The Swansea stroll …

Thursday 12th September 2024

Day 11 – Swansea to Langland Bay

We had saved this wonderful stretch for our very last day of walking for this trip as it involved a gentle stroll along the Swansea promenade, into the Mumbles then up and over the hill into Langland Bay. Easy peasy! I felt so recovered after my day off yesterday and a sunny amble was the perfect finale to what has been a terrific walking holiday with lovely friends.

Steve, Ros and I caught the bus into Swansea, sitting on the back seat like excited schoolchildren. And there was excitement too when squeezing along narrow roads in Mumbles, due to parked cars on either side, a speedy JCB managed to scrape the side of the bus. This caused delay while an investigation took place … and gave the local passengers a great opportunity to moan about parking in the area … “Mumbles is just like one big car park.”

We finally disembarked and found our way from the bus station to the promenade – the sun was out, blue skies, just perfect. Less than two miles in the rain came to join us so we used it as an excuse to dive into a cafe for coffee. Fabulous seafront cafe called ‘The Secret’ which we subsequently realised is the starting point for our parkrun on Saturday.

The three survivors!

Swansea beach

By the time we emerged the rain had stopped and then held off all day. So a fabulous walk along the miles of Swansea promenade and then into the Mumbles … and it had to be a Greggs sausage roll for lunch. We stuck to the seafront coastal path and were impressed by the Coastal Protection Project – it’s going to look so smart although I’m sure it’s causing quite an upheaval.

Apart from some steps and a few manageable inclines, the coastal path gave us a day of flat pleasure. Ros and I even got propositioned … a sweet elderly gentleman asked us if we would like to go clubbing tonight. I asked him if he’d like to sign my dance card which made him chuckle and he assured us that he would get the drinks in. We’ve still got it!!

The picturesque Langland Bay

The drop down into Langland Bay was just stunning – we really have hit on a magical place to stay. Opposite our apartment is ‘Langlands Brasserie’ where we toasted our rambling achievement with beers. And it all ended in sunshine.

Cheers!

8 miles walking today.

110 miles in total for this walking trip – not bad for a group of jolly sexagenarians! See you soon.

Over the boardwalk … and Anglesey complete

Wednesday 24th April 2024

Valley to Trearddur (it’s so hard to say Trearddur … with its rolling ‘r’ and ‘dd’ being pronounced as ‘th’)!! – 11 miles of walking

I was talking to Tom on the phone, while this photo was taken on Silver Bay Beach – about half way.

No trains or buses needed today as we set off from Valley for our 11 mile ramble to Trearddur. We knew that the first half particularly was lowland, so we had mentally prepared ourselves for a muddy day. Just about spotted the ‘hole in the wall’ start to the Coastal Path and once inside, so did the squelching begin.

The hole in the wall that led us on to the Coastal Path

So for the next few miles we manoeuvred our way along muddy paths and beaches but took it all in our stride as once again we had fabulous views and perfect weather. We were also treated to a series of ‘boardwalks’ which had obviously been placed over the worst parts. Bless you Alexander Boardman for inventing the boardwalk – you were a genius and today you were our saviour.

Someone had kindly indicated an alternative path along the beach

We love a boardwalk

Fabulous views, despite the mud! Looking at Holyhead Mountain – yesterday’s climb!

We reached ‘Four Mile Bridge’ which is clearly not 4 miles long – having now researched we know that it is so named because it is 4 miles from the town of Holyhead. It links the main island of Anglesey to the island of Holyhead.

Four Mile Bridge

The immediate path off the bridge looked a little treacherous, with it being both narrow and blocked … I could see a wet experience ahead. However, once there, it was a little wider than initially thought, and our Sherpa David beat out a path behind the boat so that we didn’t have to swim around or climb over.

At this point I was saying to Steve “are you sure about this!?”

Where there’s a will there’s a way!

This narrow path path led on to some woodland with beautiful bluebells on display.

