A Valentine’s Day to remember

Wednesday 14th February 2024

In the 32 years we’ve been together, this is the first time that we’ve not exchanged Valentines Day cards, flowers, chocolates etc. We’re far too busy rambling! Actually, we were aware it was looming but it just caught us out in terms of acquiring said gifts. Nevertheless, what better than a stroll from Burnham-on-Sea to Weston-super-Mare … we’re just a pair of old romantics. 

We drove the car to Weston-super-Mare as yesterday’s reliance on public transport had added an extra 4 hours to our day out. Unfortunately we just missed a bus and had to wait an hour for the next No. 20 to Burnham. On arrival we were pleasantly surprised that we could walk along the beach (as opposed to the sand dunes) the 6 mile route taking us to Brean. It was overcast but dry and there was lots of life on the beach – dog walkers and children playing – a beautiful start to the day. There were frequent signs about sinking mud further out, so we made sure we kept close to the back of the beach. We didn’t need any stress today.

We stopped in Brean for refreshment and could see a huge climb ahead – Brean Down. Steve did mention that we could skip this part altogether but we just couldn’t bring ourselves to cheat – what is wrong with us!!? So up the flight of steps we went – 97 metres of it – but at least we could stay upright and there was a handrail … luxury! And boy was it worth it, the views were tremendous – looking out over the Bristol Channel towards South Wales and over the Somerset levels. We both said that in all our years of walking it was one of the most magnificent views we had seen. You see, there is some logic and benefits to this crazy life we lead. 

At the top is a site of a Roman temple and the path led us up and down to a National Trust property called Palmerston Fort – it is now a ruin but was built to defend the country against a possible Napoleonic invasion and later used in WWII. It was fairly muddy underfoot and slippery so we kept looking for shortcuts but they weren’t abundant. We were fairly close to the end of the headland when we spotted one – it meant a fairly steep descent so we took it steady – we had about a metre left to go when my feet went from underneath me and I took a slip slide down, caking myself in thick yellow mud. I wasn’t amused.

Palmerston Fort – National Trust

The cows have bells

Spotted a pheasant

Luckily the lower path was drier and flatter so I managed to compose myself as we walked back along the other side – we had magnificent views of Weston-super-Mare from here and it made it seem so much more doable. We found ourselves at a junction where a tarmac path would have taken us back to where we had lunched in Brean – but our OS app was indicating that the coastal path route was the other option – a muddy narrow path downhill through the woods. No prizes for guessing which path we chose. I don’t know why I did it because I grumbled and moaned the whole way down about it being ridiculous – I was extra nervous after my tumble. Once again, just shy of the end, I fell onto my side this time and collected an even more muddy look. My very words were “that’s it, I’m not taking any more risks.”

And to think we could have skipped the whole headland as we were pretty much back where we started an hour ago. But we would have missed the views!

It wasn’t even 5 minutes before we were forced to take said risk!! The coastal path sign indicated that the path was available between April and July. The trouble was that there didn’t seem to be any alternative and we had to get back to our car. Steve was getting concerned about getting back in daylight. The gates to the embankment path were open so on we went, and the next few gates were open too. It was wet, muddy and unpleasant but it least it was taking us back to where we needed to go. About halfway along the 3 mile stretch of embankment however, the gates were padlocked … but climb over we did in preference to going back. Our spirits were low but we trudged on and climbed over numerous gates. When we got to the turning point to take us to the other side of the estuary, we made the decision to abandon ship – we were facing another 3 or 4 miles of embankment walking and unknown territory in terms of locked gates etc. 

A rerminder of the dreaded estuary and its embankment wall

We found a route to a bus stop a mile away and then had to wait an hour for a bus into Weston-super-Mare. We cheered ourselves up with an orange Club biscuit – simple pleasures. We hated having to give up but we needed to get back safely. It was a bath, food and an early night for us – completely exhausted. Happy Valentines Day. xx

Thursday 15th February 2024

We’re taking a day or two off walking. The travelling to our start points is getting too long and complicated. We’ll be finding something a little more leisurely to do for a few days until we move further down the coast at the weekend. Planning a belated Valentines meal out today. 

