To Morecambe … and back again

Saturday 25th January 2025

Storm Eowyn has been doing its stuff over the last couple of days – today we woke up to stunning blue skies, but still a whole load of wind. So Saturday at 9.00am, of course we found ourselves at a Parkrun! The Lancaster one had been called off due to fallen trees and so Morecambe it was – and how lovely to finally find ourselves at the seaside. It was a wonderful out and back run along the promenade with fantastic views of the wide expanse of sand, the sea and the Lake District coastline on the horizon. The return part was not much fun however as we were running into strong wind – it was a battle.

We drove back to Lancaster and after a quick turn around we were heading back to Morecambe – this time walking. We caught the bus to the bus station (our starting point), couldn’t find the bus station cafe so carried on – our tummies were well and truly rumbling by the time we came across sustenance in Starbucks, about two miles in.

The Bay cycleway had been our path thus far, and we could have carried on this very pleasurable route all the way to Morecambe but that would have only been a couple more miles and cheating as so inland. The true coastal path option was a little risky as it floods daily and you need to know the timing of the tides. It would also have meant going via Heysham and being a 15 mile day. So our plan was to walk roadside into Morecambe – we had two roads to choose from. We checked them both out, neither had pavements! One of them did have a narrow kerb so we went for that, but it really wasn’t safe as it was National speed limit and we were getting some funny stares. A little over a mile of this stress we came to a turn off and Steve worked out a cross country option. And it was beautiful. Yes it was muddy paths and waterlogged farm fields but I’d take that over the craziness of speeding vehicles any day. A huge relief.

When we reached the outskirts of Morecambe, we had another hellish 200m walking another section of narrow busy road, with the blindness of a bridge thrown in. We took our life into our hands inching our way up and over, making our way to the safe haven of pavement. We really did get some puzzled looks that time!

And before we knew it, we were on the beautiful promenade of Morecambe – all our stress fell away. We walked 4 miles along this perfect stretch, making our end point at the oh so famous Eric Morecambe statue. What a wonderful tribute to a wonderful entertainer. It felt fitting to pay our respects for all those heartwarming Christmas Day memories.

Morecambe Bay with the Lake District in the background.

There’s a huge amount of Cormorant sculptures – funnily enough we didn’t actually see any real ones!

The absolutely wonderful Eric Morecambe!

Me and Eric xx

We treated ourselves to food and a few celebratory drinks back in Lancaster. So recommend ‘Merchants 1688,’ a bar just near the castle, a fabulously atmospheric venue for eating and drinking.

Today we walked 8 miles (plus our 3 mile run in the morning of course!!)

On this trip, we have covered off 43.5 miles over 4 days of coastal walking. Not bad for a couple of old codgers. And we will be coming back one day to continue this stretch of coastline, beginning with a guided 9 mile walk over Morecambe Bay, notorious for its quick sands – we are definitely not taking any risks by going solo!! Till next time Morecambe.

OAPs let loose in Lancashire!

Saturday 18th January – Monday 20th January 2025

After a fabulous two night stay with Alice and Jon in Lymm, we drove up to Lancaster on Saturday afternoon for a week’s house-sitting assignment. The house owners, Paul and William were off to Gran Canaria for a break and leaving us in charge of their stunningly stylish Victorian residence and their two wonderful moggies, Monty and Kit. We spent a great evening with Paul and William before they flew out the next morning – a deliciously home-cooked meal and the most perfect company. We’ve fallen in love with Monty and Kit who are 4 years old and brother and sister. They lay cuddling each other for hours each evening and love to wash each other … and they have the odd scrap too!!

Monty and Kit

We spent Sunday settling in and exploring the interesting city of Lancaster. We walked up to the Castle and the Priory and discovered the history of its prisons and the stories of the Pendle Witches. The city is steeped in history and has the most spectacular architecture. There is also a vibrant University student life here so quite a contrast to its Roman and Medieval past. Always great to discover a different city.

Lancaster Castle

Lancaster Priory

So Monday was our first day of walking and by use of car and bus we made our way to Fleetwood, to walk the Wyre Estuary. If the ferry had been operating we could have saved ourselves a lot of time and effort – it might have been cheating but we were sorely tempted … then the decision was taken out of our hands, it’s in for repair. Treated ourselves to a bacon ‘barm’ and a mug of hot tea in the ferry cafe instead.

