Well you just would although the weather is a lot better for walking than being on the beach (bloody rain!) however that’s all gonna change now we’re in Cornwall, this is ‘yer’ actual sign on the SW Coastal Path….

One of the highlights of the travels has been the people we have been meeting either at the nightly stopovers or on the walking, and also some of the quite random objects, both large and small that you come across, for example in probably 75% of the places you cannot get a phone / satellite signal but then you see these little babies:-

Today saw another ten miles knocked off with the mostly up and down walk from Bude to Crackington Haven where we have now settled into a lovely B&B at Cornish Valley View with the last pressing item of the business for today being dragging our lazy a…s up to the village pub for dinner, this is the aforementioned Crack Haven and the rather lovely beach / harbour / village / pub / houses in fact everything is here:-

Hartland Quay – so sad to be leaving this stunning corner of Devon today – have spent 24 extremely peaceful and chilled hours here ❤️. Would recommend a visit.

Have just waved Steve off as he tackles this 15 miles of ‘severe’ coastline to Bude – and so starts the Cornwall phase.  I’m opting for a less life-endangering approach – taxi (no buses on Sundays!)

         The pathway to Bude …..

Been at this walking lark now for nine days and have seen off Somerset, whilst tomorrow will see us entering Cornwall and leaving Devon behind! A few stats from this week: We have covered over 60 miles (most of these miles were either up or down but not flat), we have also taken over 150,000 steps (Garmin figures not me counting!) in the last seven days!  Today’s journey was thankfully only 10 miles although of course the obligatory hills, thrills and mud were involved between Clovelly and Hartland Quay, which is also known as “shipwreck coast” and spotted this sign along the cliff path although it seems dozens of vessels have gone down over the years:-Also saw this memorial for a Wellington Bomber that never made it back to RAF Chivenor during WW11 having got caught in storms and crashed into the cliffs, its great that people are still making the effort to put wreaths in place!

Well today was the muddiest day so far and extremely challenging and long!  Look at my boots – looking a little different to the photo on our first post!! After 7 days of walking you could say they’re pretty lived in!!

It said it was to be a 11 mile walk but we reckoned it was more like 15 miles.  Whereas the last few days we’d managed some ‘holding hands’ walking ❤️ today we were back to Steve either being 20 paces ahead or protectively following me in my trail as I inched my way up and down the steep inclines.  Again a lot of woodland walking with odd glimpses of seascape.  Flora and fauna in abundance but lots of slippery overgrown paths armed with stingers and nettles of all varieties.  How Steve continues to wear shorts each day I don’t know – he’s clearly proud of his increasingly muscular, toned and tanned calves!!!

It took us 6 hours to reach Clovelly where our exceptionally kind airbnb host John came to meet us and drive us to his lovely home in Hartland Village, and we met his equally friendly wife Val.  Talk about ‘arrive as guests, leave as friends’ – this was certainly the case – we felt so at home – the four of us spent a fabulous evening together, having dinner at Hartland Quay Hotel and we enjoyed hearing about the adventures John and Val had experienced in their working lives – gave us food for thought!

At the beginning of the day, as we left Westward Ho! I spotted this sign – I know it’s a bit sacrilegious (sorry Car!) but it made me chuckle (and think of you Karen and Caroline) …. and I just knew there was a good chance it would be happening later … and so it did with my lovely new friend Val.  

Having stayed in Bideford last night, we needed to get back to Instow to resume the coastal walk to Westward Ho.  This involved getting the bus from Bideford to Instow and walking back through Bideford (3 miles) on the way to Westward Ho – we could so easily have cheated, after all who would know!?  But of course we did it by the book – honest Joes or ‘mugs!?’ Relatively flat start, more Tarka trail (see pic below) and then it got more scenically interesting as we left Bideford. 

An 11 mile walk today took us through a variety of terrain and scenic experiences – Woodland Hills, through pretty seaside towns and villages, sand dunes, exposed golf courses, sand and pebble beaches – something for everyone!  We even had an ice-cream stop and a lunch stop today!  

On the approach to Westward Ho we were so nearly blown off our feet – rain and gail force winds – it was kite surfer’s paradise but we were two drenched rats when we dribbled into the town.  Somehow the name of the town kept me going – such a cheery tally ho sort of word.  Didn’t feel the town lived up to its name though, not that we hung around very long.  Caught the bus back to Bideford where we’re staying for a second night.  Will be heading back to Westward Ho tomorrow where we’ll pick up the path to Clovelly – back on the ‘challenging’ routes – help!!

