On our last legs … on the Sussex Coastline

We had decided to make today our last walk for this trip. We had had a day off yesterday to recover from Monday’s ‘Shingle Nightmare’ and also to spend time with our long-time pal, Bridget. So, although Steve was banding around the idea of 15 miles, initially I thought I would just do part of it, but then I felt up to a final push. We got the train to Chichester and a bus to Pagham, setting off from the beach we’d started from on Monday – obviously walking in the other direction.

Elvis and us are leaving the building in Pagham

The road out of Pagham had an eclectic feel – some modern builds but a number of ramshackle properties too – but all had that seasidey appeal. A decent path continued on beachside until we reached the mudflats which was a large area of nature reserve. We had a good mile stretch, with lots of hellos, as we passed groups of birdwatchers and dog walkers – clearly a popular place. The only problem was that I was desperate to ‘spend a penny’ – we’re just not used to so many people being about. (It’s ironic using the phrase ‘spend a penny’ when I’d paid a pound to use a public toilet earlier in the week)!!

A green Woodpecker shared the path with us at one point and then a single magpie (oh no)! … but after our salutes, he was joined by his companion and we relaxed into knowing it would be a joyous day.

Pagham nature reserve

Part of our walk today was along the Selsey Tram Trail, a linear path between Chichester and Selsey which had operated as a Tramway between 1896 and 1935. This brought us out into the pretty village of Church Norton where once again there were stunning properties to admire.

6 miles in and we had reached the pretty seaside town of Selsey, and it was perfect timing to find a picnic bench beside the sea to have our sandwiches. It was sunny blue sky day today and we enjoyed the warmth of the sun as we tucked in. I was stripped down to my T-shirt by now – Steve was still clinging on to his thick jacket and many layers!

From here on we hit the odd patch of shingle walking but not too much to have a major grumble about. Even at Selsey Bill (8 miles in) where there would have been an opportunity to get the bus back to Chichester, we were still embracing all the walk had to offer in way of the interesting and varied settings and terrain. It made a change to walk through several small villages – I do love a house nosey. There were farm areas and woodland too and these easier paths were so much kinder to my increasingly sore feet.

These benches looked so precarious

Some madman out running – but just over and over a very small stretch!

My energy levels were telling me I needed another break around 11 miles – after some tummy rumbling and further endurance we finally found a bench at about 12 miles – we tucked into scotch eggs and re-quenched ourselves. Still feeling surprisingly upbeat, I used that well worn phrase “just a park run to go.” Steve suddenly dropped it on me that it might be a little further than that! My focus the whole day had been set on 15 miles – I now had to readjust and convince myself I could still do it (at the same pace and without moaning that is)!!

But the crunch came at the 15 mile spot when we were faced with 1.5 miles of shingle walking along Bracklesham Bay – absolutely savage. My blistered feet were screaming out to me to stop. Steve manages this terrain so much better and wandered ahead, so I was always on catch up. So, for 15 miles I loved it and felt such great achievement … but I resorted to be being a big grump for the very last bit. Still we did it, 16.5 miles in total today – truly a lovely section, except for the end!

That dastardly shingle!!!!!

The final straw – Bracklesham Bay shingle walkSteve marching ahead!

We have walked 7 out of the 12 days we have been doing our house-sit in Hove and have walked 84 miles in total – a healthy chunk ticked off. It’s been a privilege to discover this Sussex coastline in all its beauty and in all its ups and downs. We’ve had a great time catching up with Sussex friends – Hannah, Bridget, Keith and Andrea. And we’ve loved looking after Jack and Zena our two furry friends who’ve been a delight.

Going home now to have a rest … and perhaps to invest in a new pair of walking boots!

Bye-bye Jack and Zena

Beachy Head … are we there yet!?

Wednesday 8th October 2025

Even after yesterday’s tough hilly 11 mile walk, I’d mentally prepared myself for another long trek today but happy that Steve’s planning had assured us that after the first 3-4 miles things would get flat. And indeed that was correct. But unfortunately by the end of the day our spirits were equally flat – I will explain later!

