We had decided to make today our last walk for this trip. We had had a day off yesterday to recover from Monday’s ‘Shingle Nightmare’ and also to spend time with our long-time pal, Bridget. So, although Steve was banding around the idea of 15 miles, initially I thought I would just do part of it, but then I felt up to a final push. We got the train to Chichester and a bus to Pagham, setting off from the beach we’d started from on Monday – obviously walking in the other direction.

The road out of Pagham had an eclectic feel – some modern builds but a number of ramshackle properties too – but all had that seasidey appeal. A decent path continued on beachside until we reached the mudflats which was a large area of nature reserve. We had a good mile stretch, with lots of hellos, as we passed groups of birdwatchers and dog walkers – clearly a popular place. The only problem was that I was desperate to ‘spend a penny’ – we’re just not used to so many people being about. (It’s ironic using the phrase ‘spend a penny’ when I’d paid a pound to use a public toilet earlier in the week)!!

A green Woodpecker shared the path with us at one point and then a single magpie (oh no)! … but after our salutes, he was joined by his companion and we relaxed into knowing it would be a joyous day.

Part of our walk today was along the Selsey Tram Trail, a linear path between Chichester and Selsey which had operated as a Tramway between 1896 and 1935. This brought us out into the pretty village of Church Norton where once again there were stunning properties to admire.

6 miles in and we had reached the pretty seaside town of Selsey, and it was perfect timing to find a picnic bench beside the sea to have our sandwiches. It was sunny blue sky day today and we enjoyed the warmth of the sun as we tucked in. I was stripped down to my T-shirt by now – Steve was still clinging on to his thick jacket and many layers!

From here on we hit the odd patch of shingle walking but not too much to have a major grumble about. Even at Selsey Bill (8 miles in) where there would have been an opportunity to get the bus back to Chichester, we were still embracing all the walk had to offer in way of the interesting and varied settings and terrain. It made a change to walk through several small villages – I do love a house nosey. There were farm areas and woodland too and these easier paths were so much kinder to my increasingly sore feet.

My energy levels were telling me I needed another break around 11 miles – after some tummy rumbling and further endurance we finally found a bench at about 12 miles – we tucked into scotch eggs and re-quenched ourselves. Still feeling surprisingly upbeat, I used that well worn phrase “just a park run to go.” Steve suddenly dropped it on me that it might be a little further than that! My focus the whole day had been set on 15 miles – I now had to readjust and convince myself I could still do it (at the same pace and without moaning that is)!!

But the crunch came at the 15 mile spot when we were faced with 1.5 miles of shingle walking along Bracklesham Bay – absolutely savage. My blistered feet were screaming out to me to stop. Steve manages this terrain so much better and wandered ahead, so I was always on catch up. So, for 15 miles I loved it and felt such great achievement … but I resorted to be being a big grump for the very last bit. Still we did it, 16.5 miles in total today – truly a lovely section, except for the end!

We have walked 7 out of the 12 days we have been doing our house-sit in Hove and have walked 84 miles in total – a healthy chunk ticked off. It’s been a privilege to discover this Sussex coastline in all its beauty and in all its ups and downs. We’ve had a great time catching up with Sussex friends – Hannah, Bridget, Keith and Andrea. And we’ve loved looking after Jack and Zena our two furry friends who’ve been a delight.

Going home now to have a rest … and perhaps to invest in a new pair of walking boots!

Wednesday 8th October 2025

Even after yesterday’s tough hilly 11 mile walk, I’d mentally prepared myself for another long trek today but happy that Steve’s planning had assured us that after the first 3-4 miles things would get flat. And indeed that was correct. But unfortunately by the end of the day our spirits were equally flat – I will explain later!

Two bus journeys again to get us to the start but we discovered that if you get a bus with ‘X’ after the number there are limited stops, hence quicker. There were no buses all the way to Birling Gap so we alighted at East Dean and walked the mile through this pretty village, mostly downhill, to get to our starting point. Another Chinese hot spot, in fact there were bus loads of tourists of all nationalities, all milling around, soaking up the splendour of this dramatic chalk coastline.

We knew we had to tackle the infamous Beachy Head today but had no idea how far along the walk it would be. We were immediately faced with a steep climb and thought maybe this was it … but as we got to the top we saw a bigger climb looming and so on and so on – the climbs kept coming. About 3 miles in we were finally there, at the highest white chalk sea cliff in Britain, so so stunning but carrying the sadness of numerous deaths – both intentional and non-intentional. We stayed well back from the edge – although the coast path felt a little precarious at points. On our 3 mile climb up we seemed to be the only walkers going in that direction … but there were large groups heading downhill, many young people presumably on school trips. Discovering a car park at the top, we guessed that tourists are left to roam the 3 miles downhill and get picked up at the bottom – they must have thought we were bonkers!

After having dragged our weary bodies uphill for such a stretch, the path then took us dramatically downhill in a very steep descent. This lovely long easy flat section took us all the way into Eastbourne where we walked through elegant streets and then onto the promenade stretch where we stopped to enjoy our lunch, celebrating the fact that it would all be easy from here. The sea looked absolutely inviting and there were several swimmers and paddlers – this was more like it.