Then we found ourselves on the most magnificent beach in Silver Bay … with its golden sands and the sea unbelievably calm. We chose this perfect spot for our picnic lunch and got chatting to a chap that had come down from his caravan to swim, he swims most days. He reassured us that it is not always like this, more often it is windy and the sea choppy – we truly have been blessed with the weather.

Silver Bay Beach

Sensibly reapplying sun cream

Chatting to Tom while being photographed on Silver Bay Beach

Our new friend

We were treated to some amazing air displays during the walk today, both helicopters and trainer jets from RAF Valley. Our very own Air Show – spectacular.

Pork sandwiches and crisps consumed, we continued on our way. Higher ground now so less muddy … with a few hills thrown in. Wonderful views of Snowdonia in the distance and once again, a stunning collection of coves, sandy beaches and cliff faces. Overwhelming beauty at times – feel so privileged to experience it.

Snowdonia views in the distance

Then, further on, back to the views of Holyhead Mountain

Great balancing skills

Then finally, after 11 glorious miles, we reached the beautiful beach in Trearddur Bay – the end of the road for us. This saw Steve and I complete our walk of the whole of Anglesey and Holyhead – David kindly bought us beers to celebrate, in Oceans Edge bar/restaurant, overlooking the beach on what felt like a summer’s day.

Trearddur Bay Beach

Celebratory beers – completing the Coastal Path of Anglesey and Holyhead!

Then it was the bus back to Valley and to save us extra walking, we made the decision to stop off in the pub for a couple of beers and an early dinner, rather than go home, get changed and come back out. BIG mistake but loads of fun. A few beers waiting for the carvery to open, a huge plate of carvery … more beers and wine … and a very giggly and wobbly walk back home!!

And so, that’s a wrap for now and I’d like to thank Steve and David for helping me through some of the more trickier parts and for keeping me motivated to continue being a ‘Rambling Rose.’

80 more miles of coastal walking clocked up on this trip, (a little less for me) so we’re chipping it off. And after a dodgy start, it has to be said that this is one of our favourite sections so far. Wales is wonderful and Holyhead particularly is a real hidden gem – most definitely worth the drive up.

Mr. Rose and Mr. Rose … it’s a Goodbye from him and a goodbye from him and a Goodbye from me!!

Coastal path walk … with a mountain thrown in!!

Who put a mountain in the middle of a Coastal Path walk!? We knew that Holyhead Mountain was lurking on one of the island walks but when you’re there, it’s pretty tough, thrown into the mixture of a 12-mile trek. Today was the day it had to be done!!

Leaving Holyhead … again!!

Wednesday 23rd April 2024

Holyhead to Trearddur – 12 miles

Up and out a bit earlier today to catch the train to Holyhead. Valley is a request stop so we nominated David to flag the train down, as we were the only passengers on the station platform. On arrival, we made our way over Holyhead’s quite magnificent bridge to a cafe named “Holly Molly” and tucked into rather delightful breakfasts and mugs of tea. Then we were ready for the off.

David flagging down the train as Valley is a request stop

The striking bridge in Holyhead

Said breakfast, setting Steve and David up for the day – mine was somewhat smaller!!

Picked up the coastal path signs quite easily and the first couple of miles were pretty plain sailing – all was well in our world. Yet another fair weather day – just can’t believe our luck. Gradually there was a sense of climbing but the paths were so accommodating that it wasn’t a struggle. There was a certain amount of winding around the mountain rather than steep ascents so still didn’t foresee any difficulty. And the views were to die for, wouldn’t want to have missed this.

A little relax before the climb.

The South Stack Lighthouse

However, as we got further up the 722 ft climb it got steeper and rockier underfoot and the same with the downhill sections. So I must admit to struggling somewhat on the top half of the mountain. Even with my trusty walking pole, I seem to have got more wobbly on these trickier terrains and my diminishing confidence results in me being slower. Steve and David don’t mind waiting for me or giving me a supporting hand from time to time but I do feel sad about not being such a capable rambler anymore.

