Well we’re 7 days into this trip and have been making small steps into our exploration of the area. This first week has involved a lot of chilling, getting to know Benalmadena, Fuengirola and Malaga … all at a slow pace – largely due to a foot injury Steve sustained on the explorer run before leaving MK … and sadly recovery has been slow (and ongoing)!! So no big walks as yet and even sightseeing has been limited – the physio has declared that rest is the order of the day. Not that the chilled days on the beach and the gentle sightseeing strolls haven’t been appreciated – to be honest I don’t think I’ve EVER felt so rested … AND … I can finally keep pace with my limp-along hubbie!

Friday 1st March 2019

Very much enjoyed our first visit to the local supermarket – stocking up with Serrano ham, manchego, olives, pimentos, Spanish tomatoes, the tastiest of fruit, crusty bread … and then the wine. Steve’s eyes were popping out of his head at the crazily cheap prices …. just how do you choose? – he spent more time on this aisle than the rest of the week’s shop altogether.

Returned home and had our first lunch feast on the balcony – a bit of everything …. and everything is SO tasty – we’re becoming such foodies – Spanish foodies. The haze of the morning had lifted and our view of the sea was now becoming clearer.

Took our first drive down the hill to the nearest beach- Playa de Bil Bil and spent a couple of hours relaxing in the sun. Steve had a bit of a snooze (resting his foot … and eyelids!) and I took a walk along the beach, paddling in the near on icy water – nobody seems to be swimming!

Afterwards we took a short drive up into the hills – our apartment is fairly high up into the hills, away from the hustle and bustle of the coastal accommodations. To be honest, I hadn’t realised that Benalmadena was the metropolis it is – I had imagined white sun-drenched hillside villas, sloping down to quiet beaches – but it’s massive – high-rise hotels and hundreds and thousands of apartment blocks …. but with the most stunning backdrop of mountains and blue blue sky.

Back home and of course it was beer/G&T o’clock … whilst looking longingly at the apartment’s pool which is apparently too cold for swimming. Well at least the ducks are making use of it!

Whilst sipping, Steve started to research Benalmadena and discovered its history of earthquakes and tsunamis – oh well, I guess there had to be something!

Saturday 2nd March

It had been a fairly stormy night and this morning the wind was still giving the palm trees a good old blasting. Determined to get back to his running soon, Steve wanted to continue resting his foot, giving it every chance of recovery, so I set off solo for a walk of the local area. Took in a fair few hills, up and down – stunning views down to the sea and up into the mountains. Walked for a couple of miles at a fair pace so felt that at last I was getting some exercise … even got the lycra out.

Later in the day we took an Uber up to Benalmadena Pueblo, the original part of this area, with its whitewashed houses and cobbled streets – this was the Benalmadena of my imagination. We had heard that there was to be a carnival parade so got excited about a colourful fiesta fest – however, it turned out to be a few children dressed as pirates, princesses and fairies and a few Dads in Spanish dresses … I’m sure there’ll be others! Stopped for pizza and vino and soaked up the atmosphere of this old Spanish town. Didn’t wander far on the cobbles though – not conducive to foot recovery! Will defintely be back to explore more.

Sunday and Monday 3rd & 4th March 2019

Both of these days were particularly hot so, of course, it had to be beach and we took a drive to Fuengirola both days where we knew we could secure sun loungers and shade (it’s important business foot resting you know)! 6 euros equipped us with all we needed and included a free drink each. I snuck in a 5 mile speed walk along the promenade the first day – joining a whole army of Lycra clad ladies doing similar struts, all of us weaving in and out of the more leisurely beach goers! And the rest of the day we lounged and read (both getting through so many books) and lo and behold … I actually swam in the sea. I can’t lie, it was freezing – but as always once you’re under it’s gorgeous – it’s just the getting under that hurts!

On the Monday I didn’t fit my walk in – I’d had a little too much wine the night before so just rested … and swam (nothing like freezing water to clear the head).

Steve’s comment of the day: “Day 4, still no friends!”

Tuesday 5th March 2019

Decided to venture out to Malaga today, by train. We wanted to check out the journey as we’re booked on a tapas tour there on Saturday evening. Drove to the station – stopping off to navigate the recycling and waste disposal systems on the way – parked up near Tivoli World for 1 euro for the whole day (bargain). Phrase book in hand, I delivered my best Spanish request for ‘two return tickets to Malaga please’ … and he actually understood me … “muchas gracias.” (No Caroline and Jim, I didn’t ask for a table for eight fish 🤣). Lovely clean and air-conditioned trains – passengers could do with a few more manners when embarking and disembarking however – Steve managed to stand on a lady’s foot who stepped up as he was stepping off — his bad foot too!!

Loved our first glimpse of Malaga – didn’t get far as gentle strolling only – but certainly got a feel for later visits, things to do, places to go. Walked around the moneyed Marina area – some rather delicious yachts moored and a selection of upmarket bars and cafes – with KFC and McDs thrown in of course …. plus Hard Rock Cafe opening soon.

We managed to get ourselves lost on the way back to the station and Steve (being a man) not being one to ask for directions left it to me to practice my Spanish a little further. I asked a lovely lady “Donde esta l’estacion?” (I learnt ‘donde esta’ … (where is) when I very first came to Spain when I was 18, and I’ve never forgotten it – so today it came in handy. This very sweet young lady caringly guided us up the road like two lost grandparents and set us off in the appropriate direction. We chatted and found out she was Russian and came to Malaga to visit her children – so we sort of made a new friend – no Facebook contact however!!

Once back in Benalmadena, we stopped off at a couple of local bars for sundowners …. as you do.

Noticed we were the only consumers wearing ‘summer gear’ – everyone else was swaddled in jumpers, hoodies and coats … and not another exposed leg in sight – just us then! Haven’t come across that many Brits yet – seems to be largely a Spanish area. Have to admit I was slightly worried after watching recent episodes of ‘Bargain Brits abroad.’

Wednesday 6th March 2019

As had been forecast, today is mega windy and overcast. So it’s been a day of housework (yes, we’re in an airbnb apartment and we actually have to do our own cleaning, washing etc. – it’s not a holiday you know!! 🤣) supermarket stock up and blogging. A big rest day today for Steve – foot up and showing some slow signs of recovery. Those of you that know my marathon man husband will know how much he is missing his running and generally active life – please heal soon!