Overall not a day to write home about – it was cold, grey and drizzly and estuary walking is never glamorous. The first side of the estuary was 4 miles of busy roadside then a mostly manageable path. One section of it did have a ‘No Access’ sign but apparently that doesn’t apply to us!!!! The ‘health and safety’ aspect of heavy machinery did not worry Steve a jot, especially as no alternatives were provided. So, when we reached the digger, we skirted around it on the soggy mud flats and gave the digger driver a cheeky wave – he didn’t seem perturbed. The path got somewhat wetter between here and Skippool where we had parked the car, but we waded our way through. And, despite there being some stunning properties, it was like a boat graveyard, amazing vessels just seemingly left to rot.

Back at the car we warmed ourselves up from our flask of hot chocolate and tucked into sausage rolls and sarnies, heater full blast. Feeling rejuvenated, we talked ourselves into tackling the other side of the estuary, rather than come back to do it tomorrow. Seemed like a good idea at the time.

In reality it was pretty grim. We were SO cold when we got out and our clothes were so damp. After a small stretch of roadside we hit the worst terrain of the day – ’twas the mud flats – that sinky, boggy sort of rambling that appeals to no-one! But it was just a couple of miles of that and then we were on to lovely country lanes. Later there was a section of very high and incredibly slippery embankment walls – boy I was smug to have my walking pole – it would have got very messy without! Then more country lanes, a golf course and and an easy path into the lovely town of Knotts-End-on-sea.

And we’d racked up 15 Miles – not a bad effort at all. It’s weird though, the colder and wetter it is, the faster Steve walks (and I try my best to keep up) – so it becomes a physical exercise rather than a sightseeing stroll. But it was a section that just needed to be done and hopefully it will get a little more scenic over the next few days, despite the unpromising weather!

The best part about the day though was the buses – the Lancashire buses are fabulously comfortable and warm and the drivers uber friendly. Our timing was perfect to catch both the buses, no waiting. And … I got to use my newly acquired bus pass – so finally I’ve found some benefit to being a golden oldie!!

The Swansea stroll …

Thursday 12th September 2024

Day 11 – Swansea to Langland Bay

We had saved this wonderful stretch for our very last day of walking for this trip as it involved a gentle stroll along the Swansea promenade, into the Mumbles then up and over the hill into Langland Bay. Easy peasy! I felt so recovered after my day off yesterday and a sunny amble was the perfect finale to what has been a terrific walking holiday with lovely friends.

Steve, Ros and I caught the bus into Swansea, sitting on the back seat like excited schoolchildren. And there was excitement too when squeezing along narrow roads in Mumbles, due to parked cars on either side, a speedy JCB managed to scrape the side of the bus. This caused delay while an investigation took place … and gave the local passengers a great opportunity to moan about parking in the area … “Mumbles is just like one big car park.”

We finally disembarked and found our way from the bus station to the promenade – the sun was out, blue skies, just perfect. Less than two miles in the rain came to join us so we used it as an excuse to dive into a cafe for coffee. Fabulous seafront cafe called ‘The Secret’ which we subsequently realised is the starting point for our parkrun on Saturday.

The three survivors!

Swansea beach

By the time we emerged the rain had stopped and then held off all day. So a fabulous walk along the miles of Swansea promenade and then into the Mumbles … and it had to be a Greggs sausage roll for lunch. We stuck to the seafront coastal path and were impressed by the Coastal Protection Project – it’s going to look so smart although I’m sure it’s causing quite an upheaval.

Apart from some steps and a few manageable inclines, the coastal path gave us a day of flat pleasure. Ros and I even got propositioned … a sweet elderly gentleman asked us if we would like to go clubbing tonight. I asked him if he’d like to sign my dance card which made him chuckle and he assured us that he would get the drinks in. We’ve still got it!!

The picturesque Langland Bay

The drop down into Langland Bay was just stunning – we really have hit on a magical place to stay. Opposite our apartment is ‘Langlands Brasserie’ where we toasted our rambling achievement with beers. And it all ended in sunshine.

Cheers!

8 miles walking today.

110 miles in total for this walking trip – not bad for a group of jolly sexagenarians! See you soon.

Coastal path walk … with a mountain thrown in!!

Who put a mountain in the middle of a Coastal Path walk!? We knew that Holyhead Mountain was lurking on one of the island walks but when you’re there, it’s pretty tough, thrown into the mixture of a 12-mile trek. Today was the day it had to be done!!

Leaving Holyhead … again!!