Holyhead Mountain has diverse ecology and several sites of historical significance – there were numerous other walkers exploring its rugged paths. Many visitors come to see the South Stack Lighthouse and also the variety of birds that nest along the cliff faces. We were looking out for puffins and stonechats as well as seals and dolphins but didn’t see any of those. We did see a couple of small lizards but luckily not the snakes that had been mentioned as a possibility. And we also saw some Oystercatchers.

Oystercatchers

When we reached the bottom of the mountain we had 5 miles in the bag, and it seemed like the next 7 miles would be a breeze! I’m not going to grumble because it was beautiful – we were so spoilt with the blue skies, the turquoise seas shimmering in the sun, the dramatic cliffs and sandy coves … but a breeze it wasn’t. It was 7 miles of significant ups and downs in places, not on the mountain scale but certainly not flat. But I wouldn’t have missed it for the world (I can safely say that now I’m back home sitting in an armchair)!

Finally saw a F35B Lightning Fighter Jet

Along the way we saw many people kayaking, young and old, as well as a group of youngsters being taught to do abseiling and coast steering. And as we neared Trearddur Bay there were several beaches of outstanding beauty.

Kayaking

Coast steering

Abseiling

And finally we reached the beautiful Trearddur Bay Beach

Despite my own limitations, I would wholeheartedly say that today was yes, one of the tougher of days, but it was also the most magnificent in terms of scenery. So, if you are a walker and you’ve not visited this part of Anglesey, I would certainly recommend that you put it on your list.

It was a mountain of a day but now feeling mellow with a glass of red wine in Valley, watching the sun go down … and there it is in the distance – that’s the brute that is Holyhead Mountain.

From our house in Valley, we watched the sun set on Holyhead Mountain

Walking back to Valley

Monday 22nd April 2024

Porth Swtan to Valley

Like yesterday, today’s plan was to catch a bus and walk back to Valley – this time from a different direction. Our first mission was to find the bus stop in Valley and this ended up being a 2 mile wander until we found somewhere to stand in hope that the number 61 would stop to pick us up – this being the one daily bus going in that direction. Success, the driver stopped, although didn’t seem over impressed with me speaking in English. After an incredibly hairy ride along several of the narrowest country lanes, where the driver was definitely not taking any prisoners, we disembarked roughly near Porth Swtan and headed off to find the coastal path. This turned out to be another 2 mile walk. So before we even started our official coastal path mileage, we had walked 4 miles … we like to call them ‘bonus’ miles! Sadly there was nowhere open for coffee and cake … and this haunted us the whole day.

No evidence of this being a bus stop but we waited in hope – there was one bus a day at 11.44am!

And so we set off on the officially signed path – great signage today, didn’t get lost once. It was one of those undulating sort of days, enough ups and downs to keep you interested but nothing too dramatic. A mixture of terrain too – country and cliff top paths, tarmac lanes, farm fields, caravan parks, sand dunes, as well as stretches of beach – sand and pebbles. All pretty pleasant.

Finally, after 4 bonus miles, found ourselves on the Coast Path at Porth Swtan

John, Paul, George or Ringo?

Probably not recycling!?

Holyhead to Dublin in 3.5 hours

The weather was a little nippy today with chill winds so we were wrapped up. Three miles in we decided to stop for our picnic lunch as time was getting on. We found a sheltered spot on a pretty beach and tucked in – so wishing we had brought a hot drink with us. When another couple arrived and set up their picnic spot nearby, we were SO envious of their huge flask of coffee – we were positively drooling.

We set off feeling re-energised and not long after the sun began to peep through the clouds. We just can’t believe how lucky we’ve been with the weather – some friends of ours experienced a whole different climate a couple of weeks ago. Traipsed our way through fields of baby lambs that just melt your heart. Talked about identifying birdsong … but the seagull was about the best we could do! We did however manage to identify the roars of the F35 fighter jets flying over, even though we couldn’t see them.