As today’s walk was to be a flat walk, we made the decision to have a day off walking boots – went for the lighter approach of trainers.  

Our airbnb hosts in Braunton were Sarah and Tommy, a lovely young couple and they had provided a beautiful ensuite room – we tucked into muesli, croissant and nutella, toast and jam before heading out.  Walked back into the village to pick up the coastal path, we set a fair pace!  Averaged 17.5 minutes a mile over the day, not bad for a couple of old’ uns!!  A pleasant stroll along the Tarka Trail, a disused railway line, named after Tarka the Otter.  Passed a large Marine base as well as a troop of young weary looking marines being herded up the Trail, rucksacks on back – said hello and smiled at each and every one – felt so sorry for them!! The walk took us via Branstaple and continued on and on …. the long ‘unwinding’ road!  We were joined at parts by swooping swallows, so beautiful to watch these elegant birds.  Stopped for lunch at a cafe in Fremington – a converted railway station.  Delicious baguettes and lashings of tea!!

A mile or so further on we came across a young lad selling tea and cakes from a trike stall – had another cuppa and a chat – one of the lovely things about this trip is the people we are meeting.  Although rain had been forecast we mostly walked in dry and sometimes sunny weather.  Now we are in our room in Bideford, the heavens have opened.  Staying tonight in Sue’s family home – beautiful room and a very welcoming host.  

Set off nice and early – the walk started on the two miles of Woolacombe’s golden sands (voted Best Beach in 2015 and 2016) then we headed gently up the cliff – such stunning scenery along the way – along through Croyde and Staunton Sands – so longed to be in there surfing the waves.  

Then the path took us inland, avoiding sand dunes and leading us up the estuary to Braunton.  This involved more woodland walking which provided shade on what was the hottest day so far, crossing a golf course and up some very very long dusty paths.  

Had some followers along the way!!

Today has been the easiest day so far – all 15 miles of it …. put it this way, I would do it again whereas I will NEVER walk between Minehead and Combe Martin again!!  😊

It’s Steve and Dee and I have to admit that we did not expect such hills and soooo many of them, we now expect to climb a hill at every stage. Thanks to my Redway Runners training I have this year run a half marathon in 1 hour and 46 minutes, yesterday it took me nearly two hours longer to cover about the same distance but check the graphs over the last couple of days for the climbs along with the descents which are often even harder! 

By slightly different means Dee decided that the hills and thrills of the coastal path were best covered by taxi leaving Steve to walk / run the 14 miles, which was duly completed in 3 hours 45 minutes. Considering the terrain these early parts of the walk are very difficult however we are in Woolacombe and I even took a picture of the sign cos I was really struggling with the spelling (two o’s or two l’s) well here it is…..

Breakfast served by Cefin who entertained us with his music knowledge and friendly banter.  Over breakfast I finally decided that I would tackle today’s walk – face my fears.  And I was rewarded with the most stunning views of the journey so far, truly amazing – we walked much closer to the coastline today and although you had to watch your footing all the way – rocky paths and sheer drops to the side – the scenery was inspiring.  We came across pretty waterfalls, mountain goats (decided we’ve become mountain goats ourselves!!), cattle, sheep, an array of butterflies, birds and wild flowers – magnificent.  The weather was perfect, bright but not too hot – no rain.  

In fact I was telling myself that today was my favourite day so far. …. then I took a stumble at the foot of Hangman Cliffs, luckily not too much damage but it shook me up.  And then the climb up Great Hangman … even Steve was nervous and later said he kept thinking what would Tom and Alice think of him for bringing me there!?  He took my hand and guided and encouraged me up the steep incline and we made it to the top in one piece.  Rewarded ourselves with some lovely chocolate at what is the highest sea cliff in England – 1043 feet.  

It took the best part of 7 hours to complete today’s walk – even the last downhill part seemed to go on for ever.  Seriously question these Coastal Path mileage signs.  We checked into another fabulous airbnb – Cranleigh House – vegetarian help yourself breakfast, yoga sessions available, large comfy bedroom, fabulous host – Catherine.  Raining again so just crossed the road for dinner – Pack of Cards pub – stunning food – chose pasta for the carbs.  

Thanks to:  (1) Anne for the walking poles – helped me avoid a more serious accident today.   (2) Alli for the emergency ration chocolate.  (3) Caroline for introducing me to toe protectors. (4) Lynda for the clothes recommendations – they’ve proved to be perfect. (5) Sarah Jane Bird for the glucose sweets that Steve found in his shorts pocket! (6) Geraldine for the little heart that keeps me inspired. (7) All our family and friends for your support and encouragement). ❤️