Tuesday 10th September 2024

Day 9 – Rhossili to Oxwich

Without doubt, one of the toughest days of walking we have done in some time.

We started off fully positive after yesterday’s wonderful stroll, looking forward to more of this absolutely spectacular Gower coastline. It was incredibly windy – we were being battered and blown around by the elements, which makes moving even more tiring. Not far in we turned a corner and at least the wind was on our backs, which was a huge benefit. And at least it was dry.

Very close to the edge clifftop walking – at times it was just best not to look down. But amazing sea views, the waves crashing dramatically against the rocks. Some more wild Welsh ponies dotted around the grassy sections too, all very beautiful.

What wasn’t so lovely was the number of ascents and the steepness of the ascents and then the inevitable descents. It’s impossible to describe how exhausting the climbs were and even worse when I took a tumble, face-planting on to the rocks I was scrabbling over – luckily my left knee took the impact rather than my face. The severity of the terrain really slowed our walking down so it was about 6 hours on our feet today.

We stopped off for lunch at Port Eynon, after 8 miles of walking, where we treated ourselves to hot drinks and a shared bowl of chips to lift our spirits – before tucking into our sandwiches. It was at this time that the rain started, adding to the still blustery weather … and it just got wetter and wetter. We’d all had quite enough by this stage but we soldiered on, keeping fingers crossed for an easier path. No such luck – it only got worse!

The last headland was the headland that kept giving, it was endless. It took us through a nature reserve woodland and although it was beautiful with trees, plants and birdsong, it was just outright cruel in the number of steps up and the number of steps down … repeat. My knee was causing me pain by now and I just could have sat and cried. Steve also was experiencing some muscle pain in his leg so David and Ros were like mountain goats in comparison.

Massive relief when we reached Oxwich and in our dripping wet and exhausted state we slumped into the car for the journey home. We had minimum time to recover as we had to shower, eat and head off to Mumbles to meet up with lovely friends, David and Bethan. David R came too as he was meeting up with some University chums that he hadn’t seen for 42 years! We all met up together in The Pilot pub and had a fabulously fun evening, including a great Welsh sing song. Such a perfect tonic after a truly tough day.

I was reminded today that I should know my limits – as tomorrow’s planned walk appears to be similar to today, it is highly likely that I will be taking a day off.

Monday 9th September 2024

Day 8 – Landimore to Rhossili

Well, what a difference a day makes. Today was the most fabulous day of coastal walking and completely dry. We decided to jump up the coast a bit while we had the use of two cars (David R has to leave us on Wednesday). Aiming to cover a couple of sections that have limited public transport, before David goes. So, two cars it was and a lot of narrow country road driving. Lots of splashes on the vehicles but no bumps.

We set off from Landimore, embracing the dryness, although there was definitely a nip in the air. We soon hit an area of marshland that was easy enough to cross but came a little unstuck at some rather sunken stepping stones … not to mention a bull like creature peering at us from the field opposite. We beat a hasty retreat and found an alternative.

The alternative was a muddy climb and guess who forgot her walking pole … AGAIN!!! It was still a wise choice though especially as just 3 miles in we stumbled across a wonderful cafe/post office in Llanmadoc, run by community volunteers. The coffee and cakes were first class. We got chatting to Anne, the former post-mistress and now volunteer who gave us an insight into the village activities. A superbly friendly establishment and well stocked with all sorts of delicious goodies – I would highly recommend. A pretty area too with cute sheep just wandering around the roads.

From here there was some road walking but, unlike yesterday, they were perfectly peaceful country lanes. In fact we had a whole collection of walking terrain today – sand dunes, beautiful beach strolling, paths thick with wet mud, cliff edges and hills, many hills. One hill was so steep that if I’d been the last one going up, I’d probably still be there now. Half way up with each step I kept falling backwards – luckily my gallant friend, David Rose, was on hand to give me a shove up.

We met many a sheep on the path today but also some horses with young foals – not at all phased by us walking by.

A beautiful day all in all – the climbs were worth it for the stunning views of the numerous amazing beaches along this bit of coastline, just glorious. Even the wind died down and the sun came out to play – blue sky makes the world of difference to the rambling experience.

9.5 miles covered today. Home and recovered and now about to brave the Langland Bay sea – just can’t get enough of this place.

Sunday 8th September 2024

Day 7 – Port Talbot to Swansea

And then there were four. Our lovely David Jockel had to leave us yesterday to return to something they call ‘work’ … sounds like a swear word to me!!