A bridge too far?

Think these swans may have been nesting

Started to feel a little weary as the miles clocked up and unfortunately the last couple of miles were spent wading through mud again. The mild climate has definitely improved the ground but there’s definitely still some squelchy bits around. Had a long section of balancing on logs, clinging to the fence but still managing to sink into it occasionally … my trusty walking pole kept me upright however.

Then finally Valley was in sight and we wound our weary way around the village to our oh so comfortable accommodation. It was muddy boots and socks off and kettle on. After the official 10 miles of Coastal Path covered, plus our bonus 4 miles pre-path, 14 miles walking today deserved lashings of tea and biscuits. It felt good to be back in Valley.

Marathon Day Coastal Walking

Sunday 21st April 2024

Holyhead to Valley

Setting off from Holyhead Ferry terminal

No, we didn’t walk Marathon mileage today, but we did set off late morning so that we could see the start of the London Marathon on the TV, and we made it a short walk in order to be back to watch the finishers – we all had several friends running it today.

We’re staying in the village of Valley in North Anglesey, logistically planned for our walk around the coast of Holyhead (otherwise known as Holy Island).

Our new accommodation in Valley, North Anglesey – great views

Again it was all three Roses – Steve, David and myself – a right bunch!! We planned to get a train to Holyhead but there was a replacement bus service, which worked super nicely, particularly as it was free. And on arriving at the busy Ferry Terminal, there was just one thing to do before setting off – coffee and cake. It’s tough!

Impressive views of the Irish ferries as we left to start our walk along the estuary coastline, taking us through Penrhos Coastal Park. The beautiful woodland promised viewings of red squirrels but despite cricking necks, not a bushy tail was seen. There were minimal inclines today – it was a manageable and pleasant walk with perfect weather. While we had all the walking gear on, we passed many casually dressed Sunday strollers – must have thought that I was a real weirdo with a walking pole – I’m just not taking any chances ever again! It was mostly single track walking so we took it in turns to be the ‘pacer’ in true Marathon fashion.

And literally 300 yards before the end, just when we imagined arriving back with spotless boots, we hit a muddy cow field – but still nothing in comparison to earlier days so hardly worth a grumble. Just short of 5 miles today – a walk in the park.

Said muddy cow field, near home

And now we are back in our lovely accommodation, enjoying tea and biscuits, and scanning the sectioned TV screen, trying to catch sight of those green Redway Runners’ T-shirts, as well as our friends in their Charity T-Shirts, crossing that famous finish line.

The London Marathon finish line.

Congratulations everyone!

And back to yesterday: Saturday 20th April 2024

We checked out of our stunning accommodation in Abersoch (early) in order to drive to Pwllheli for the parkrun. The most stunning of parkruns but one of the hardest too as it’s running on soft sand and pebbles. We all found it hard and definitely zero chance of a PB. Rewarded ourselves with a full Welsh Breakfast afterwards, as you do.

Pwllheli Beach – it doesn’t come more tranquil than this.

This is what we were running on though – tough going!

Drove up to Anglesey and then on to Holyhead – spent a couple of hours relaxing on the beautiful beach at Trearddur Bay – you see it’s not all hard work – before checking into our new accommodation in Valley.

Trearddur Bay

Even had a paddle

And the day before that: Friday 19th April 2024

While David did an admirable 18 mile coastal walk from Llanbedrog to Criccieth, Steve and I on the other hand had a leisurely morning and an indulgent lunch at The Sandbar restaurant on Abersoch beach. The weather was absolutely stunning, so much sunshine. We just had to finish the day off with a couple of beers at The Vaynol pub, watching the sun go down.

Views from the Sandbar restaurant, Abersoch Beach

A cheeky couple of Friday night beers!

So all in all the last few days have been wonderfully relaxed – with a little bit of running and walking thrown in. Now this feels like holiday.