So blog done, I’m off to do some yoga – Namaste 🙏

We’re back on the rambling road … this adventure is taking us to the Andalucía region of Spain. We’ve packed running and gym gear, walking gear and yoga mat – so intending to be pretty active … well, let’s just see about that!! 😘

We’re excited about ‘leaving’ again. I know some of you can’t fathom us out, constantly packing and moving around, sleeping in other people’s beds – but we love it …. and there’s so much to explore and so many experiences to encounter in our retirement. 21 months in and we’ve certainly been around – but we’re nowhere near finished! Have been home for quite a spell this time as had a few things to fit in – my 60th Birthday celebrations, Christmas with the family, Emma and John’s outstanding wedding day (following months of preparation), the old medical checks of varying types + £1,000 worth of unexpected dental treatment following Steve’s bridge collapse!

But now we’re sitting in Heathrow’s Terminal 5, awaiting our flight to Malaga. Bags checked in (after some late rearranging due to weight – the case that is!), the trauma of security navigated, a delicious late breakfast of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs in Giraffe, some duty free shopping naturally … and relax!

We’re staying in an Airbnb apartment for 6 weeks, near Benalmadena, so we will have one base (no rucksack on back!) – looking forward to making it our home for the duration. Hoping to do plenty of sightseeing and walking in this culturally rich area of southern Spain. One website describes Andalucía as “the Spain of the imagination, a dreamy sun-kissed land where passion, poetry and drama collide.” That’ll do for us.

Departure gate – Heathrow Terminal 5 – we’re ready to fly away again!

Arrived in Malaga in good time. Packed flight as aircraft small – a few arguments about hand luggage space (not us I might add). A little bumpy at times, made worse by a group of schoolgirls near us who screamed like we were on some mega rollercoaster. Pleasant evening temperature on arrival and all went swimmingly with car hire process – has to be a first!!

Our ‘wheels’ for the next 6 weeks – they upgraded us from a Seat to a Citroen Cactus

Only a 15 minute drive to our apartment so no big trauma. We were met by Sue and Anne who showed us around – still no hiccups. It’s always strange arriving in the dark though – can’t wait to see our surroundings in the morning. Too tired to go out so toast and cheese, peanuts and a bottle of red wine it was (left by the Airbnb as a welcome pack).

And woke up this morning after a comfortable night’s sleep, had breakfast on the balcony from which we surveyed the locality. Beautiful pool (but clearly too cold to use), gardens, tennis courts and the sea not too far away – oh yes! 😎

Now off to explore what the local area has to offer + the inevitable first day Supermarket stock up. Here’s to some exciting Andalucía discoveries 😊💃🏽

Monday 5th November 2018

Unfortunately felt a wee bit delicate this morning so didn’t venture too far – had a brilliant, but boozy, evening yesterday with Fran and Andy and also Tim, who had all just arrived in Hikkaduwa – all set for the test match starting on Tuesday. Did plenty of swimming in the hotel pool and engaged in my new passion for ‘Desert Island Discs’ podcasts (as recommended by Judy) – particularly atmospheric when listening to them on the beach with the soundtrack of waves.

Early afternoon we set off for Unawatuna – there was a planned Barmy Army pre-test party on the beach there. Steve, Tim and I treated ourselves to a driver (rather than the tuk tuk option) as it was a fairly long journey. Bagged ourselves a good table at the Lucky Tuna bar, under cover, which paid off later when the heavens opened – and the place was rammed. Karen, George and Howie joined us. A fun night – Steve had a good go at keeping up with the younger members of our crew on the Lion Beer front – they’re rather large bottles!!! He was however the only one of us mingling in with the Barmy Army crowd as they started their singalong … “And did those feet in ancient time” …. (Jerusalem) 🎶 “We are the army, the Barmy Army” … 🎶 etc. etc. etc. I did manage to whisk him off at a sensible time – just in time I would say.

Tuesday 6th November 2018

The first day of the test match in Galle … the excitement was building. We were up early for a walk to the local train station – paid all of about 25p each to catch a 3rd class ride into Galle.

We met up with Tim at Galle station and scooted off for a sausage roll breakfast, washed down with incredibly sweet and milky coffee. Once in the ground we found our seats – we were booked into the Harbour Stand which had very posh white satin seat covers – a bit like a wedding.

We were amazed how they had transformed the ground since our last visit here, lots of temporary stands in place, all looking quite elegant. Not quite fully polished however (the toilets left a lot to be desired – and that’s an understatement)! … and not quite ready – as the game was starting there was a dog running around on the pitch which had to be chased off and they were still fixing up the frill to our stand. Also, we were well into the 5th over before they finished putting the boundary pads in place and up until lunchtime still placing the advertising boards – stadium management at its best!

England started the batting and lost a few early wickets … so a little shaky – more than made up for it later on though. A fantastic atmosphere, about 6,000 in the crowd, predominantly English. Hordes of spectators too on the Galle Fort wall. It was a great day of cricket and, believe it or not, the rain stayed away.

Caught the last train back to Hikkaduwa. Had dinner at Refresh Restaurant – tucked into a delicious cashew nut curry – had to chuckle at the menu wording!

Wednesday 7th November 2018

Plummed for a leisurely morning at poolside and then caught the more speedy train from Hikkaduwa into Galle.

Steve and Tim joined George and Howie for some more cricket and Karen and I escaped for a little ladies time. We took a tuk tuk into the old town – stopped off at the Amangalla Hotel so that we could book a table for afternoon tea. Intended to go shopping at this point but decided on a glass of Prosecco first instead – strangely enough we were still there quaffing Prosecco when 3.00pm came round and it was time for our afternoon tea. Such an elegant place and we had the full works of delicate sandwiches, savoury pastries, sweet pastries, cakes and scones/cream & jam – we felt like real ladies … and very full ladies at that. We spent the afternoon nattering, exchanging our life stories and laughing at all sorts. Did manage to leave at 5.00pm for a bit of shopping in Galle’s classy shops before we met up with our men.

Thursday 8th November 2018

Decided to take a day off cricket today. Steve got up early for a run – I have decided to address the whole exercise issue when I get home now!! Spent a beautiful morning at Turtle Beach – so perfect to watch these amazing sea creatures calmly weave their way in amongst the bathers.