Wednesday 23rd April 2024

Holyhead to Trearddur – 12 miles

Up and out a bit earlier today to catch the train to Holyhead. Valley is a request stop so we nominated David to flag the train down, as we were the only passengers on the station platform. On arrival, we made our way over Holyhead’s quite magnificent bridge to a cafe named “Holly Molly” and tucked into rather delightful breakfasts and mugs of tea. Then we were ready for the off.

David flagging down the train as Valley is a request stop

The striking bridge in Holyhead

Said breakfast, setting Steve and David up for the day – mine was somewhat smaller!!

Picked up the coastal path signs quite easily and the first couple of miles were pretty plain sailing – all was well in our world. Yet another fair weather day – just can’t believe our luck. Gradually there was a sense of climbing but the paths were so accommodating that it wasn’t a struggle. There was a certain amount of winding around the mountain rather than steep ascents so still didn’t foresee any difficulty. And the views were to die for, wouldn’t want to have missed this.

A little relax before the climb.

The South Stack Lighthouse

However, as we got further up the 722 ft climb it got steeper and rockier underfoot and the same with the downhill sections. So I must admit to struggling somewhat on the top half of the mountain. Even with my trusty walking pole, I seem to have got more wobbly on these trickier terrains and my diminishing confidence results in me being slower. Steve and David don’t mind waiting for me or giving me a supporting hand from time to time but I do feel sad about not being such a capable rambler anymore.

Holyhead Mountain has diverse ecology and several sites of historical significance – there were numerous other walkers exploring its rugged paths. Many visitors come to see the South Stack Lighthouse and also the variety of birds that nest along the cliff faces. We were looking out for puffins and stonechats as well as seals and dolphins but didn’t see any of those. We did see a couple of small lizards but luckily not the snakes that had been mentioned as a possibility. And we also saw some Oystercatchers.

Oystercatchers

When we reached the bottom of the mountain we had 5 miles in the bag, and it seemed like the next 7 miles would be a breeze! I’m not going to grumble because it was beautiful – we were so spoilt with the blue skies, the turquoise seas shimmering in the sun, the dramatic cliffs and sandy coves … but a breeze it wasn’t. It was 7 miles of significant ups and downs in places, not on the mountain scale but certainly not flat. But I wouldn’t have missed it for the world (I can safely say that now I’m back home sitting in an armchair)!

Finally saw a F35B Lightning Fighter Jet

Along the way we saw many people kayaking, young and old, as well as a group of youngsters being taught to do abseiling and coast steering. And as we neared Trearddur Bay there were several beaches of outstanding beauty.

Kayaking

Coast steering

Abseiling

And finally we reached the beautiful Trearddur Bay Beach

Despite my own limitations, I would wholeheartedly say that today was yes, one of the tougher of days, but it was also the most magnificent in terms of scenery. So, if you are a walker and you’ve not visited this part of Anglesey, I would certainly recommend that you put it on your list.

It was a mountain of a day but now feeling mellow with a glass of red wine in Valley, watching the sun go down … and there it is in the distance – that’s the brute that is Holyhead Mountain.

From our house in Valley, we watched the sun set on Holyhead Mountain

Walking back to Valley

Monday 22nd April 2024

Porth Swtan to Valley

Like yesterday, today’s plan was to catch a bus and walk back to Valley – this time from a different direction. Our first mission was to find the bus stop in Valley and this ended up being a 2 mile wander until we found somewhere to stand in hope that the number 61 would stop to pick us up – this being the one daily bus going in that direction. Success, the driver stopped, although didn’t seem over impressed with me speaking in English. After an incredibly hairy ride along several of the narrowest country lanes, where the driver was definitely not taking any prisoners, we disembarked roughly near Porth Swtan and headed off to find the coastal path. This turned out to be another 2 mile walk. So before we even started our official coastal path mileage, we had walked 4 miles … we like to call them ‘bonus’ miles! Sadly there was nowhere open for coffee and cake … and this haunted us the whole day.

No evidence of this being a bus stop but we waited in hope – there was one bus a day at 11.44am!

And so we set off on the officially signed path – great signage today, didn’t get lost once. It was one of those undulating sort of days, enough ups and downs to keep you interested but nothing too dramatic. A mixture of terrain too – country and cliff top paths, tarmac lanes, farm fields, caravan parks, sand dunes, as well as stretches of beach – sand and pebbles. All pretty pleasant.

Finally, after 4 bonus miles, found ourselves on the Coast Path at Porth Swtan

John, Paul, George or Ringo?

Probably not recycling!?

