The weather looked a little iffy again today so we made a last minute decision to tick off another 5.5 miles, completing a gap between Weymouth and where we finished off yesterday, at the Cove House Inn in Portland.
A beautiful and mostly straightforward route – just one section which showed on our OS app as a coastal path but we would definitely not recommend it to fellow walkers. It was the path linking the top of Bincleaves to Castle Cove. It started off OK but became more and more overgrown, also extremely narrow with an unnerving drop to the left. A mile in and we had to make the decision to either turn back or tackle some uncomfortable climbing and slopes. Decided on the latter and literally took a step at a time, me clinging on to Steve, trees, shrubs, anything that came to hand. Definitely not for the faint hearted and I wouldn’t be doing it again.
Absolutely easy walk after that and we rewarded ourselves with a few beers at the end.
So I’ve been chilling down in sunny Weymouth for a couple of weeks, lapping up lazy days on the beach, swimming, playing tennis, plenty of dining and drinking opportunities with family and friends, the odd leisurely stroll … and then Steve arrives which can only mean one thing – Coastal Walking!!!!
It hadn’t actually been our intention but as the weather took a little turn and we still had some sections to cover down this way it seemed like a good idea. We chose to walk the beautiful island of Portland today, not far from where we are staying. We caught the bus from Weymouth Harbour up to the Portland Sailing Academy where we set off to tackle the infamous rugged and hilly paths.
Just past Portland Castle, we veered off to the right and boy did we go uphill, it was relentless. Believe it or not, this steep two mile path had previously been a horse drawn and cable operated incline railway, built for the island’s stone trade in 1826, from the working quarries at Tophill to a shipping pier at Castletown. Needless to say, it took a lot of effort, heavy breathing and rest breaks to reach the summit … and we kidded ourselves that that would be it for climbing, it surely must be all downhill now!!
The long climb up from Portland Harbour
The path took us around the two prisons, one in which Mr. Glitter and his gang of inmates reside – very rock and roll. Amongst the grimness of the stark grey buildings we constantly had the most spectacular views to our left, of the sailing activity in Portland Harbour, the Dorset coastline and fabulously blue seas.
Occasionally we wandered through woodland areas and many paths lined with vibrant purple buddleia, attracting a variety of butterflies. We were also surprised at the number of fully ripe blackberries – seems so early. The pretty path led us down numerous steps to Church Ope Cove then steeply upwards again to the gothic revival mansion Pennsylvania Castle. From here there was a little roadside walking until we picked up a cliff top path all the way to Portland Bill. Most of today’s path was pretty rugged underfoot (not to mention the hills) which made progress a little slow – but it’s not a race!
Church Ope CoveBeautiful buddleia
7 miles in we took a rest at Portland Bill, enjoyed a cup of tea from the famous ‘Lobster Pot’ and, having built an appetite, devoured our egg and spring onion sandwiches (eggs lovingly supplied, hard boiled and mashed with mayo by my sister Caroline).
Pulpit Rock
Feeling replete we set off to walk the other side of the island. This was an extremely long but steady incline, once again with the most wonderful views, this time of the 18 mile stretch of Chesil Beach and West Dorset. We hit a couple of areas where the path was closed due to cliff falls and were diverted inland a little – one section taking us through a disused quarry which has become a sculpture park.
Sculpture Park
The final stretch at Underhill was a steep and rocky descent, some steps provided in places but I still managed to take a tumble backwards, despite having remembered my walking pole this time. We ended our walk in Chiswell at The Cove House Inn, luxuriating in a long cold drink – lime and soda for me and something a little stronger for the big man.
The glorious Chesil Beach
Another 11 miles ticked off. Bus back to Weymouth and a little rest before going to meet friends on the beach tonight for drinks, music and dancing!
Another island walk today and we chose a sunny but blustery day to tread the high and exposed embankment loop. It was fine when the wind was behind us but a little more arduous when walking into it. Great paths though – so well maintained and much appreciated.
I’m still not 100% well so agreed to be part rambler/part chauffeur today – handy also in that the island is somewhat remote in terms of public transport. This being a large nature reserve, we parked up in the RSPB car park and, in the absence of any other walkers or twitchers, we got talking to the friendly RSPB man. He was so helpful in showing us the route on a map, informed us that the path was easygoing (I put my walking pole back) and pointed to his collection of wildlife photos. Amongst the pictures of birds, hares and butterflies my eyes were drawn to a photo of a snake! “Oh yes, we have adders here” he casually said, “You’ll find them basking on the sea walls.” And so a lot of heavy stomping went on today, to warn those pesky slithery things that ‘the Rambling Roses are coming, you better skedaddle!’