Had lunch on the beach but unfortunately had settled ourselves at the only cafe that didn’t have Wi-fi. Steve by this time was itching to find out how the cricket was going so we headed back to the hotel and ‘endured’ some lazy hours chilling at the pool, listening to Talk Sport!

Met Tim in the evening and had dinner again at Refresh – more cashew nut curry – I love it. Poor Tim had travelled back from Galle by tuk tuk in the pouring rain and the tuk tuk had broken down 3 times – quite a journey. The torrential rain persisted all evening … so much so we were forced to resort to cocktails after dinner as far too wet to leave! A self-inflicted lock-in!

Friday 9th November 2018

Our last full day in Sri Lanka after 5 fabulous weeks. Decided on a bit of beach time before we travelled into Galle. Our lovely tuk tuk driver, Roisin, drove us to a pretty tucked away beach that has magnificent coral and marine life – popular for snorkelling. Just standing on the shore you could see hundreds of fish, all shapes, colours and sizes – you didn’t even need to snorkel or get into a glass bottom boat.

As usual we were joined by a dog on the beach – you can never go anywhere without seeing a dog here. And sadly a lot of them are not exactly blessed with good looks – they remind me of the hyenas out of the Lion King.

At lunchtime we set off for Galle for what promised to be the last day of this test – England in a strong position to win. The train was delayed so we put our trust in Roisin to tuk tuk us to the cricket ground – as it turned out it was OK.

Once in the ground, we met up with the others and enjoyed the next few hours of England bowling in the final innings … and we won …. hooray 🎉 Admittedly, Karen and I had a good old natter during this time and everytime a big cheer went up we had to confess to missing the wicket. A few beers were consumed in this time too and on victory there was much merriment. Even a good old-fashioned streaker!

We all went to celebrate in the very salubrious establishment called Joe’s Bar in the Sydney Hotel – one drink there sufficed. Moved on to the other extreme in visiting The Fort Printers Hotel in Old Galle town – shared a very decent bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Managed to get a taxi home (although the driver was not sure of the way) and popped into Buddes Bar for a final meal on Hikkaduwa’s beautiful beach. Fran and Andy joined us for a drink – so nice to catch up with them before leaving.

Saturday 10th November 2018

Big farewells to our lovely friends at Vesma Villas and we were given such a heartwarming send off. I think we’ll be back – how could we not!?

Today we fly back home, in time to celebrate my 60th Birthday at the end of the week! It’s been an amazing trip – some fabulous sights visited, wonderful people met and new friends made … and of course cricket was a big part of this journey – it’s been a pleasure to watch our team play so well and achieve great things.

We will miss you Sri Lanka … but looking forward to the sanity of English roads! 😊

Monday 29th October – Sunday 4th November 2018

After a lot of moving around, sightseeing and cricket over the last few weeks, we really fancied a chilled week – and that has gone exactly to plan.  We feel so at home back in Vesma Villas, in the pretty village of Thiranagama, in Hikkaduwa.  It’s a 10 bedroom villa complex tucked away amongst fruit trees, coconut palms and paddy fields – so incredibly pretty and peaceful.  And the staff are delightful, especially Asie who is just always there with a big smile, ready to provide whatever is needed.

We’ve sort of fallen into this relaxed daily routine.  Breakfast at the hotel (always freshly and deliciously cooked by Monty, served by Asie.  There’s just one other couple staying at the hotel – the lovely Claire and Andy from Yorkshire – so normally we have a chinwag over breakfast.  And the most amazing thing happened … just in conversation we realised that we know Claire’s best friend – Bobbi Jo Harrison.  Until recently, Bobbi ran an hotel in Phuket and it just so happens that Steve and I stayed there for a month last year … such a small world.

After breakfast we normally spend a few leisurely hours sunbathing, swimming (I get my 50 laps in a day),  Steve tries to fit in an early morning run and I do some yoga – we just generally luxuriate in the peace and serenity of our little haven.  The only noise being the birds, the odd dog bark, relaxing music (c/o Claire and Andy) … oh and occasionally the washing machine!  In the last couple of days, we’ve been treated to some pink gin and tonic at lunchtime (how decadent) – kindly provided by our new Yorkshire friends.

Then early afternoon we take a walk through the pretty village of Thiranagama to get to the beach … and every day is different.  We pass by the paddy fields, we see cows grazing at the side of the road, numerous wild dogs just strolling around, beautiful peacocks in large musters running through the fields … and the village folk so ready with their smiles and hellos – some walking, lots on bikes, young children with their fascinated faces (I guess we stand out like sore thumbs – our villa is a bit off the beaten track).

So the afternoons are generally beach time and in contrast, the beach can be a fairly busy place – there are restaurants, bars and cafes along the whole strip.  The sunbeds are free and then you buy drinks and food from whichever establishment you have based yourself at.  And they’re all pretty good.  Our favourites are Neelas, The Drunken Monkey, Buddes, Sunny’s and Chill Space – so we’ve tried a few.  The beach is gorgeous but unfortunately the sea is really only for strong and confident swimmers.  The waves are so high and the currents strong – it looks great fun – there are plenty of swimmers, surfers and bodyboarders … but this time we’re just watching.  We tried it last time we were here – it’s not for us.  We’ve been told that there are 4-5 fatalities a year here with rip tides!!  But we’re happy relaxing on our beds and having the occasional paddle – also kept busy with the frequent visits from beach-sellers – products and services ranging from sarongs, wooden elephants, monkey and cobra photo opportunities, spices and Sri Lankan flags.  My favourite has to be the team of men who look about 90, generally with one tooth, carrying a little plastic bag of aloe vera, offering foot massage!  Haven’t been tempted yet!

Most days we stay on the beach for drinks and then early dinner so we can catch the sunset – all very casual dining.  Mostly living on curries, chicken & rice and seafood – not complaining however, the food’s amazing.  Naturally accompanied by Lion Beer / wine / cocktails.