Sadly, yet another day of setting off in the rain. Drove to Swansea, train to Port Talbot and hot footed it down to the promenade to commence our stroll back to the car – a mere 12 miles or so. Despite the evident wetness, we were uplifted by the wonderful stretch of Swansea Bay beach and envied the groups of kayakers enjoying their Sunday morning activities.

It was soon a choice between heavy going sand dune walking and the easier coastal path route of roadside – rightly or wrongly we chose the roads … BUSY roads!! Unfortunately we had to endure about 7 miles of that, in the rain, struggling to find ourselves an acceptable picnic spot. We finally turned off the main road into the village of Jersey Marine and pounced upon the first bench, despite the continuing drizzle, to devour our sandwiches. It was way beyond lunchtime and we were ravenous. To any passers by we must have looked hilarious.

From this point we had a two mile amble along the riverbank. The path started off a little narrow and uneven, as well as wet and muddy underfoot. The river was unnervingly high and flowing fast as we fought our way through overgrown bulrushes and ferns plus the inevitable brambles and stinging nettles – we could have been in the Amazon jungle. Half way along it morphed into a tarmac surface, and comfortably wider. In our damp state we uttered those immortal words .. “just a parkrun to go.”

The final stretch was back to busy and noisy traffic in the city of Swansea, as we trudged our way back to the station car park. It had been a day of contrasts, it had been a day of downpour, it had been one of those days that just had to be done to complete the coastal path. David suggested the word ‘perfunctory’ which I thought was a great word – checking the dictionary later I would agree with ‘carried out without real interest’ but I would challenge the ‘without effort’ part. But I don’t like to disagree with teachers … it’s not respectful.

Now we’re back, showered, dry and warm and Steve has a roast chicken dinner on the go. Our grey day is now positively glowing.

Friday 6th September 2024

Day 5 – Port Talbot to Porthcawl

At this morning’s initial planning discussion, Steve suggested that we had a choice between the high road or the low road on leaving Port Talbot. Of course, we immediately burst into song with Ros giving us a wonderfully melodic rendition of this old Scottish song … whilst laying the breakfast table I might add.

We had the same taxi driver as yesterday take us to Port Talbot so the day started off with some fine banter – what a jolly chap! He dropped us off at the train station and the choice had been made to take the ‘low road.’ Seeing the hills towering over us we felt we had made the right decision but the low road did involve 5 miles of industrial grimness (steel works and power station) plus walking alongside a busy road, including lorries, with no coastline visible!

The steel works, due to close!

Plus it was literally pouring with rain … one of those days when you really think `’why?? what’s wrong with us!!??’

But, lo and behold, it got better and better. We eventually took a countryside path that led us to sand dunes. Not always my favourite terrain but sand means that the beach is getting nearer and industrial gloom and busy roads are being left behind. The rain eased up too. After 6.5 miles of walking we found the perfect spot to sit and dangle our legs in the dunes, with sea views, for today’s yummy picnic. And the rain had completely vanished.

The sand dunes gradually became grass covered so positively luxurious to walk on and then we were treated to a long stretch of boardwalk – they’re making life so easy for us in these parts. Finally we reached the promenade that led us to our destination in Porthcawl.

Having been deprived of any coffee stops all day (not a cafe in sight), we had an ice-cream on the prom, a cream tea when we got home and takeaway fish and chips for dinner. As Mr. Punch says “that’s the way to do it.”

12 more miles in the bag.

Saturday 7th September 2024

Started the day with a run and ended the day with a swim …can’t be bad!

After a night of heavy rain, thunder and lightening, this morning was dry … the five of us set off eagerly to join the Porthcawl parkrun – a pleasant 5k out and back along the promenade. An arranged late check out enabled us to go back and shower before moving on to our new destination. A beautiful drive along the coast, through Swansea and the Mumbles to reach our swanky sea view apartment in Langland Bay. And the sea was definitely calling … well for some of us anyway … a fabulous swim and it’s like a bath!!

And the good new is that my recent blogs seem to have been reinstated on Facebook. I’ve been forgiven for whatever it was I did. If the ‘sensitive information’ I allegedly gathered was Ros and David’s kissing gate embrace, I can assure you that I had full permission … and I captured only one of several incidents of this each walking day! Or as my son Tom said, possibly I could be arrested for ‘being old fashioned’ – referring to my description of tucking into our picnic lunch on Day 1.

Who knows? – quoting Toyah Wilcox .. “it’s a mystery”.