Besides that worry, it was a beautifully scenic walk, and as promised a huge variety of birds, colourful wild flowers and lots of perfectly tiny blue butterflies everywhere. We saw seals basking and swimming in the shallow waters too – always a treat.
Seals basking in the sunshine x
Not sure how we did it but the island walk turned out to be a mile or two longer than estimated and the last stretch by the marina was particularly narrow and high. My energy levels were dipping by this time and I felt extra wobbly, had to concentrate fully so as not to tip over the edge. 9 miles in and I was really flagging – we could see the car parked in the distance and I was willed on by the thought of cheese and pickle sandwiches awaiting us.
And like the bull worry a few days ago, no adders crossed our path today – thank the Lord!
After our picnic lunch, Steve walked on to the pretty village of Paglesham. I donned my chauffeur hat and drove there, parked up in the shade and enjoyed my book for an hour until my fellow rambler completed his 12 miles for the day.
That completes our walking for this little breakaway to Essex. Steve has walked 80 miles in that time – I’ve only managed half of that!
We have loved the area, loved the exquisite house we’ve been staying in and absolutely fallen in love with Bertie – the resident ginger cat. Mary and Doug have said we can come back anytime and I have a strong suspicion we’ll be taking them up on that offer. “Au revoir” as they say, “until we meet again.”
Loved this area of EssexThe gorgeous Bertie – loves having his tummy rubbed xx
Tuesday 13th May 2025 Little Wakering to Thorpe Bay
After venturing OUT OUT yesterday, firstly to visit the longest pleasure pier in the UK, it’s Southend in case you didn’t know! We then made our way into Leigh on Sea yesterday for dinner and drinks and may have slightly overdone the drinks thing but hey ho if you put the work in during the day?
A new King Charles III Coast Path sign
With previous coastal path conditions in mind (it’s overgrown!) we hatched a cunning plan, that Dee would drop me off at Little Wakering to handle the jungle part of the walk, whilst Dee drove back to base and then walk out to meet me along the promenade. I got eight plus miles of sea defence walls and estuary which actually today weren’t too bad, whilst my partner got four miles of prom, although it was a bit breezy today!
The overgrown path at Little Wakering
Bright sunny weather out on the marshland and estuary today with just loads of wild birds everywhere, along with spectacular scenery.
Our plan of meeting in the middle worked perfectly, timed to perfection by the Southend on Sea sign, now there’s planning for you!
Just a case then of stopping for a spot of lunch (chicken and salad sandwiches) on the cliff top before completing the walk back to our home for the week. In total about eleven miles completed today.
Rather strange starting this blog when you would like to be positive … because how lucky I am that on a beautiful summer’s day I can just rock up and walk 15 miles along the England Coastal Path.
So lets get a few moans out the way:-
Several miles of this path are overgrown, head high nettles amongst others, a machete would have been handy.
Several miles of the path are rock hard underfoot where cattle have rutted the ground, real ankle twisting territory.
The signs today were awful, without the OS app there would be no chance.
I saw several traveller types, racing their horses on tarmac at 20mph in 25 degrees, driving a pick up truck alongside whilst they were ‘encouraging the horses!!’
Right that’s got that out of the way, so now for the good news:-
The train ride there and back cost about a fiver and gave some fantastic coast and beach views.
My cheese sandwich and banana lunch were awesome, although I did have to watch aforementioned horse racing whilst eating (not my choice, they pulled up in front of my roadside seat!)
The London Gateway Port is huge and mega impressive in an industrial sense, the largest deep sea port in the UK, it took me over an hour to walk around it.
I’ve seen more shipping containers today than at any other time in my life.
I saw some lovely flowers, buttercups and something?
I snapped a few folks having fun on jet sky things.
Anyways, that’s another 15 miles clocked up on the Thames Estuary and just a few more before we reach the pedestrian tunnel at Woolwich, where you can walk under the Thames!!
A rather pleasant day today although walking 15+ miles after a 3 mile parkrun does make for a lengthy day … even more so because my normal walking buddy decided to rest up.
So it was a day walking either side of the River Roach, accompanied by a cacophony of cuckoo sound and the absolute treat of watching not just one game of cricket but two!