Sometimes we go back to the hotel to freshen up first – especially if we’re meeting friends.  It’s been fabulous meeting up again with Karen, George and Howie (previously called Harry in error) in Hikkaduwa.  We’ve had dinner and drinks together a few nights – such great company – lots of laughs.  We’ll be seeing them at the cricket again next week and Karen and I are hoping to slope off for some girlie time!   We also had a fun evening on the beach with Claire and Andy – I started off planning an alcohol-free night but, best-laid plans and all that – great fun.

 

No sightseeing trips this week, just pure relaxation – it’s been fantastic.  Today three more friends are arriving out from the UK, ready for the test matches which start on Tuesday in Galle.  So, let’s see what next week (our last week in Sri Lanka) brings in the land of palm trees.

 

 

Thursday 25th October 2018

Another day in our lovely ‘Ellen’s Place’ hotel and another delicious breakfast. While we wait for our eggs to be cooked each morning, they provide us with freshly baked ‘warm from the oven’ cakes – sometimes banana cakes, sometimes pineapple cakes – ooh the calories!

Sorted out some laundry before leaving this morning – this item on the laundry list made me giggle – well at least it means that Steve’s not the last person in the world still using handkerchiefs!

So today’s plan was to ‘nip in’ to Immigration to renew our visa (we’re here longer than 30 days) and then head to the beach. Suffice to say there was no ‘nipping’ – a crowded, stressful and irritating 4 and a half hours ensued as we were passed from desk to desk, photographed, interviewed and endured long periods of waiting (including their lunch break)! Finally at a cost of $54 each our passports were returned with gleaming new visas.

Off to the beach we headed and enjoyed a late lunch and much needed coffee – the wind was already getting up and within a very short space of time the black clouds started to gather – so without even a swim we packed up and headed back to the hotel. The rain continued most of the evening … but we managed to fit in dinner at Sugar Bistro and then a quick night cap at The Cheers Bar. “Norm!…” (for any Cheers fans out there)?

Friday 26th October 2018

A pretty straightforward day today – arranged to meet Richard and Judy at Sugar Beach. Headed out there nice and early to maximise the day. It’s a beautiful beach we’ve discovered, predominantly a locals’ beach – just the odd tourist. Today it was fabulous to be there as there was lots of fishing activity. It’s incredible the lengths they go to to bring in a few fish – not sure how lucrative it can be as there’s a lot of men to share the profits.

We got a couple of great swims in and Steve even got to use the restaurant’s bodyboard – so he was in his element playing in the waves.

Richard and Judy unfortunately ended up at a different end of the beach so we didn’t get to meet up – made plans for tomorrow.

Had the usual torrential rain in the evening so rather than walk we got a taxi to the Italian restaurant Bayleaf which we’d been to on our first night in Colombo. Fabulous meal again and we were entertained with fireworks as apparently there’d been a sudden change of Prime Minister … just like that!

Saturday 27th October 2018

Poor Steve’s having a real time of it … he had a troublesome night as he developed a sore throat, chesty cough and some breathing difficulties. For someone who’s so rarely ill he’s certainly packing it in on this holiday! At 5.00am he was drawn to look out the window at the sound of a marching band … he initially thought he had become delirious. But apparently there was a full-on parade, marching band, fire-eaters, whirling dervishes … the works! The hotel staff were oblivious to it when we asked them, but decided it was probably connected to the installation of the new Prime Minister.

After breakfast we hit the streets of downtown Colombo 8 to find a pharmacy. Then equipped with cough mixture and lozenges we walked a but further to track down an ATM. Now Sri Lanka IS a beautiful country … but not so the back streets of Colombo. Many of the buildings and pavements are in a state of decay and sadly ridiculously dirty. Our pretty and clean hotel just seems to have been planted in a ‘not so pretty and clean’ area of town. But it was all an experience and even Steve with his breathing problems soldiered on amidst the fumes emanating from the hordes of tuk tuks and their cheap petrol. We had just been discussing tripping hazards when literally about 20 yards from the hotel Steve went flying off the pavement into the gutter … into the biggest and muddiest puddle we’d seen all morning. He was covered in mud from head to toe and had grazed his hand and knee …. but mostly his pride was wounded. We managed to sneak back into the hotel unseen and all was recovered.

Once cleaned up we set off for the Mount Lavinia Hotel where we were meeting Richard, Judy and family. This is another colonial heritage hotel and has great charm. We had some time around the pool, some buffet lunch then spent a short time on the beach. All really pleasant and great to catch up again with the Benmores … but we had to head off mid-afternoon because of course there was cricket this evening – and we couldn’t possibly be late!

This time we got it right … we had pre-booked Hushni to take us to the stadium and to meet us later (to avoid a repeat of Tuesday’s getting home nightmare). We got there in plenty of time and enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere of this T20 game – the Sri Lankan supporters were out in force.

The England boys did well from the start and it was exciting to watch. I can understand why the younger folk prefer T20 to test matches – it seemed a lot more lively (probably not supposed to say that)! But inevitably the rain came, not torrential this time but the covers came on and play was postponed. We made the decision to cut our losses and get clear of the stadium in case there was a sudden evacuation. A wise decision – Hushni met us, with his lovely wife in the car too, and we returned to the hotel to watch the resumed match from the comfort of our bed, with snacks!

Sunday 28th October 2018

More suitcase packing and more farewells today as we leave the lovely staff at Ellen’s Place. It wasn’t the greatest of locations but everything else about the hotel was amazing, including the warm hospitality.

Hushni arrived promptly at 10.00am for our drive from Colombo to Hikkaduwa. Before we left the city we took a little tour of Galle Face, the Fort area and the bustling markets of Pettah.

It was a reasonable drive down, some incredibly busy areas where lots of beeping went on, particularly if a bus happened to be tailing us. Once on the highway it was a lot quicker and smoother. Reaching the green forest areas felt such a welcome relief after the mad city life we have experienced this week – it just looked and felt so fresh. Reaching the familiar area of Hikkaduwa and its coastline felt like coming home and as we wound our way down the village lanes to Vesma Villas we felt so excited. This is where we stayed earlier in the year.

And what a welcome we had … all the staff came out to greet us with genuine excitement. We were presented with the most beautiful and scented of flower garlands and proudly escorted to our chalet which had been dressed up fit for a King and Queen.

We are back in the Sri Lanka we love … and we can breathe the beautifully fresh unpolluted air. Here’s to two weeks of relaxation. 😎

Tuesday 23rd October 2018

To be perfectly honest this was not a good day!!