Yesterday was a day to remember, perhaps a turning point in this retirement project of ours. We need to stay safe and we need to enjoy our times on the coast. So King Charles, if there’s no official coastal path we’re just not going to do it. 

A wet walk away from Weston-super-Mare

Tuesday 13th February 2024

The only thing I knew about Weston-super-Mare is that the tide is generally so far back, that it requires a hike if you fancy a swim. Today was my first visit and it involved catching two buses to get there – the 49 into Bristol Centre and then the X1, but straightforward enough. Our first impressions of Weston-super-Mare were good – we liked it. Its piers and hospitality were welcoming and the hotels with their bay views seemed grand and elegant. And ironically the tide was SO far in that the waves were lapping up onto the promenade. That’s how much I know! 

The Old Pier has seen better days!

But, as always, we were soon off to find the coastal path as our plan was to walk to Clevedon today. Steve was particularly anxious about the route as only such a small part of if was official Coastal Path – the rest he had to devise through the means of Ordnance Survey. What could possibly go wrong!? Being an estuary, so much of this coastline is mud flats and sea defence walls – with that and it being SO wet plus ongoing downpours, we made the executive decision to steer ourselves more inland and stick to walking on country roads in preference. At this ripe old age we have to put our Health & Safety hats on sometimes. Despite his meticulous planning, there can always be an element of surprise (e.g. locked bridges or flooding) so sometimes we have to just see how it goes. 

The leaving of Weston-super-Mare was a lovely stretch uphill with the scenic sea views on our left. As we reached Weston woods there was some roadside walking and then a path through the woods kindly took as away from the traffic noise just a little. We soon reached the village of Kewstoke and wandered through admiring some stunning houses. The ‘Private Pavement’ signs were a little officious however – naturally we just had to walk on them – such rebels!!

In the same village – obviously very precious about their parking!

Just out of the village we picked up signs for a cycle path to Clevedon … and what’s good for cyclists is certainly good for us. So for some time we wandered along country roads – diving into hedges sometimes as the odd speedy car appeared. There were a few railways crossings to manoeuvre and bridges too as we ducked and dived our way, avoiding motorways and other busy roads. 

Can you spot the garden shed travelling at 50mph?

Can you spot the Cross Country Express travelling at 100mph?

The bit of the route that Steve had worried about the most came to fruition in the shape of 5 farm fields that we had to squelch our way through, quite literally … it was gross. But he was so relieved that the promised bridge was in place, as was the ladder down to the stinky ‘ cattle creep” underpass … and so we managed to achieve a way through under the M5 Motorway. 

It’s a cattlecreep!

After that it was country roads all the way to Clevedon, albeit it stretching endlessly – the Beatles lyrics “long and winding road” came to mind for a good hour or so. Then Clevedon came into view and we were so grateful and, despite the miles, terrain and weather we’d encountered, we felt chuffed at what we’d achieved.

Some strange planters

Newborns

But of course there was one more killer spot at the end – Wain’s Hill – this involved us scrabbling up the steep cliff on all fours to reach the Coastal Path at the top to take us down into Clevedon beachfront. I’m sure there must have been an alternative route but, despite searching, we couldn’t find it anywhere. A fitting and unglamorous end to the walking day – I even came nose to nose with a terrier and frightened the life out of him! 

Finally we had returned to this very pretty seaside town of Clevedon where we rewarded ourselves with tea and shortbread in one of their very delightful cafes. What a day it had been – a lot of rain, a lot of mud … and 16 miles of walking. 

I have to give full credit to Mr. Rose for his genius in planning out these routes – I always trust him and sometimes it can go a little pear shaped but not today. And as for the King Charles III England Coast Path – where were you today? It just goes to show …. sometimes in life you just have to make your own path!