It’s unusual to see one game of village cricket these days let alone two but it appears that Rochford CC, a small Essex village, are able to do just that! Lucky them and lucky me.
Anyway enough sport distraction, this is a tale from the river bank – a gloriously sunny day, spectacular estuary views, birds a-plenty and a bus back home for dinner, having been dropped off in Paglesham by Mrs R just four hours earlier.
Along this coast we’ve seen shells used as decoration and thought they may have been washed up by the tide – but inland this is surely the largest pile of shells ever seen?They even make farm roads from the shells!Shells from the opposite bank.
Whilst being recognised as the England Coastal Path it seems that not many folks have walked along this section, although in late spring the grass and cow parsley is in full growth mode, making it almost a case of wading through the waist high undergrowth! The views though are amazing and can be doubly appreciated as you walk the other side of the river on the way back. This Essex coastline has endless such inlets to be covered.
I have to say, our coastal path walking has highlighted that parts of this delightful small island we live on remains pretty much undiscovered … you can walk for miles with not another person in sight. A lonely 15 miles completed, just the birds, cricket and sea shells to keep me company!!
Oh yes please, what fun!! A nice easy start, catching the regular train from Thorpe Bay station into Benfleet and from there a 200 yard walk to the path onto Canvey Island.
Neither of us had any idea of what to expect and we were both immediately struck by the organised signage, the well maintained paths, the incredibly stylish houses and the general neatness …. I’m talking Stepford Wives neatness. Nothing out of place and signs saying ‘not to do this and not to do that ..’ – we felt we needed to be on our best behaviour.
It was mostly sea defence wall walking but with pleasant views of the island itself and also across the water we could enjoy the spectacle of the Kent countryside. The sky was so blue today, practically cloudless, the sun was shining although a little breezy too. We rambled on quite contentedly, lapping up the flat and easy terrain. We came across Shell’s Marina Tearoom after 5 miles and treated ourselves to an early break – Steve had a mid morning snack of bacon and cheese toasted flatbread and I resisted, just had a caffeine top up!
Looking across to KentAn early rest break at Shell’s Marine Tearoom
There was a more touristy section of the island with bars, cafes, amusements and funfairs – I’m sure this is popular in the summer months. And there is a man made beach and promenade which made for a pretty stroll, plenty of people about. At said beach, 6.5 miles in, we considered stopping for our picnic lunch but then decided to get a little further. Of course, big mistake, hindsight and all that … it was another 3 miles before we found a suitable spot to stop. The main reason being that we hit a stretch of industrial eyesore with an unpleasant stench of gas, not conducive to tucking into sandwiches and fruit.
Canvey Island football stadiumThe beach
Feeling replete once again, we headed on, leaving the heavy industry behind and enjoying an area of countryside. Some beautiful birds today and wild flowers but a noticeable lack of butterflies. Sadly, this is where the day’s enjoyment took a bit of a turn. We came across one of those gates with the dreaded ‘beware of the bull’ warnings! My anxiety immediately went up a couple of notches while Steve came out with his typical country boy confidence, saying “well, do you really want to turn back!? After 11 miles of walking you find you don’t give the response you think you might!! I stayed close on Steve’s heels for the next couple of miles, constantly scanning the area and trying to come up with a contingency plan. I’d seen a solo magpie earlier and, although I’d said “Good morning Mr. Magpie,” I just felt there was an element of sorrow looming. Suffice to say, no bull showed up and we lived to tell the tale.
Then, after a mile or two of that angst, the coastal path turned into the narrowest of high paths that became increasingly overgrown the further we went. There was nothing we could do, we just had to suffer it in silence, I absolutely hated it. You have to close your mind off to what might be lurking below and tread carefully so that nothing trips you up. Eventually, after what seemed like hours, we broke free and made our way to the road and off the island.
Try picking your way through this for 2 miles!
So a day of mixed terrain and mixed emotions … but we did complete the 14.5 mile loop. It certainly hasn’t shifted this illness that I seem to have so, change of plan – I am now going to rest for a few days … apart from an easygoing Parkrun tomorrow.
Saturday 10th May 2025
Southend Parkrun – a beautiful 3 lap course. More looping!!
Thursday 8th May 2025 – 80th Anniversary of VE Day
We thought our house-sit was in Leigh-on-Sea but it turned out to be in nearby Thorpe Bay, an equally pleasant part of the Essex Coastline. The house we are staying in is pretty wonderful, we shall be languishing in 5* luxury for the next 9 days. And we have the delightful company of a ginger tom called ‘Bertie’ who is easygoing and low maintenance – his only requirements are to be fed plenty and to receive frequent tummy rubs. We’ve struck lucky.