Started off keen with an early rise & breakfast, so we could get to the cricket in plenty of time.  Luckily we got into conversation with another hotel guest who pointed out it was a day and night game, starting at 2.30pm!   Not quite that keen.  So had a leisurely morning and big catch-up blog time.

When it came time to go all the Ubers seemed to be stuck in traffic – the city grinds to a standstill early afternoon as the schools chuck out.   Our hotel chappie sourced us a car from elsewhere and so off we set, not quite as early as planned but we were on our way!  As we inched our way through chaos there was a sudden bang … a tuk tuk had driven in to the back of our car.  The two drivers proceeded to rant and rave leaving us deserted in the middle of about 4 lanes of heavy traffic … and time was getting on!   Eventually they decided to pull over to continue their ‘discussion.’  So we took the opportunity to get out, pay up and flag down a tuk tuk in desperation!  We got to the stadium just as the first ball was bowled.  Phew!

We met up with Richard, Judy and family … the sun was shining and there was some good cricket – the Sri Lankans batted well.  During the day we enjoyed a few beers together, ate a bit of chicken and rice (as you do!) and all was well.

We marvelled at the pelicans flying overhead and as it got towards dusk the bats arrived … some extremely large ones too!  England came into bat and there were some early wickets … we tried to keep the faith but our batsmen were dropping like flies.

And then came the rain.  And extremely ferocious thunder and lightening.   So the end of play was announced and Sri Lanka had won the day – they genuinely deserved it.  We however now had the problem of getting home in this most torrential of rain.

Thousands of bodies were leaving the stadium en masse – the local roads and transport systems just weren’t up to this volume of traffic.  We had to wade though deep puddles of muddy water along the edge of what felt like the M25 … we walked and walked in darkness, in the pouring rain, until we found what we thought might be a suitable place to book an Uber – no such luck – the main roads were gridlocked too.  So we walked on, not really even sure of the direction to our hotel.  Eventually, again in desperation, we took a tuk tuk.  And boy did we regret that – he drove like a bat out of hell, taking us in a large loop around the city, down lots of bumpy passages and side roads, and half an hour later passing where he had picked us up from.  I was pretty much traumatised – and after an incredibly near miss when he drove through red traffic lights, Steve demanded he stopped (+ a few other words)!  … and we got out and walked the rest of the way.   It really was two hours of hell – we got back to the hotel drenched and fed up – that is definitely the last tuk tuk we will use in Colombo!

Wednesday 24th October 2018

We slept off all the stress of the previous day – today just had to be better.  We set off to find the beach area of Mount Lavinia – nothing like sea, sand and sunshine to make the world feel better.  And that’s just what we found on Sugar Beach.  Rocked up at a seafood restaurant that allowed us to use their sun loungers as long as we bought refreshments.  It was a simple place but food and hospitality was superb.  Our first sea swim of the holiday – fabulous, we had a perfect day.

Today was a Poya Day which is a monthly full-moon inspired National Holiday for the Sri Lankans.  So the beach was full of local families and groups of youngsters enjoying themselves – it was lovely to watch them laughing in the waves and playing cricket on the shore.

We got back to the hotel just in time to avoid another heavy downpour.  We were determined to make up for our misery of last night, so got all dressed up and called a taxi to take us to a restaurant called Barnesbury’s that Steve had found online.  It was a stylish restaurant with a grand looking bar area – this was more like it!   My mouth watered as I settled in for my pre-dinner G&T … but it turned out they didn’t sell alcohol.  The waiter smugly informed us that we wouldn’t get alcohol anywhere tonight anyway, as it’s a Poya Day.    The food however was superb … as were the mocktails.

When we got back to Ellen’s Place, our bijou hotel, the lovely waiters allowed us some beer.  They informed us earlier in the week that they’re not allowed an alcohol licence as they are near a school – they can sell their local Lion Beer however as it’s only 4.4%!!

So city versus beach … it’s beach for us everytime.

Sunday 21st October 2018

The drive from Kandy to Colombo was an estimated 4 hours, but we agreed to make a couple of stops on the way.  The first stop was to the Millennium Elephant Foundation Orphanage which is dedicated to improving the welfare of captive elephants in Sri Lanka.  As well as being able to be up close to the elephants, you are provided with clear information to the Foundation’s objective in rescuing working elephants from the logging industry and the howdah tourist industry.  We enjoyed our short time there, sitting with the elephants and watching them being walked and bathed.  Bare-back riding is still permitted but they are trying to replace this with ‘walking with elephant experiences’ instead.

We drove on through places such as Mawanella and Ambepussa – the traffic was busy but the roads of a good standard.  It was tree-lined pretty much all the way – coconut palms and jack fruit trees as well as other luscious vegetation and paddy fields – this country is SO green.  It was so interesting to find that at each settlement area they had their own area of expertise which was clearly evident in their roadside stalls – clay pots, leather, blow-up beach toys, cane/baskets, cashew nuts, spices and car-seats.

We stopped to have a light lunch in Ambepusso and then headed on through Nettanbuwa and eventually into the busy city of Colombo.  Sheik found our little 3* hotel tucked away behind some building works and so we settled into our new home for the next 7 days.  Fond farewells to Sheik who has been an amazing driver for us in Kandy – would thoroughly recommend him.

Our new hotel is called ‘Ellen’s place,’ named after a former Prime Minister’s wife.  It’s small and friendly – just how we like it.  Having since discovered the delights of Galle Face however, we sort of wish we’d splashed out on some 5* living – but hey ho, we’re pensioners!  We ventured out for a walk in the evening, finding ourselves a beautiful Italian restaurant to eat in (still avoiding spice) … and it was fabulous.

 

Monday 22nd October 2018

Had a bit of a lay in, followed by a delicious breakfast with real bacon!!  Then we called our first Sri Lankan Uber!  It’s so much cheaper and hassle-free.  Had a lovely driver called Alex who spoke perfect English and knew everything there is to know about cricket.  We stopped off first to collect our cricket tickets – then another Uber to the train station to check out options for travelling to Hikkaduwa next week.  The sweet information man ensured us that the best option was to take a driver as taking our luggage onto a packed train would not be advisable – I was relieved … but Steve’s dream was shattered.  Next time I think we’ll be bringing rucksacks!