Two bus journeys again to get us to the start but we discovered that if you get a bus with ‘X’ after the number there are limited stops, hence quicker. There were no buses all the way to Birling Gap so we alighted at East Dean and walked the mile through this pretty village, mostly downhill, to get to our starting point. Another Chinese hot spot, in fact there were bus loads of tourists of all nationalities, all milling around, soaking up the splendour of this dramatic chalk coastline.

Starting off from Birling Gap

We knew we had to tackle the infamous Beachy Head today but had no idea how far along the walk it would be. We were immediately faced with a steep climb and thought maybe this was it … but as we got to the top we saw a bigger climb looming and so on and so on – the climbs kept coming. About 3 miles in we were finally there, at the highest white chalk sea cliff in Britain, so so stunning but carrying the sadness of numerous deaths – both intentional and non-intentional. We stayed well back from the edge – although the coast path felt a little precarious at points. On our 3 mile climb up we seemed to be the only walkers going in that direction … but there were large groups heading downhill, many young people presumably on school trips. Discovering a car park at the top, we guessed that tourists are left to roam the 3 miles downhill and get picked up at the bottom – they must have thought we were bonkers!

Finally reached Beachy Head

An uplifting message at Beachy Head

After having dragged our weary bodies uphill for such a stretch, the path then took us dramatically downhill in a very steep descent. This lovely long easy flat section took us all the way into Eastbourne where we walked through elegant streets and then onto the promenade stretch where we stopped to enjoy our lunch, celebrating the fact that it would all be easy from here. The sea looked absolutely inviting and there were several swimmers and paddlers – this was more like it.

Eastbourne promenade

From here we walked on and on, all easy flat terrain and then in Pevensey Bay the path turned onto the pebble beach. We had walked about 9 miles at this point and did not feel up to a hard stretch of pebble walking, so using our OS app found a road option. Unfortunately we had not been aware of the magnitude of the Marina complex we were getting ourselves entangled in – 40 minutes later we reconnected with the path and looking back estimated the pebble torture might have lasted about 10 minutes! Lesson learnt.

But we hadn’t fully escaped – we kept being forced back to pebble walking – it was painful – our spirits were dipping. When we reached the village of Pevensey Bay we discussed stopping but thought another 3 mile push to Normans Bay would be a good option due to transport links. We were meeting our friend Bridget in Pevensey later but we still had plenty of time, to walk on and then get the train or bus back. Luckily it was mostly road with a few pebble sections thrown in for good measure. We clocked up 13 miles at Normans Bay and our legs, knees, hips had just about had it. The sight of the train station was like a mirage! But a sadness meant disaster for us – someone had chosen to jump on the railway line so all trains were cancelled. And a two hour wait for the bus. So it was a long, quietly fuming, 3 mile walk back to Pevensey village.

Happy to report an upward turn from here though. We took refuge in a wonderfully friendly Mediterranean bar/restaurant called ‘Massilia Bay’ where the tiresome day turned into a fun evening with our friend Bridget, great food, great beer, great company. And Bridget drove us all the way back to Hove – our hero. (So much relaxation that we forgot to take a photo – but hopefully we’ll be seeing Bridget again).

The official coastline covered today was 13 miles but we actually walked 17 miles with the extra bits. I think it might be a rest day tomorrow.

The Ups and Downs of Sussex coastline walking

Tuesday 7th October 2025

Well today it was all about ‘the Climb’ – several of them – as we rambled our way from Newhaven to Birling Gap, taking in the South Downs National Park and its sea eroded section known as the Seven Sisters, characterised by its magnificent chalk cliff faces. I have to say it was a tough 11 mile walk. In our running circles there’s a popular saying … “Hills are our friends” … but are they, really!!!?

It took us two buses to get to our starting point at Newhaven, but we were maximising on our OAP privileges to get there for free! The initial walk through Newhaven wasn’t too inspiring as we circled the port area, through the old tide mills and onto the promenade at Seaford. Treated ourselves to a cappucino stop at the sailing club as we could see the first climb was just ahead.