Bertie – a little camera shy!
We arrived yesterday afternoon and, after a thorough introduction to the house, our very lovely hosts Mary and Doug took us out for a scrumptious meal in a nearby Turkish restaurant. It was a great opportunity for us all to feel comfortable with each other … after a couple of glasses of wine and whole deal of chatting, it was like saying goodbye to long lost friends as we waved them off on their holiday to Portugal.
Not to moan but I’ve been unwell for some weeks now – just a cold/cough but hugely lacking in energy – I’m beginning to wonder if it’s long covid because I just can’t seem to shake it. I had thought I’d leave Steve to do the walking on this trip, and I could just relax and enjoy the sea air. But waking up to a sunny day and knowing it was a flat walk, I thought I’d ease my body back into some exercise – it could be just the cure I needed.
Our accommodation is a short walk from the promenade at Thorpe Bay so that was our official start for the day. It’s strange to think that the water is the Thames – with the sand and the beach huts it looks just like any seaside. There were even some swimmers at various points, emerging from their daily constitutions, clad in the compulsory dry robes and crocs. I take my hat off to each and every one of them.
Starting off from Thorpe Bay
It was an easy promenade stroll where we could relish in envy at the stunning beachfront properties – there’s clearly some money in these parts. Continuing on we met the contrast of Southend-on-Sea with its garish amusements, funfairs and casinos – having said that it was still smart and interesting to walk through, certainly plenty of things to do. And then on to the pretty area of Leigh-on-Sea with its famous seafood restaurants – Steve’s excited for his cockles and whelks!
Don’t jump!!Colourful SouthendLeigh-on-Sea
This was 6 miles in and I was beginning to flag – I considered stopping off and letting Steve carry on without me. However, we took sustenance in the decking area of ‘The Galley’ – turned out a soothing mug of cappuccino and a bacon, avocado and tomato panini gave me the boost I needed to soldier on, and I’m so glad I did.
Just past here we took in the 3 mile walk around ‘Two Tree Island’ – a pretty nature reserve that also provides a setting for model plane enthusiasts. As we walked through the colourful and pungent flora we were accompanied by the whizzing noises overhead – interspersed with real aircraft flying low as they made their descents into Southend Airport. There were definitely more than two trees on the island – apparently the name comes from when the land was first reclaimed.
We picked up a path just off the island which became a generously proportioned sea defence wall with pretty views either side, absolutely gorgeous. We enjoyed this 3 mile walk into Benfleet where our station awaited us. We passed the bridge which will tomorrow take us onto our ramble around Canvey Island. And so back to Thorpe Bay where we relaxed in the very lovely garden and soaked up some afternoon sunshine.
Steve in his happy place!
Not sure if it’s cured me but it was a great day and we have 12 more miles ticked off.
We’ve just arrived home in Deanshanger after almost three weeks in the stunning county of Yorkshire … and we have definitely left a piece of our hearts there. This is the final blog for now to catch up on our last few days there.
The formidable Yorkshire Moors
Saturday
It was Dalby Forest Parkrun for us this week and without doubt it was the most scenic one to date – wished I’d stopped running to take photos – it was like Switzerland. Lots of forest, rivers and sheep on the sloping hillside – but great paths and not too hilly a run at all. We were joined by Lynda and Rebecca – great to have their company. Coffee after naturally then back to Lynda’s for a magnificent full English.
With Lynda and Rebecca
In the afternoon we drove out to Hutton-le-Hole for a picture perfect walk in a typical Yorkshire village. Apparently these villages are packed in the summer months but we managed to get a table in the tea shop – picked a good time of year to visit. So so pretty.
Sunday
Lynda and Paul very kindly drove us to Bridlington today so we could coastal ramble our way to Bempton Cliffs where they would pick us up. So good of them to ferry us around like this but they said they were enjoying some time off from their house renovation and also getting to see parts of the Yorkshire coastline they’d not yet visited.
So, we started off with a stretch of funfair filled promenade walk in Bridlington which led us on to some clifftop walking. We covered 6 miles in the morning sunshine and despite some pretty testing ascents and descents we loved it – coastal walking at its best – scenery beyond your wildest imagination. I was glad I had my trusty walking pole with me though, a little slippy in places and a lot of deep steps to climb down.