Then we walked … and we walked … in the baking heat, thinking we were heading to the seafront.  Turned out we were walking in the wrong direction.  Resorted to taking up the offer of a passing tuk tuk – in our haste, forgetting all the warnings to make sure it was a metered tuk tuk.  And so the crazy ride to Galle Face began … and just as we arrived at Galle Face we were flagged down by an angry policeman – the driver was told off big time and the policeman told us he was a dangerous driver “crazy in the head!”  To be honest we’ve had worst but at least it got us out of continuing the journey!

We had a lovely stroll along the promenade – great to be back on the coast again.  Stopped off at the plush 5* hotel – The Raj – for a juice and to envy how the other half live!  We sat at the poolside cafe area and looked longingly at the amazing swimming pool and loungers – being used by one resident only.  We checked but it was definitely for residents only – so mean.

We returned to our hotel and had a little splash in the small plunge pool and jacuzzi – still refreshing after our hot walkabout.

Then at 5.00pm we went to meet Richard and Judy at their most amazing 5* hotel – The Galle Face Hotel, oh it’s beautiful.  They had invited us to join them for sundowner drinks at the Pool Bar.  We also got to meet their 3 fabulous children – Aaron, Scott and Kathleen.  There was a large party of Naval Officers all dressed up handsomely in their whites, real ‘Officer and Gentleman’ stuff – just missing Richard Gere!  We had a couple of beers as we watched the sun go down (a little cloudy unfortunately).  At ‘the going down’ a set of pipers arrived on the scene and marched to the flag on the sea-wall, where it was lowered and removed – quite a spectacle.  We were also entertained by one of the hotel staff, dressed in colonial garb, whose job it was to use a catapult to shoo away persistent crows – hilarious!

 

After drinks, we joined the lovely Benmore family in a walk to the Cinnamon Hotel (yet another 5* establishment) where we dined in the Lagoon seafood restaurant.  Scott and Kathleen skilfully sorted out a selection of starters and main meals – choosing fish and seafood from the amazing fresh display in the centre.  We had such a fun evening – I tried octopus for the first time and loved it – the food and sauces were incredible … and some perfectly chilled white wine too.  We got back to our hotel at 10.30pm – that’s late for us these days!  A great evening, great company, great food, great wine – now hopefully a great sleep.

But what followed was a heavy night of rain and thunder!

 

Friday 19th October 2018

Steve was feeling a shade better today so we headed out early to find an alternative breakfast venue – local options were egg & onion or fish rolls so we headed back to the hotel for the more palatable option of eggs on toast (so English)!

We had decided on a trip to the Botanical Gardens this morning … thinking it was a 10 minute trip we bagged ourselves a tuk tuk.  It turned out to be more like 25 minutes and a fairly crazy 25 minutes at that … it’s like high-speed dodgems, how it all works I just don’t know.  I clung on to Steve most of the time with my eyes closed – but it got us to the most beautiful of places, definitely the best Botanical Gardens we have ever visited (and we’ve been to a few)!   First opened in the 1820s it’s so impressive, with the tallest of trees, stunning palm avenues, a section of pretty flowering trees, an orchid house with magnificent scents – and all kept in immaculate condition – full credit to the team of smiley gardeners.  Highly recommend a visit if ever you’re in Kandy.

And then another mad tuk tuk ride back to the hotel – another lung full of fumes!  I love tuk tuks in other areas of the country but in a busy city it’s not the most pleasurable of experiences.  Am I losing my sense of adventure – I hope not – I just prefer more chilled places.

The morning had pretty much washed Steve out as he was still not back to full strength. So we had a little pool time and then he crashed out for most of the afternoon and evening while I caught up on blogging.  The internet in the hotel is painfully slow so it took great effort and patience – but at least it killed the time while Steve continued his recovery.

 

Saturday 20th October 2018

Steve definitely on the mend – funny how it coincides with cricket day!  An early breakfast and then Sheik came to collect us to drive us to the stadium.  We met up with Richard and Judy in the ground and sat with them for the day.  It was perfect because Steve and Richard were able to sit together and talk all things cricket, and Judy and I got to sit together and talk all things not cricket (although we did concentrate on the game too)!

We saw a decent amount of cricket today, from 9.45am – 4.00pm – and then the heavens opened, so all was abandoned.  England won though on ‘Duckworth Lewis method.’  It’s all about the winning!

The drive home was torturous – heavy traffic from the cricket added to heavy rain – it took us over 2 hours to get back to the hotel, and our clothes were drenched.  Being a dark miserable evening we didn’t fancy venturing far … and Steve was still not ready for a return to spice so I’m embarrassed to admit that we crossed the road to eat in Pizza Hut.  As we tucked into our Margherita and coleslaw however, we had a great view of Sri Lankan city life from the window – passengers getting on and off buses while the buses were moving, pedestrians taking life in their hands crossing the zebra crossing, tuk tuks grinding to a halt to pick up fares with cars having to emergency stop behind them, dustbin men in flip flops clinging on precariously to the back of the lorry whizzing around the busy streets … there’s always so much life to observe in a city, just nice from the safety of an upstairs window.

 

Sunday 21st October 2018

So today we leave Kandy.  We had just left ourselves time to visit the Temple of the Tooth … and as the entrance was directly opposite our hotel it was a fairly simple task.  The temple houses the relic of the tooth of Buddha making it a significant temple – all Sri Lankan buddhists are required to visit once in their lifetime.  There has been some comings and goings with the tooth over the years and there is some debate as to ‘the tooth or not the tooth!’

It was a beautiful and serene experience however.  Once we got through the militant clothes check, we joined the throng of visitors, predominantly ladies in white cotton and broderie anglaise dresses, and walked along the path leading up to the temple, bearing our lotus flower offerings.  Once inside we mingled with the devotees as they prayed and laid their offerings – the interior elaborately carved and painted.

After the temple visit we managed to get checked out of the hotel, after a line up of smiley staff all waiting for their tip.  And so we set off on the long journey to Colombo.

Kandy’s been brilliant – we didn’t get to see as much as we possibly could have done due to ‘loose motion’ problems (as they like to call it here)!   I couldn’t help but think of the Burl Ives song …. Big Rock Candy Mountain … “oh, the buzzin’ of the bees and the cigarette trees, the soda water fountain, where the lemonade springs and the bluebird sings in that Big Rock Candy Mountain.”  We saw plenty of trees but not quite of the cigarette variety!