Leaving Newhaven

So up the hill we went and down the other side. Coming down these hills is Heaven, all smooth and grassy and at a decent angle – you feel like flying! We could see quite a gathering of people ahead as we neared Cuckmere Haven, where there are some famous Coastguard Cottages and the area is known for its photographic beauty. This is where we met our first group of Chinese tourists – they were having a ball snapping all the local sights and posing for British seaside selfies. With these views and just over 5 miles in, it seemed the perfect spot to utilise a well positioned bench to tuck into our picnic lunch.

Shortly after this, the coastal path signs took us inland a little, some river inlets to get around. Passing quite a few more Chinese explorers on the path who were clearly very interested in this stretch of coastline – always exchanging cheery hellos. We reached a main road and then veered off to the right. We had a choice of concrete low lying path or a path that took us up a steep hill – we took the latter guessing it would be a shortcut. You guessed it – we ended up back on the concrete path! But the torturous climb was SO worth it for the spectacular views – well I can say that now as I sit on the couch with my glass of wine, looking at the photos! The meandering river views reminded me so much of my Geography Teacher, Mrs. Sawyer – she used to wax lyrical about this sort of thing. Along this ‘unnecessary’ climb too we came face to face with horned cows. Steve used his usual shooing method and they fortunately obliged.

Meandering rivers

From here we had a little lowland section that involved some extremely active wild ponies – a lot of hand holding was necessary for me to hold my nerve, as beautiful a spectacle as it was.

Beautiful wild ponies albeit a little lively

It was at this point that we finally hit the traversing of the Seven Sisters Cliffs. I’m not lying – they weren’t easy. Each time you thought the next one would be less steep but as soon as you faced the climb it seemed ridiculously steep. But we did it and survived – not without a few breathing stops I must say. And those breathing stops allowed me a look back to see the splendour of what we’d been walking – it was all so marvellous.

As beautiful as this coastal path had been, I have to say I was relieved when we finally took the downhill path into Birling Gap. Didn’t get a chance to enjoy this spot, apart from the toilet and ice-cream, but we’ll be back. This had been an 11 miles of hard but spectacular coastal path walking. Just to get the bus back to Hove now. Sadly disaster struck, turned out we were out of season – it was only then we had recollections of Hannah suggesting this might be a thing! So, guess what, another 1.1 mile walk to the nearest bus stop … and naturally it was UPHILL!!

Again two buses to get back to our accommodation in Hove, and it took 2 hours … but free! Now, we’ve showered, eaten and had some ‘refreshments’ we’re back to being mellow. Our limbs and joints may be creaking and cranking after a day on the South DOWNS but our spirits are well and truly UP. We constantly say to ourselves how lucky we are to be able to do this … and long may it last.

Meeting Colin … the cat!

Friday 5th September 2025

We travelled early from MK to the pretty village of Terrington St.Clement (Norfolk) for our next house-sitting assignment. This is providing us with the opportunity to complete a 35 mile stretch of ‘The Wash’ and so filling a gap we have between Lincolnshire and Norfolk. Janet, the lovely house owner, gave us a tour of the house and introduced us to Colin – you can tell she absolutely adores him, and why not, he’s gorgeous. Great name!

Gedney Drove End to Sutton Bridge

We decided to get an easy 6 miler in today while we had the benefit of a lift, from Janet, to Gedney Drove End (Lincolnshire) – this is why we have the gap as it’s a stretch not easily accessed by public transport. A beautiful spot but it felt like the back of beyond. It didn’t take long to find the embankment wall, today’s start to the coastal path. This county has a beauty all of its own – miles and miles of flat land, lush green and arable golds and enhanced today with stunning blue skies. For the first mile we had potatoes to our left and cabbages to our right – that’s dinner sorted!!

Cabbages, cabbages and more cabbages ….

The back breaking job of picking the cabbages

A construction diversion took us off the path and we had some very manageable path and road walking for a while. Then onto an estuary path where some particularly inquisitive cows didn’t seem at all phased with us walking between them – just close up staring! This took us all the way to Sutton Bridge where we had clocked up 6.5 miles.