Holyhead to Dublin in 3.5 hours

The weather was a little nippy today with chill winds so we were wrapped up. Three miles in we decided to stop for our picnic lunch as time was getting on. We found a sheltered spot on a pretty beach and tucked in – so wishing we had brought a hot drink with us. When another couple arrived and set up their picnic spot nearby, we were SO envious of their huge flask of coffee – we were positively drooling.

We set off feeling re-energised and not long after the sun began to peep through the clouds. We just can’t believe how lucky we’ve been with the weather – some friends of ours experienced a whole different climate a couple of weeks ago. Traipsed our way through fields of baby lambs that just melt your heart. Talked about identifying birdsong … but the seagull was about the best we could do! We did however manage to identify the roars of the F35 fighter jets flying over, even though we couldn’t see them.

A bridge too far?

Think these swans may have been nesting

Started to feel a little weary as the miles clocked up and unfortunately the last couple of miles were spent wading through mud again. The mild climate has definitely improved the ground but there’s definitely still some squelchy bits around. Had a long section of balancing on logs, clinging to the fence but still managing to sink into it occasionally … my trusty walking pole kept me upright however.

Then finally Valley was in sight and we wound our weary way around the village to our oh so comfortable accommodation. It was muddy boots and socks off and kettle on. After the official 10 miles of Coastal Path covered, plus our bonus 4 miles pre-path, 14 miles walking today deserved lashings of tea and biscuits. It felt good to be back in Valley.

Marathon Day Coastal Walking

Sunday 21st April 2024

Holyhead to Valley

Setting off from Holyhead Ferry terminal

No, we didn’t walk Marathon mileage today, but we did set off late morning so that we could see the start of the London Marathon on the TV, and we made it a short walk in order to be back to watch the finishers – we all had several friends running it today.

We’re staying in the village of Valley in North Anglesey, logistically planned for our walk around the coast of Holyhead (otherwise known as Holy Island).

Our new accommodation in Valley, North Anglesey – great views

Again it was all three Roses – Steve, David and myself – a right bunch!! We planned to get a train to Holyhead but there was a replacement bus service, which worked super nicely, particularly as it was free. And on arriving at the busy Ferry Terminal, there was just one thing to do before setting off – coffee and cake. It’s tough!

Impressive views of the Irish ferries as we left to start our walk along the estuary coastline, taking us through Penrhos Coastal Park. The beautiful woodland promised viewings of red squirrels but despite cricking necks, not a bushy tail was seen. There were minimal inclines today – it was a manageable and pleasant walk with perfect weather. While we had all the walking gear on, we passed many casually dressed Sunday strollers – must have thought that I was a real weirdo with a walking pole – I’m just not taking any chances ever again! It was mostly single track walking so we took it in turns to be the ‘pacer’ in true Marathon fashion.

And literally 300 yards before the end, just when we imagined arriving back with spotless boots, we hit a muddy cow field – but still nothing in comparison to earlier days so hardly worth a grumble. Just short of 5 miles today – a walk in the park.

Said muddy cow field, near home

And now we are back in our lovely accommodation, enjoying tea and biscuits, and scanning the sectioned TV screen, trying to catch sight of those green Redway Runners’ T-shirts, as well as our friends in their Charity T-Shirts, crossing that famous finish line.

The London Marathon finish line.

Congratulations everyone!

And back to yesterday: Saturday 20th April 2024

We checked out of our stunning accommodation in Abersoch (early) in order to drive to Pwllheli for the parkrun. The most stunning of parkruns but one of the hardest too as it’s running on soft sand and pebbles. We all found it hard and definitely zero chance of a PB. Rewarded ourselves with a full Welsh Breakfast afterwards, as you do.

Pwllheli Beach – it doesn’t come more tranquil than this.

This is what we were running on though – tough going!

Drove up to Anglesey and then on to Holyhead – spent a couple of hours relaxing on the beautiful beach at Trearddur Bay – you see it’s not all hard work – before checking into our new accommodation in Valley.

Trearddur Bay

Even had a paddle

And the day before that: Friday 19th April 2024

While David did an admirable 18 mile coastal walk from Llanbedrog to Criccieth, Steve and I on the other hand had a leisurely morning and an indulgent lunch at The Sandbar restaurant on Abersoch beach. The weather was absolutely stunning, so much sunshine. We just had to finish the day off with a couple of beers at The Vaynol pub, watching the sun go down.

Views from the Sandbar restaurant, Abersoch Beach

A cheeky couple of Friday night beers!