Thursday 5th September 2024

Day 4 – Southerndown to Porthcawl

Treated ourselves to a taxi today as it was going to be a double bus fare day and this would have amounted to the same overall cost. We had a fabulous driver who regaled us with Welsh stories all the way – many laughs to start off the day.

It was an easy enough path along the coastline at Southerndown but sadly there was no way across the river – so a trek up the estuary it was .. what’s an extra 4 miles between friends.

It was raining today, a completely different weather day to yesterday. And it persisted.

As had been advised, we reached the river crossing point at the magnificent site of Ogmore Castle, an early 12th Century fortress, built to guard Glamorgan against attacks from the Welsh-held West. Here we had the delight of crossing the ancient stepping stones – slightly precarious but we all managed without a topple.

Then we crossed the bridge into the extremely picturesque village of Merthyr Mawr. The roads had been closed to cars but they allowed us humble walkers through. All very exciting as the village was set up for filming – film crews, vintage cars, film set designs and a large gang of security people all looking rather important. Despite questioning a few of them they were not giving away any information as to what what was being filmed … obviously a period drama of some sort – dying to find out.

From here we entered the famous Merthyr Mawl sand dunes, partly woodland – they are the second highest in Europe and quite fabulous. Not to grumble but the sand was soft and deep in places so progress was slow but we all made it out in one piece. And from the soft sand we moved on to beach walking where the sand was a little wet – we left deep footprints as we wound our way back to Porthcawl.

It was still raining as we arrived – 10 rambling miles today.

p.s. I’m going to attempt to post this on Facebook as I always do but my last two blogs have been removed as apparently have tried to gather sensitive information from others … it’s a complete mystery!!

p.p.s. I’m struggling to upload photos for some reason – when I get back to MK I need to get some help from a young person!!

Wednesday 4th September 2024

Day 3 – Gilestone to Southerndown

Up with the lark at 6.30am (well not me, I’m always last up) to prepare ourselves for our 13 mile walk … this is how we holiday!! Getting quite slick with our logistics now so drove to Southerndown, parked up and within minutes our trusty bus arrived. Slight mystery though as we had to pay for two tickets each as the service changed midway. So, one bus, one driver but two fares as the same bus that we sat on throughout changed from the 303 to the 304 – weird. The narrowest of country roads with many a stand off but we arrived in Gileston without a scratch.

The area was familiar to us from yesterday and we wandered down to where we knew the coastal path started. We’d had some indication from a walking couple yesterday that some of the path might be closed … Steve however insisted that he could use his nose and work it all out (size of nose jokes ensued). He also felt confident that his OS app would see us through so no need to panic – leading to more laughs about Steve being ‘App Man’ – he can switch from Co-op app to OS app in the blink of an eye. Anyway, David J had his trusty OS map and that could never fail us.

We found the path and we got off to a great start. Beautiful weather today, blue sky with a little wind to keep us cool. Stunning scenery from the off. We were walking and chatting our way up a pretty robust path when we were literally attacked verbally by an angry farm lady who came at us full barrels – “there’s a ‘keep to the footpath’ sign, can’t you read?” She was accompanied by two loudly barking dogs – they were only labradors but there was no way they were going to let us pass by her property. All five of us were so shocked by her outburst that we meekly turned back. We had missed an obscure makeshift sign that indicated a temporary and overgrown path to the left – it took us in a small circle for about 5 minutes and then back on to the path we had just come off. At every opening the dogs stood and barked – what a friendly homestead.

We walked from this point over a number of farm fields where no paths had been left for walkers, despite it being a public footpath – presumably the same farmer – boy, her ears must have been burning. Also we had to walk through a tunnel of brambles and nettles, the worst we have ever experienced – blood was drawn. That was her fault too. We discussed going back to say our piece … maybe another time!

A bit of beach walking too – the large pebble variety, that was interesting. Plenty of driftwood for makeshift walking poles – as usual I had left my walking pole in the boot of the car.

And then the dreaded sign appeared – ‘Path Closed due to Cliff Erosion.’ The trouble was that the only thing we could have done was to go back through the vicious brambles, back along the non-existent farm field paths, back to the barking dogs and crazy angry woman – well, basically back to the start. Team talk time – we decided to use all our gumption and sneak round the barrier and see what the closed off section was like. I know, we’re very naughty. It was about 100 yards section and about one yard of it was pretty close to the edge, but completely manageable. So much so that we went on to pass two other groups of walkers and we suggested that they could ignore the diversion too – praying that we don’t hear on the local news about some cliff fallers.