A fabulously easy walk, delicious lunch at Pippa’s Pantry and a pleasant bus ride home.

Isn’t this the cutest milk jug you’ve ever seen – Pippa’s Pantry, Sutton Bridge

All went so smoothly … that is, until we hit the Co-op! We stocked up on all the Members’ bargains only to find out at the till that, although the offers are identical nationally, your Membership card is only regional. After much discussion, a little time and some stress, we managed to download the app to become local members … and saved ourselves £12!!

Saturday 6th September 2025

After a comfortable night’s sleep in our temporary abode, we were up with the larks to drive to Sandringham for today’s Parkrun. A beautifully flat and picturesque course – no Royal runners but a very friendly bunch.

I took a break in the run to meet the Sandringham Bear

Let’s do the Canvey Island Loop

Friday 9th May 2025

Oh yes please, what fun!! A nice easy start, catching the regular train from Thorpe Bay station into Benfleet and from there a 200 yard walk to the path onto Canvey Island.

Neither of us had any idea of what to expect and we were both immediately struck by the organised signage, the well maintained paths, the incredibly stylish houses and the general neatness …. I’m talking Stepford Wives neatness. Nothing out of place and signs saying ‘not to do this and not to do that ..’ – we felt we needed to be on our best behaviour.

It was mostly sea defence wall walking but with pleasant views of the island itself and also across the water we could enjoy the spectacle of the Kent countryside. The sky was so blue today, practically cloudless, the sun was shining although a little breezy too. We rambled on quite contentedly, lapping up the flat and easy terrain. We came across Shell’s Marina Tearoom after 5 miles and treated ourselves to an early break – Steve had a mid morning snack of bacon and cheese toasted flatbread and I resisted, just had a caffeine top up!

Looking across to Kent

An early rest break at Shell’s Marine Tearoom

There was a more touristy section of the island with bars, cafes, amusements and funfairs – I’m sure this is popular in the summer months. And there is a man made beach and promenade which made for a pretty stroll, plenty of people about. At said beach, 6.5 miles in, we considered stopping for our picnic lunch but then decided to get a little further. Of course, big mistake, hindsight and all that … it was another 3 miles before we found a suitable spot to stop. The main reason being that we hit a stretch of industrial eyesore with an unpleasant stench of gas, not conducive to tucking into sandwiches and fruit.

Canvey Island football stadium

The beach

Feeling replete once again, we headed on, leaving the heavy industry behind and enjoying an area of countryside. Some beautiful birds today and wild flowers but a noticeable lack of butterflies. Sadly, this is where the day’s enjoyment took a bit of a turn. We came across one of those gates with the dreaded ‘beware of the bull’ warnings! My anxiety immediately went up a couple of notches while Steve came out with his typical country boy confidence, saying “well, do you really want to turn back!? After 11 miles of walking you find you don’t give the response you think you might!! I stayed close on Steve’s heels for the next couple of miles, constantly scanning the area and trying to come up with a contingency plan. I’d seen a solo magpie earlier and, although I’d said “Good morning Mr. Magpie,” I just felt there was an element of sorrow looming. Suffice to say, no bull showed up and we lived to tell the tale.

Then, after a mile or two of that angst, the coastal path turned into the narrowest of high paths that became increasingly overgrown the further we went. There was nothing we could do, we just had to suffer it in silence, I absolutely hated it. You have to close your mind off to what might be lurking below and tread carefully so that nothing trips you up. Eventually, after what seemed like hours, we broke free and made our way to the road and off the island.

Try picking your way through this for 2 miles!

So a day of mixed terrain and mixed emotions … but we did complete the 14.5 mile loop. It certainly hasn’t shifted this illness that I seem to have so, change of plan – I am now going to rest for a few days … apart from an easygoing Parkrun tomorrow.

Saturday 10th May 2025

Southend Parkrun – a beautiful 3 lap course. More looping!!