The path was so populated today – it was Sunday of course, and the sun was out … plus at Flamborough Head there was a huge colony of grey and common seals, basking on the rocks and in the water, so lots of families out enjoying the spectacle.
Colony of seals at Flamborough Head
Talk about 5* service – we were met half way by Lynda and Paul with the most delicious of picnics – this was certainly a more stylish ramble today. We tucked into gammon, cheese, mayo and pickle sandwiches, tomatoes, cucumber, crisps, a selection of fruit, carrot cake and lemon drizzle cake – it was like a full on banquet. As soon as I’d taken my last mouthful I was whisked off by Steve to complete the next half of today’s walk. No chance of letting the food settle!
The next 6 miles was equally as stunning in terms of the views and terrain but unfortunately the weather took a turn – the wind picked up and we were walking into it with gloomy skies overhead. This can so alter your mood and whereas I’d loved the first half, my spirits dropped in the second half … everything seemed to hurt. Fortunately Lynda, Paul and Sneeze the dog walked out a mile to meet us – it made a huge difference having their fresh and encouraging company to get that last mile done.
Paul and Lynda to the rescue
The most incredible feature of this section though was the nesting birds on the cliffs – our destination at Bempton Cliffs is an RSPB reserve – the most spectacular of sights and a cacophony of sound. We were just a few weeks early for puffins sadly but it was amazing to watch and listen to the thousands of gannets – it is known as ‘Seabird City.’
12 more miles achieved today … exquisite section of coastline but I think I’ll be taking a rest for a bit.
Monday
Steve walked 18 miles (see previous blog “Reporting from the Yorkshire Moors”)
Lynda and I drove Steve to his start point in Scarborough and after waving him off we embarked on an 8 mile look around this wonderful seaside town … and Sneeze came too. Another sunny blue sky day for us to enjoy strolling along the beach, watching the magnificent waves, seeing the town’s wonderful old buildings and pretty harbourside, climbing up to the castle and back down for more beach. Fitted in a mid-morning coffee and – it just had to be – chips with salt and vinegar on the sands. And back to Bempton Cliffs to rescue our weary coastal walker!
Pretty Scarborough BeachI made a new friend!Scrumptious fish and chips
Tuesday
Absolutely no coastal walking but still two walks. Farndale Daffodil Walk in the morning – an incredible experience to both walk and drive through these mind blowing Yorkshire Moors, it’s like another world. Sadly there was not the carpet of daffodils we were expecting, possibly we were a little early – a gorgeous walk all the same. Then in the afternoon we drove to the market town of Helmsley – again, chocolate box prettiness – a dream place to live I imagine, wonderful shops.
The gorgeous ‘Sneeze’ xPretty market town of Helmsley
We have managed to tick off a further 170 miles of coastal path on this trip – we’re getting there!
These 5 days in Kirkbymoorside with Lynda and Paul have been fabulous – they are just the best hosts ever. We have eaten like Kings (Lynda is an amazing cook), we have laughed, chatted, played games, explored the area and consumed a fair amount of vino … not to mention the cheese and port. They have a beautiful home in this perfect town on the edge of the Moors …. I’m not at all envious!!!!! They are lovely friends and we will be back.
Having moved to The Yorkshire Moors over the last couple of days it was with some excitement that Mrs R decided a rest day might be appropriate to explore the delights on offer in Scarborough so walking responsibilities (and blog writing) were taken over for the day by myself!
With our friends Lynda and Paul offering to drop off at the start and collect me at the end of the walk I took on the section of Yorkshire path from Bempton to Scarborough. When planning, 16 miles seemed to be the distance, however it was actually nearer 18 miles …. it’s always nice to get a couple of bonus miles! An absolutely wonderful day for walking though, with spectacular views over sea and moors, if you’ve not been here then I hope a few of the pictures give an idea of the beauty.
Leaving Scarborough with the town in the background.Looking back across the bays, with Scarborough now in the far distance.Approaching Filey with the beach and town beckoning.
Whilst admiring the views here it’s very difficult not to draw comparisons with the stunning Cornish coastline. A perhaps unexpected surprise of our coastal walking though is just how wonderful so many parts of our island are and offer so much beauty, in particular here in the North East.
Anyway, we’re nearing the end of our current walking adventures with just a day or two left. Your normal blogger returns very soon, I’ll just leave you with a nice muddy path picture to brighten your day ha ha!
No walkers / photographers were harmed whilst filming!
The rambling roses 