The walk just got better and better. Mostly cliff top with stunning views, numerous inclines and descents of course, woods, more pebbles, farm fields, cows and sheep – all wonderful. And I have to say, a very generous route for cafes and toilets – a rambler’s dream.

We had coffee at Llantwit Major and then walked on to admire the spectacle of St. Donat’s Castle. Our picnic spot for today was at Nash Point near the picturesque lighthouse. So much to enjoy on today’s ramble … and we passed many rambling groups too with whom we exchanged stories. Then, nearing the end we were able to visit the walled gardens of Dunraven Castle, dating back to 1543 – worth a stop off.

A final big trudge up yet another hill, brought us back to our destination at Southerndown. En route we completed our blackberry picking, essential ingredient for Steve’s promised blackberry crumble – if only our airbnb had sufficient dishes … I’m sure we’ll improvise.

13 miles today – it was a walk I’d highly recommend … but just beware of the Angry Woman!!

Monday 2nd September 2024

Day 1 – Cardiff to Barry Island

Yes, we’re back on that Coastal Path and once again accompanied by our very lovely friends – David Rose, Ros Crawley and David Jockel. We’re staying in airbnb’s and planning to walk each day over the next couple of weeks to move further along the South Wales coastline. It seems they must like us because they’ve come back for more. Quite incredible!!

For the first week, we’re based in Porthcawl – a pretty little cottage, not the best equipped but it does the job. And it’s near a beautiful beach.

Today we were up bright and early, drove to Barry Island and caught the train to Cardiff. Lovely train ride to start the day’s adventure. We were pretty wrapped up as the weather was damp and overcast … but nothing dampened our spirits as this was the first day and we were full of expectation.

We’d had experience of walking from Cardiff (walking in the other direction) and recalled the lack of coastal path signage, so we were super careful of heading in the right direction this time. We had the delight of wandering alongside a pea green canal, horribly littered too but still with elegant swans gliding along and herons perching alongside.

But things got better and better. Interesting to see different parts of the city and then a pretty sizeable hill climb took us up to cliff tops and sea views, from time to time lurching into woodland walking. The day got warmer and warmer too and the layers were removed one be one.

Lots of walking and talking today – the very best way to do it … it’s all about distraction. Along the narrow woodland paths there was an abundance of berries. Huge succulent blackberries there for the picking. I could feel Steve twitching to get at them to add to his winter stock. There was also elderberries, rose hip and sloes. Ros was so informative about methods of making wines, cordials, gin and syrups – I need to get foraging.

About half way through (or so we thought), we reached Penarth Beach with its very pretty and well maintained pier, so there was a group decision to stop for our picnic lunch. With gay abandon we tucked into our chicken and avocado sandwiches – such sophistication.

And so we continued on our way.

Unfortunately, the last few miles saw us strolling back to Barry Island, via Barry and via Barry Docks, along a busy ‘A’ road, so not the most inspiring. The fact that what we’d estimated it to be a 12 mile walk and the reality was that it was a 15 mile walk led to even more weariness. But you know us, we didn’t grumble!!

Barry Island had livened up a bit by this time, with waltzers, rollercoasters and screaming in full force, kids making the most of their last bit of freedom before the new school year began. We would have joined in but we were dizzy enough from the excitement of a day on the path.

From here it was home for recovery and … Coq Au Vin on the menu tonight … it was absolutely scrumptious.

Tuesday 3rd September 2024

Day 2 – Barry Island to Gilestone

We left home at 8am and reached Barry Island at 10.30am, having driven and parked up in Gilestone, then literally a run up the hill to the bus, catching it in the nick of time. Luckily there were a few good sprinters amongst us!! A minute or two later would have seen us hanging around for another hour. So all went like clockwork.

And it was a sunny day today – blue sky and a fresh wind, just perfect for walking. The clamminess of yesterday had passed.

A wonderful day of scenery again today – beaches, woodlands, cliff tops, fascinating rock formations, roman ruins and even a power station! Quite a few hills to climb I must say and the downhill slopes and steps to go with it. But nothing slippy, slimy or treacherous, so all good.

Another great day of walking and half of yesterday’s mileage – 7.5 miles. Nothing outrageous to report. We have considered making some things up and the ideas included falls off the pier, daring do rescues, shark attacks, buried treasure and pirates, dinosaur prints and a gigantic race of seagulls taking over the world. But who’d believe us?

What did happen though is that 4 out of the 5 of us went swimming when we got back to Porthcawl and it was great – warm and wavy and loads of fun. We have photos to prove it.