The Ups and Downs of Sussex coastline walking

Tuesday 7th October 2025

Well today it was all about ‘the Climb’ – several of them – as we rambled our way from Newhaven to Birling Gap, taking in the South Downs National Park and its sea eroded section known as the Seven Sisters, characterised by its magnificent chalk cliff faces. I have to say it was a tough 11 mile walk. In our running circles there’s a popular saying … “Hills are our friends” … but are they, really!!!?

It took us two buses to get to our starting point at Newhaven, but we were maximising on our OAP privileges to get there for free! The initial walk through Newhaven wasn’t too inspiring as we circled the port area, through the old tide mills and onto the promenade at Seaford. Treated ourselves to a cappucino stop at the sailing club as we could see the first climb was just ahead.

Leaving Newhaven

So up the hill we went and down the other side. Coming down these hills is Heaven, all smooth and grassy and at a decent angle – you feel like flying! We could see quite a gathering of people ahead as we neared Cuckmere Haven, where there are some famous Coastguard Cottages and the area is known for its photographic beauty. This is where we met our first group of Chinese tourists – they were having a ball snapping all the local sights and posing for British seaside selfies. With these views and just over 5 miles in, it seemed the perfect spot to utilise a well positioned bench to tuck into our picnic lunch.

Shortly after this, the coastal path signs took us inland a little, some river inlets to get around. Passing quite a few more Chinese explorers on the path who were clearly very interested in this stretch of coastline – always exchanging cheery hellos. We reached a main road and then veered off to the right. We had a choice of concrete low lying path or a path that took us up a steep hill – we took the latter guessing it would be a shortcut. You guessed it – we ended up back on the concrete path! But the torturous climb was SO worth it for the spectacular views – well I can say that now as I sit on the couch with my glass of wine, looking at the photos! The meandering river views reminded me so much of my Geography Teacher, Mrs. Sawyer – she used to wax lyrical about this sort of thing. Along this ‘unnecessary’ climb too we came face to face with horned cows. Steve used his usual shooing method and they fortunately obliged.

Meandering rivers

From here we had a little lowland section that involved some extremely active wild ponies – a lot of hand holding was necessary for me to hold my nerve, as beautiful a spectacle as it was.

Beautiful wild ponies albeit a little lively

It was at this point that we finally hit the traversing of the Seven Sisters Cliffs. I’m not lying – they weren’t easy. Each time you thought the next one would be less steep but as soon as you faced the climb it seemed ridiculously steep. But we did it and survived – not without a few breathing stops I must say. And those breathing stops allowed me a look back to see the splendour of what we’d been walking – it was all so marvellous.

As beautiful as this coastal path had been, I have to say I was relieved when we finally took the downhill path into Birling Gap. Didn’t get a chance to enjoy this spot, apart from the toilet and ice-cream, but we’ll be back. This had been an 11 miles of hard but spectacular coastal path walking. Just to get the bus back to Hove now. Sadly disaster struck, turned out we were out of season – it was only then we had recollections of Hannah suggesting this might be a thing! So, guess what, another 1.1 mile walk to the nearest bus stop … and naturally it was UPHILL!!

Again two buses to get back to our accommodation in Hove, and it took 2 hours … but free! Now, we’ve showered, eaten and had some ‘refreshments’ we’re back to being mellow. Our limbs and joints may be creaking and cranking after a day on the South DOWNS but our spirits are well and truly UP. We constantly say to ourselves how lucky we are to be able to do this … and long may it last.

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