Colombo … here we come.

 

 

Tuesday 16th October 2018

Unfortunately Steve had been up most of the night with an upset tum (you know what I mean) and was feeling pretty washed out. So we skipped breakfast and took up post by the pool … with easy access to rest room facilities!! It was really hot this morning but the pool is a perfect temperature for cooling down and there’s shade under the trees. It’s lovely to watch the palm squirrels scurrying around and lots of different bird life. Not so much the cheeky monkeys who swing down from the palms and try to pinch anything going!… the pool staff are generally at hand to usher them away.

Steve decided to retire back to the room and I went to find some sustenance. Chanced upon Karen, George, Ciderman and Harry in the hotel bar (a lovely party of friends we had met in our Dambulla hotel) so stopped off and had some lunch in their company. They’d popped in for coffee and to view the hotel, which is a famous Kandy landmark, and had then planned to sightsee further. I left them to it and went back upstairs to nurse my poorly husband. Early evening I popped back down to find Steve some suitable food and, lo and behold, Karen, George, Ciderman and Harry were still in the bar, enjoying a sesh!! I was so chuffed when they invited me to join them so, after sorting Steve out, we all walked down the road to ‘The Pub’ where I modestly tucked into three large glasses of red wine and enjoyed a chat and many laughs. George, having finished his fish finger supper and with his rucksack securely attached to his back, gallantly escorted me back through the chaotic streets of Kandy (although I had to point him in the right direction!) to the safety of my hotel and back to the bedside of my still ailing husband. I’m sorry for Karen’s loss of a cultural afternoon, not having been able to extract ‘the lads’ from their beer and TV cricket, but her loss was my gain as I really enjoyed the company – thanks guys. 😊

Wednesday 17th October 2018

Steve felt a little improved but still delicate – we attempted some breakfast in the hotel’s fine dining room. A very grand setting – not such an inspiring breakfast buffet! Afterwards we took a walk around Kandy Lake which is just at the front of our hotel – an easygoing 3km walk. We saw lots of interesting ‘going to work’ life, vendors of course, a variety of birdlife and terrapins and … what we originally thought was a crocodile but in fact was a water monitor lizard! Huge! Apparently they are 2km on average- such a long tail. We passed the famous Tooth Temple which we intend to visit this week and spotted a group of Buddhist monks with their co-ordinated orange brollies!

 

Returned to the room so Steve could rest up before the afternoon’s cricket – there was no way he was going to miss that – no matter the state of his tummy!! Our driver, Sheik, turned up promptly and drove us the longish journey to Pallekele International Cricket Stadium, dodging as you do between the various types of transport, pedestrians, cows and dogs!! A great stadium … and they sold beer! It had been a sunny morning but as we entered it started to rain and it was announced that the start was delayed! This was at 2.30pm and at 6.30pm we were still sat (patiently/impatiently – delete as appropriate!) waiting for play to commence. Met up with Richard and Judy during this time and also with Karen, George, Ciderman and Harry – so time passed between chats and watching the covers go on and off. Nevertheless, it looked unlikely that there would be play so at 6.30pm we called for Sheik to pick us up (he had requested an hour’s notice). And you could write the script – within half an hour of us leaving, play started! All was not lost though … we got back to the hotel to watch it on a big screen in the bar … Steve was near to much needed hygienic toilets and I could enjoy a glass or two of wine!

A stressful night followed. About 11.00pm a loud mechanical noise started above us, probably coming from the roof. Steve called down to report it. An hour later we called down again and were told we didn’t need to worry about it! “I’m not worried about it, I can’t sleep” was Steve’s agitated but trying to be polite reply! This resulted in us temporarily changing to a different room about 1.00am + a night of frequent bathroom visits for both of us!!

Thursday 18th October 2018

We’d booked an early trip so were up at 6.30am, both feeling washed out now! Skipped breakfast – not taking any chances. Sheik had picked up Richard and Judy and got to us for 7.30am. Drove us to Kandy Railway Station in his boss’ luxury minibus – escorted us in, gave us our tickets and waited till we had safely secured our reserved seats. I managed to buy some dry (non-sweet) bread rolls to keep our tummies from rumbling. Also took full advantage of the “Foreigners Only” toilets on the platform.

Judy soon sorted out some ladies who were trying to bag our seats and we settled in for the 4 hour train journey to Nuwera Eliya. A magnificent journey, once out of the city the views were breathtaking as we wound our way up through jade-green tea plantations with mountain backdrops. We had only managed to get tickets for 3rd class travel – 1st and 2nd class tickets generally get bought up by large tour companies and sold off at an inflated rate which seems scandalous. But 3rd class was great for us with its open windows and doors. There were vendors a-plenty … not quite 1st class buffet but you could get everything – every variety of local fruits, pastries, nuts, soft drinks, sandwiches … even Pringles!

 

Sheik met us on the platform in Nuwera Eliya and gathered us all safely back to the luxury of his mini bus – he was very proud of that! He then took us on a tour of this beautiful town set up high in the hills. It is often referred to as “Little England” and definitely has that feel to it – colonial-era bungalows and Tudor style hotels – famous particularly for its tea estates. I had visited here 35 years ago and stayed in the Hill Club hotel – I remember it being so beautiful and steeped in history so we stopped by for a peek. From there we headed to Damro Tea Plantation where we admired the estate and did a tour of the factory. Seems to me that it’s the ladies that do all the work around here – both picking the tea and working in the factory! The tour was polished off with a delicious cup of tea and a huge wedge of chocolate cake (I was better by this time but not poor Steve – just water for him)! We stopped off at a few more viewing points (not too heavy on the retail opportunities!) – saw some stunning waterfalls and then started out on the long journey back to Kandy.  As with the train journey, there were some incredibly steep drops to the side – breathtaking though, literally!   Sheik did us proud – it was a great day. Really enjoyed Richard and Judy’s company too – fitted in such a lot of conversation – feel like old friends already!

Back at the hotel we discovered that they’d been unable to repair the noise problem in our room so this necessitated packing up all our gear and shifting to a new room. Grumble grumble … Steve was pretty washed out after a busy day and not having eaten much for 3 days – so it was quite a chore.

