A wet walk away from Weston-super-Mare

Tuesday 13th February 2024

The only thing I knew about Weston-super-Mare is that the tide is generally so far back, that it requires a hike if you fancy a swim. Today was my first visit and it involved catching two buses to get there – the 49 into Bristol Centre and then the X1, but straightforward enough. Our first impressions of Weston-super-Mare were good – we liked it. Its piers and hospitality were welcoming and the hotels with their bay views seemed grand and elegant. And ironically the tide was SO far in that the waves were lapping up onto the promenade. That’s how much I know! 

The Old Pier has seen better days!

But, as always, we were soon off to find the coastal path as our plan was to walk to Clevedon today. Steve was particularly anxious about the route as only such a small part of if was official Coastal Path – the rest he had to devise through the means of Ordnance Survey. What could possibly go wrong!? Being an estuary, so much of this coastline is mud flats and sea defence walls – with that and it being SO wet plus ongoing downpours, we made the executive decision to steer ourselves more inland and stick to walking on country roads in preference. At this ripe old age we have to put our Health & Safety hats on sometimes. Despite his meticulous planning, there can always be an element of surprise (e.g. locked bridges or flooding) so sometimes we have to just see how it goes. 

The leaving of Weston-super-Mare was a lovely stretch uphill with the scenic sea views on our left. As we reached Weston woods there was some roadside walking and then a path through the woods kindly took as away from the traffic noise just a little. We soon reached the village of Kewstoke and wandered through admiring some stunning houses. The ‘Private Pavement’ signs were a little officious however – naturally we just had to walk on them – such rebels!!

In the same village – obviously very precious about their parking!

Just out of the village we picked up signs for a cycle path to Clevedon … and what’s good for cyclists is certainly good for us. So for some time we wandered along country roads – diving into hedges sometimes as the odd speedy car appeared. There were a few railways crossings to manoeuvre and bridges too as we ducked and dived our way, avoiding motorways and other busy roads. 

Can you spot the garden shed travelling at 50mph?

Can you spot the Cross Country Express travelling at 100mph?

The bit of the route that Steve had worried about the most came to fruition in the shape of 5 farm fields that we had to squelch our way through, quite literally … it was gross. But he was so relieved that the promised bridge was in place, as was the ladder down to the stinky ‘ cattle creep” underpass … and so we managed to achieve a way through under the M5 Motorway. 

It’s a cattlecreep!

After that it was country roads all the way to Clevedon, albeit it stretching endlessly – the Beatles lyrics “long and winding road” came to mind for a good hour or so. Then Clevedon came into view and we were so grateful and, despite the miles, terrain and weather we’d encountered, we felt chuffed at what we’d achieved.

Some strange planters

Newborns

But of course there was one more killer spot at the end – Wain’s Hill – this involved us scrabbling up the steep cliff on all fours to reach the Coastal Path at the top to take us down into Clevedon beachfront. I’m sure there must have been an alternative route but, despite searching, we couldn’t find it anywhere. A fitting and unglamorous end to the walking day – I even came nose to nose with a terrier and frightened the life out of him! 

Finally we had returned to this very pretty seaside town of Clevedon where we rewarded ourselves with tea and shortbread in one of their very delightful cafes. What a day it had been – a lot of rain, a lot of mud … and 16 miles of walking. 

I have to give full credit to Mr. Rose for his genius in planning out these routes – I always trust him and sometimes it can go a little pear shaped but not today. And as for the King Charles III England Coast Path – where were you today? It just goes to show …. sometimes in life you just have to make your own path!

Coastal path or mud bath?

Sunday 11th February 2024

Checked out of the Travelodge first thing this morning and drove to Fishponds, a suburb of Bristol, where we are doing a house-sit for the next 7 days. Jess and her two children, Nico and Eleanor, are flying out to Tenerife – before they went they introduced us to all the gang who are now in our charge. We have 2 cats, Dave and Gathina, 2 guinea pigs, Guinness and Scraps and 2 quails who remain nameless! We’ve been warned about foxes so hoping to still have 6 pets on the register when the family return next Sunday. 

Once we were settled and the fridge and pantry were stocked up, we caught a bus into the city of Bristol. Neither of us have been here for a long long time so we were interested to explore. Took in all the sights, visited the M Shed, Brunel’s SS Great Britain, the cathedral, took a ferry – we loved it. So many cafes, bars and restaurants – I hear it’s a great place for a Stag Weekend.

It’s a Banksy y’know!

Monday 12th February 2024

Today’s walk – Clevedon to Pill (11 miles)

Drove to Pill and parked up, planning to catch the two necessary buses to get us to Clevedon. A little bit of a mix up with bus timings resulted in us taking an Uber instead. Lovely driver though who takes us right to the seafront and recommended a place for breakfast. So ‘Tiffens’ it was … and I can highly recommend the bacon bap. Clevedon is a pretty Victorian seaside town but it was just a short stop for us before we set off to find the Coastal Path. 

Steve’s breakfast at Tiffen’s – a posh full English

Clevedon Pier

It was a wonderful path today, cliffside, walking alongside the estuary, uphill and downhill through woodland, sounds of the seabirds and waves making us feel coastal, the sun was shining and there was a cool breeze … the only downside was the mud … 6 miles of it. It took all our concentration and balance to stay upright – there were many slips and slides and grabbing on to whatever was available. We passed many other walkers and we all exchanged our mud tales. But I’m proud to say we both made it through without a complete tumble – thank God for walking boots – today they well and truly met the mud. 

This was a dry patch

The two River Severn bridges into Wales

We passed ‘Sugar Loaf Beach’ which sounded like a Caribbean paradise … it was pretty but not quite at that level.

At Portishead, another very attractive resort with stunning houses, we stopped for refreshment at the Lido – Steve tucked into a huge slab of Victoria sponge. I stupidly abstained but immediately regretted it. And they didn’t frown at our oh so muddy boots!

After Portishead, there was a bit more woodland walking, then some country lanes and bridle paths to lead us all the way back to Pill, where our trusty car awaited. The terrain improved although there were still some muddy patches and deep puddles lurking. We couldn’t help but be fascinated by the miles and miles of car storage facilities in this area – brand new shiny cars all lined up waiting to go somewhere – wish they could spare us one. 

Pick a car … any car!!

In May 2023, the England Coast Path was renamed The King Charles III England Coast Path, to mark the coronation. I think I might be writing to Charlie boy to get some of this mud cleared up before someone goes over the edge!