From here we walked on and on, all easy flat terrain and then in Pevensey Bay the path turned onto the pebble beach. We had walked about 9 miles at this point and did not feel up to a hard stretch of pebble walking, so using our OS app found a road option. Unfortunately we had not been aware of the magnitude of the Marina complex we were getting ourselves entangled in – 40 minutes later we reconnected with the path and looking back estimated the pebble torture might have lasted about 10 minutes! Lesson learnt.

But we hadn’t fully escaped – we kept being forced back to pebble walking – it was painful – our spirits were dipping. When we reached the village of Pevensey Bay we discussed stopping but thought another 3 mile push to Normans Bay would be a good option due to transport links. We were meeting our friend Bridget in Pevensey later but we still had plenty of time, to walk on and then get the train or bus back. Luckily it was mostly road with a few pebble sections thrown in for good measure. We clocked up 13 miles at Normans Bay and our legs, knees, hips had just about had it. The sight of the train station was like a mirage! But a sadness meant disaster for us – someone had chosen to jump on the railway line so all trains were cancelled. And a two hour wait for the bus. So it was a long, quietly fuming, 3 mile walk back to Pevensey village.

Happy to report an upward turn from here though. We took refuge in a wonderfully friendly Mediterranean bar/restaurant called ‘Massilia Bay’ where the tiresome day turned into a fun evening with our friend Bridget, great food, great beer, great company. And Bridget drove us all the way back to Hove – our hero. (So much relaxation that we forgot to take a photo – but hopefully we’ll be seeing Bridget again).

The official coastline covered today was 13 miles but we actually walked 17 miles with the extra bits. I think it might be a rest day tomorrow.

Tuesday 7th October 2025

Well today it was all about ‘the Climb’ – several of them – as we rambled our way from Newhaven to Birling Gap, taking in the South Downs National Park and its sea eroded section known as the Seven Sisters, characterised by its magnificent chalk cliff faces. I have to say it was a tough 11 mile walk. In our running circles there’s a popular saying … “Hills are our friends” … but are they, really!!!?

It took us two buses to get to our starting point at Newhaven, but we were maximising on our OAP privileges to get there for free! The initial walk through Newhaven wasn’t too inspiring as we circled the port area, through the old tide mills and onto the promenade at Seaford. Treated ourselves to a cappucino stop at the sailing club as we could see the first climb was just ahead.

So up the hill we went and down the other side. Coming down these hills is Heaven, all smooth and grassy and at a decent angle – you feel like flying! We could see quite a gathering of people ahead as we neared Cuckmere Haven, where there are some famous Coastguard Cottages and the area is known for its photographic beauty. This is where we met our first group of Chinese tourists – they were having a ball snapping all the local sights and posing for British seaside selfies. With these views and just over 5 miles in, it seemed the perfect spot to utilise a well positioned bench to tuck into our picnic lunch.

Shortly after this, the coastal path signs took us inland a little, some river inlets to get around. Passing quite a few more Chinese explorers on the path who were clearly very interested in this stretch of coastline – always exchanging cheery hellos. We reached a main road and then veered off to the right. We had a choice of concrete low lying path or a path that took us up a steep hill – we took the latter guessing it would be a shortcut. You guessed it – we ended up back on the concrete path! But the torturous climb was SO worth it for the spectacular views – well I can say that now as I sit on the couch with my glass of wine, looking at the photos! The meandering river views reminded me so much of my Geography Teacher, Mrs. Sawyer – she used to wax lyrical about this sort of thing. Along this ‘unnecessary’ climb too we came face to face with horned cows. Steve used his usual shooing method and they fortunately obliged.

From here we had a little lowland section that involved some extremely active wild ponies – a lot of hand holding was necessary for me to hold my nerve, as beautiful a spectacle as it was.

It was at this point that we finally hit the traversing of the Seven Sisters Cliffs. I’m not lying – they weren’t easy. Each time you thought the next one would be less steep but as soon as you faced the climb it seemed ridiculously steep. But we did it and survived – not without a few breathing stops I must say. And those breathing stops allowed me a look back to see the splendour of what we’d been walking – it was all so marvellous.

As beautiful as this coastal path had been, I have to say I was relieved when we finally took the downhill path into Birling Gap. Didn’t get a chance to enjoy this spot, apart from the toilet and ice-cream, but we’ll be back. This had been an 11 miles of hard but spectacular coastal path walking. Just to get the bus back to Hove now. Sadly disaster struck, turned out we were out of season – it was only then we had recollections of Hannah suggesting this might be a thing! So, guess what, another 1.1 mile walk to the nearest bus stop … and naturally it was UPHILL!!

Again two buses to get back to our accommodation in Hove, and it took 2 hours … but free! Now, we’ve showered, eaten and had some ‘refreshments’ we’re back to being mellow. Our limbs and joints may be creaking and cranking after a day on the South DOWNS but our spirits are well and truly UP. We constantly say to ourselves how lucky we are to be able to do this … and long may it last.