Then it was dinner – what could be risked? Steve definitely not up to a spicy option so we settled for the hotel’s International Buffet. Pumpkin soup to start – fine. Only non-spicy main option was pork chop and boiled vegetables – OK but nothing to rave about. The most entertaining part of the evening was working to avoid the three wandering minstrels who were doing their rounds of the tables … as they neared us each time we got up to explore the buffet – we were just not in the right frame of mind to be serenaded, and certainly didn’t want to buy their CD!

So a new train adventure today, a new non-spicy diet, a new room and … hopefully tomorrow a newly restored hubbie, now that I’ve persuaded him to take medication. Let’s see what tomorrow brings!? 🤔

 

Saturday 13th October 2018

A fabulous day of cricket today (get me)!!  We sat ourselves in one of the lower stands amongst the local supporters – boy, they know how to have fun.   England batted first so it was great to see our boys perform against the eager Sri Lankan team.  Some great bowling from the home team, especially Malinga who the crowd seem to hero worship.  A sweltering day so the shade was appreciated – had a few ice-creams and, in the absence of alcohol, a few chilled lemonades!

With hot dogs for lunch our total spend for the day on food and drinks was the equivalent of £5 – scandalous!!  Just a little different to The Oval.

And, yes you guessed it, rain stopped play … we got to see the amazing performance of the ground staff pulling on the covers again – priceless.  My goodness did it rain – so no further play … and England were declared the winners on the Duckworth-Lewis method (I could probably tell you all about that … but I won’t)!!

The owner of the hotel kindly came to our rescue, did a few bus trips to bring all his ‘cricket fan’ guests back to the safety and comfort of the hotel.  They looked after us so well.

Chilled the rest of the day and had dinner at the hotel.  Made two new friends in Richard and Judy (not likely to forget those names)!  Planning to meet up again in Kandy.

Sunday 14th October 2018

Check-out day from Dambulla.  Sad to be leaving this lovely hotel – they’ve become like family – funny how we always seem to get so attached to staff.  It seems an age ago that we checked in and, to be honest, we weren’t sure at first  …  (1) it was pouring with rain and looked miserable  (2) we were the only guests at the hotel  (3) there was no wardrobe in the room and (4) Steve kept banging his head every time he walked through a door or down the stairs!!   But we grew to love the place and the people, and by day 3 all the other cricket enthusiasts arrived – it’s been great fun.  So we bid a fond farewell, promising to be back etc.

And so the hotel driver drove us, and another guest Paul, to our next stop in Kandy.  An interesting journey, lots to see … and this driver was good, felt safe in his hands.  We dropped Paul off first at his hotel and then we drove on and on and up and up and even further up till we got to our place – The Eagle Regency Boutique Hotel.  It was on the steepest slope I think I have ever been driven on – how the brakes held the vehicle I don’t know!  Such an amazing spot, nestled into a forest area – completely remote and almost in the clouds!   Once again the staff were so welcoming … there were views to die for and the bedroom was fabulous … but, clearly these buildings are not designed for western heights, well particularly not Steve’s height – it was back to head-banging!

There really wasn’t a whole load to do locally – nothing in fact.  We had a little chill time by the pool and then went down for dinner.  The big question was – would they serve alcohol – ‘cus it was helluva trip down the hill to get a beer!  We had a lovely young waiter who found the whole alcohol thing enlightening.  We asked for a bottle of red wine and got a glass of wine.  When I’d finished that we asked again for a bottle … “a bottle!!?” he questionably exclaimed “I will have to talk to the manager.”  He shortly returned with a bottle of red Cinzano!  So having educated him on the difference I asked for another glass of red wine … “another glass!!?”  And when I asked for a third it nearly blew his mind.  He didn’t bat an eyelid at Steve’s beer consumption however!

Dinner was delicious  – once again we were the sole diners.  The rain was lashing down by this point but it was all very atmospheric amongst the trees.  The waiter kindly informed us that there are cheetahs and wild pigs in the surrounding forest.  We were also joined by a jolly large spider … not my favourite but I was so brave!

We knew pretty soon though that we’d made a mistake – we were so incredibly far away from everything – as breathtaking as it was it just wasn’t going to be practical.  So we secured another booking in the city and then explained to the Eagle hotel that we would have to check out tomorrow.  They tried to talk us round offering us a tuk tuk to take us everywhere, even if Steve wanted to drive it himself!  Now I like tuk tuks but I was not trundling up and down that mountain in one – whoever was driving!!  They also offered us free wine tomorrow – clearly recognising that I was a lush!   They were so lovely about it though – we felt terrible and made it clear that we were to blame.

Monday 15th October 2018

More farewells today … and even after only one night (and the fact that we were checking out early) the staff all gathered to help and say goodbyes.  And so we left our second head-banging hotel.

The driver the hotel had arranged was a good man, a careful driver plus his English was pretty good.  Looks like we may well have teamed up for the week (as you do)!  On the way to the hotel he explained many of the sights (he is studying tourism) – we stopped off at the Kandy War Cemetery, a British military cemetery for soldiers of the British Empire who were killed during World War II.  The age of some of these young men was so poignant.

Before driving us to the hotel, we stopped off at the Pallekele International Cricket Stadium to pick up our tickets for later in the week.  And what excitement, not only did we pass Malinga walking down the road, but we also got to watch our English lads training at the stadium – I’m becoming quite the groupie!

And after a few more viewing spots the driver took us to our hotel – The Queens Hotel, located in the centre of the city, overlooking Kandy Lake.  It is a British Colonial 3 star hotel, one of the oldest hotels in the city with over 160 years of history.  It has a great feel, SO grand yet so tired at the same time … but we love it.  And get this … the doors are plenty tall enough for my giant of a husband!  I think we’re going to love Kandy.

Finished off the day with a wander round the sites of Kandy and then walked by the lake till we found the ‘Slightly Chilled Lounge’ for something to eat. And who should we bump in to but a crowd of new friends from our previous hotel in Dambulla. Had a few drinks and catch up, exchanging our stories from the last couple of days. Hoping to meet up again.

Kandy is going to be a spectacular place to explore – really beautiful at night too when all lit up.