows had got it wrong when we saw them laying down but, oh no, were they right.  The heavens opened and the rain persisted for the last two hours of our walking.  This caused it to get tricky underfoot – mudslides to be exact.  Steve was helping me down one particularly muddy slope and I literally just slid from top to bottom!!

And so we arrived in Porthcothan like drowned rats.  Naturally had just missed the bus so had a 2 hour wait … which turned into another 2 hours as the next bus just didn’t turn up.  A lovely couple took pity on us and gave us a lift to St Merryn where we stayed the night in The Farmers Arms.  A lively pub to say the least but a comforting Carvery and a few drinks later our spirits had been restored.  Even joined in singing with the local Ukele band..

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Made the most of our rest day in Padstow as the sun continued to shine brightly on the Birthday weekend. Our day started off with breakfast at Rick Stein’s Cafe …..

Then took a stroll along to the beach for a relaxing hour or so.  Weird to be surrounded by so many people – Padstow a hugely popular place.  There was a ‘grumpy’ moment on the beach though when someone’s dog thought it fair game to join in on Steve’s Cornish pasty lunch – despite several apologies from the owners, Steve just couldn’t bring himself to say ‘that’s OK – opted for the eye avoidance instead!!

We had found ourselves a perfect haven in ‘Coswarth House’ – a stroll up the hill, away from the jostling crowds.  Sampled a few hostelries – the Golden Lion, The Shipwrights, The Custom House – can recommend them all.  

Had a bit of an unplanned pre-Birthday celebration last night in Port Isaac 🎉🎉 – pub – followed by fabulous dinner at The School House – followed by more pub!! So a couple of little weary heads surfaced for fruit breakfast and headed out. Lot and lots of lovely Birthday messages received – thanks to all ❤️

Today’s path was Port Isaac via Polzeath to Rock and from there the ferry to Padstow. Stunning scenery as always along the way, ending the walk along stretches of golden sands and dunes.

So arrived in the very beautiful town of Padstow (of Rick Stein fame!) and weaved our way up the hill to find our Birthday treat weekend residence – Coswarth House – met by the charming Jack who chatted us through the hotel routines (includes breakfast at Rick Stein’s cafe) and led us to the sunny garden for a glass of bubbly.  It’s been a great day and there’s more to come ……

 

During our two day stay in the bijou ‘Surf Shack’ we had covered the coastal walk from Tintagel to Trebarwith Strand so Steve headed off solo this morning to complete the ‘severe’ part of the route to Port Isaac.  

I had a leisurely morning chatting to our hosts Jo and Grayburn, making them very envious about our travels (we never stop going on about it)!!!  Then headed off in a taxi, with the rucksacks, to Port Isaac and found our next ‘bed for the night.’  Some exceptionally winding, narrow and steep country lanes but boy am I relieved I’m not walking them.  

No phone service in Port Isaac but managed to stumble across Steve sitting down by the harbour – he had made it there in 2 and a half hours.  The views had been absolutely spectacular but the walk had lived up to the ‘severe’ reputation.  Many many ups and downs and plenty of ‘rock climbing’ like ascents where Steve said he couldn’t look down, just had to keep going.  Neither of us have a head for heights – can’t quite believe we ever contemplated this!!!

Port Isaac is a pretty little fishing village and is known for the filming of the Doc Martin TV series – beautiful winding, narrow streets, very quaint – interesting watching vehicles manouevering in and out though!  Had lunch on the quay and then more than walked it off on the steep hill climb out of the village.  Heading back in there tonight to have dinner at The Old School Restaurant …. followed by – you guessed it – another steep walk home!!

Steve’s birthday tomorrow – seems funny being away from home – miss you all. ❤️🎉

We finally managed to coincide a ‘day off’ with sunshine  + being near a safe swimming beach – Trebarwith Strand.  Still a hike and a half from our ‘Surf Shack’ but well worth it to enjoy some waves and a spot of sunbathing.  The sea was so warm – honest!

A comfortable stay in Marshgate last night – Roz and Roger were really friendly and accommodating B&B hosts.  Popped up to the village pub for ‘Steak Night’ dinner.  After another delicious breakfast this morning (all local produce including homemade bread and preserves) Steve headed out to start the walk from Crackington Haven … in torrential rain!!  Roz kindly drove me to Boscastle where I mooched around for a while in museum, shops, cafe etc.  And then took a little walk up the coastal path to meet Steve.  

We both headed out then along the coastal path to Tintagel … the guide had promised an easier walk from there on in.  Still a number of ups and downs and some pretty giddy steep drops to the side on what was a particularly blowy day.  Made it in fairly good time though and found ourselves amongst the throng of tourists in Tintagel.

Stocked up on goodies and set off to find our surf shack … and what a find.  

It’s so cool!! We’re so cool!!  Just wish I could say that they’re our surf boards – body boards wouldn’t quite cut it!!  We go up the ladder to our bed.  

Sunshine’s fully out now and we’ll shortly be sitting in the sea view garden tucking into a glass or two of the wine kindly left for us by our lovely host Jo.