Who put a mountain in the middle of a Coastal Path walk!? We knew that Holyhead Mountain was lurking on one of the island walks but when you’re there, it’s pretty tough, thrown into the mixture of a 12-mile trek. Today was the day it had to be done!!

Wednesday 23rd April 2024

Holyhead to Trearddur – 12 miles

Up and out a bit earlier today to catch the train to Holyhead. Valley is a request stop so we nominated David to flag the train down, as we were the only passengers on the station platform. On arrival, we made our way over Holyhead’s quite magnificent bridge to a cafe named “Holly Molly” and tucked into rather delightful breakfasts and mugs of tea. Then we were ready for the off.

Picked up the coastal path signs quite easily and the first couple of miles were pretty plain sailing – all was well in our world. Yet another fair weather day – just can’t believe our luck. Gradually there was a sense of climbing but the paths were so accommodating that it wasn’t a struggle. There was a certain amount of winding around the mountain rather than steep ascents so still didn’t foresee any difficulty. And the views were to die for, wouldn’t want to have missed this.

However, as we got further up the 722 ft climb it got steeper and rockier underfoot and the same with the downhill sections. So I must admit to struggling somewhat on the top half of the mountain. Even with my trusty walking pole, I seem to have got more wobbly on these trickier terrains and my diminishing confidence results in me being slower. Steve and David don’t mind waiting for me or giving me a supporting hand from time to time but I do feel sad about not being such a capable rambler anymore.

Holyhead Mountain has diverse ecology and several sites of historical significance – there were numerous other walkers exploring its rugged paths. Many visitors come to see the South Stack Lighthouse and also the variety of birds that nest along the cliff faces. We were looking out for puffins and stonechats as well as seals and dolphins but didn’t see any of those. We did see a couple of small lizards but luckily not the snakes that had been mentioned as a possibility. And we also saw some Oystercatchers.

When we reached the bottom of the mountain we had 5 miles in the bag, and it seemed like the next 7 miles would be a breeze! I’m not going to grumble because it was beautiful – we were so spoilt with the blue skies, the turquoise seas shimmering in the sun, the dramatic cliffs and sandy coves … but a breeze it wasn’t. It was 7 miles of significant ups and downs in places, not on the mountain scale but certainly not flat. But I wouldn’t have missed it for the world (I can safely say that now I’m back home sitting in an armchair)!

Along the way we saw many people kayaking, young and old, as well as a group of youngsters being taught to do abseiling and coast steering. And as we neared Trearddur Bay there were several beaches of outstanding beauty.

Despite my own limitations, I would wholeheartedly say that today was yes, one of the tougher of days, but it was also the most magnificent in terms of scenery. So, if you are a walker and you’ve not visited this part of Anglesey, I would certainly recommend that you put it on your list.

It was a mountain of a day but now feeling mellow with a glass of red wine in Valley, watching the sun go down … and there it is in the distance – that’s the brute that is Holyhead Mountain.