So all in all the last few days have been wonderfully relaxed – with a little bit of running and walking thrown in. Now this feels like holiday.

A Valentine’s Day to remember

Wednesday 14th February 2024

In the 32 years we’ve been together, this is the first time that we’ve not exchanged Valentines Day cards, flowers, chocolates etc. We’re far too busy rambling! Actually, we were aware it was looming but it just caught us out in terms of acquiring said gifts. Nevertheless, what better than a stroll from Burnham-on-Sea to Weston-super-Mare … we’re just a pair of old romantics. 

We drove the car to Weston-super-Mare as yesterday’s reliance on public transport had added an extra 4 hours to our day out. Unfortunately we just missed a bus and had to wait an hour for the next No. 20 to Burnham. On arrival we were pleasantly surprised that we could walk along the beach (as opposed to the sand dunes) the 6 mile route taking us to Brean. It was overcast but dry and there was lots of life on the beach – dog walkers and children playing – a beautiful start to the day. There were frequent signs about sinking mud further out, so we made sure we kept close to the back of the beach. We didn’t need any stress today.

We stopped in Brean for refreshment and could see a huge climb ahead – Brean Down. Steve did mention that we could skip this part altogether but we just couldn’t bring ourselves to cheat – what is wrong with us!!? So up the flight of steps we went – 97 metres of it – but at least we could stay upright and there was a handrail … luxury! And boy was it worth it, the views were tremendous – looking out over the Bristol Channel towards South Wales and over the Somerset levels. We both said that in all our years of walking it was one of the most magnificent views we had seen. You see, there is some logic and benefits to this crazy life we lead. 

At the top is a site of a Roman temple and the path led us up and down to a National Trust property called Palmerston Fort – it is now a ruin but was built to defend the country against a possible Napoleonic invasion and later used in WWII. It was fairly muddy underfoot and slippery so we kept looking for shortcuts but they weren’t abundant. We were fairly close to the end of the headland when we spotted one – it meant a fairly steep descent so we took it steady – we had about a metre left to go when my feet went from underneath me and I took a slip slide down, caking myself in thick yellow mud. I wasn’t amused.

Palmerston Fort – National Trust

The cows have bells

Spotted a pheasant

Luckily the lower path was drier and flatter so I managed to compose myself as we walked back along the other side – we had magnificent views of Weston-super-Mare from here and it made it seem so much more doable. We found ourselves at a junction where a tarmac path would have taken us back to where we had lunched in Brean – but our OS app was indicating that the coastal path route was the other option – a muddy narrow path downhill through the woods. No prizes for guessing which path we chose. I don’t know why I did it because I grumbled and moaned the whole way down about it being ridiculous – I was extra nervous after my tumble. Once again, just shy of the end, I fell onto my side this time and collected an even more muddy look. My very words were “that’s it, I’m not taking any more risks.”

And to think we could have skipped the whole headland as we were pretty much back where we started an hour ago. But we would have missed the views!

It wasn’t even 5 minutes before we were forced to take said risk!! The coastal path sign indicated that the path was available between April and July. The trouble was that there didn’t seem to be any alternative and we had to get back to our car. Steve was getting concerned about getting back in daylight. The gates to the embankment path were open so on we went, and the next few gates were open too. It was wet, muddy and unpleasant but it least it was taking us back to where we needed to go. About halfway along the 3 mile stretch of embankment however, the gates were padlocked … but climb over we did in preference to going back. Our spirits were low but we trudged on and climbed over numerous gates. When we got to the turning point to take us to the other side of the estuary, we made the decision to abandon ship – we were facing another 3 or 4 miles of embankment walking and unknown territory in terms of locked gates etc. 

A rerminder of the dreaded estuary and its embankment wall

We found a route to a bus stop a mile away and then had to wait an hour for a bus into Weston-super-Mare. We cheered ourselves up with an orange Club biscuit – simple pleasures. We hated having to give up but we needed to get back safely. It was a bath, food and an early night for us – completely exhausted. Happy Valentines Day. xx

Thursday 15th February 2024

We’re taking a day or two off walking. The travelling to our start points is getting too long and complicated. We’ll be finding something a little more leisurely to do for a few days until we move further down the coast at the weekend. Planning a belated Valentines meal out today. 

Yesterday was a day to remember, perhaps a turning point in this retirement project of ours. We need to stay safe and we need to enjoy our times on the coast. So King Charles, if there’s no official coastal path we’re just not going to do it.