Wednesday 4th September 2024

Day 3 – Gilestone to Southerndown

Up with the lark at 6.30am (well not me, I’m always last up) to prepare ourselves for our 13 mile walk … this is how we holiday!! Getting quite slick with our logistics now so drove to Southerndown, parked up and within minutes our trusty bus arrived. Slight mystery though as we had to pay for two tickets each as the service changed midway. So, one bus, one driver but two fares as the same bus that we sat on throughout changed from the 303 to the 304 – weird. The narrowest of country roads with many a stand off but we arrived in Gileston without a scratch.

The area was familiar to us from yesterday and we wandered down to where we knew the coastal path started. We’d had some indication from a walking couple yesterday that some of the path might be closed … Steve however insisted that he could use his nose and work it all out (size of nose jokes ensued). He also felt confident that his OS app would see us through so no need to panic – leading to more laughs about Steve being ‘App Man’ – he can switch from Co-op app to OS app in the blink of an eye. Anyway, David J had his trusty OS map and that could never fail us.

We found the path and we got off to a great start. Beautiful weather today, blue sky with a little wind to keep us cool. Stunning scenery from the off. We were walking and chatting our way up a pretty robust path when we were literally attacked verbally by an angry farm lady who came at us full barrels – “there’s a ‘keep to the footpath’ sign, can’t you read?” She was accompanied by two loudly barking dogs – they were only labradors but there was no way they were going to let us pass by her property. All five of us were so shocked by her outburst that we meekly turned back. We had missed an obscure makeshift sign that indicated a temporary and overgrown path to the left – it took us in a small circle for about 5 minutes and then back on to the path we had just come off. At every opening the dogs stood and barked – what a friendly homestead.

We walked from this point over a number of farm fields where no paths had been left for walkers, despite it being a public footpath – presumably the same farmer – boy, her ears must have been burning. Also we had to walk through a tunnel of brambles and nettles, the worst we have ever experienced – blood was drawn. That was her fault too. We discussed going back to say our piece … maybe another time!

A bit of beach walking too – the large pebble variety, that was interesting. Plenty of driftwood for makeshift walking poles – as usual I had left my walking pole in the boot of the car.

And then the dreaded sign appeared – ‘Path Closed due to Cliff Erosion.’ The trouble was that the only thing we could have done was to go back through the vicious brambles, back along the non-existent farm field paths, back to the barking dogs and crazy angry woman – well, basically back to the start. Team talk time – we decided to use all our gumption and sneak round the barrier and see what the closed off section was like. I know, we’re very naughty. It was about 100 yards section and about one yard of it was pretty close to the edge, but completely manageable. So much so that we went on to pass two other groups of walkers and we suggested that they could ignore the diversion too – praying that we don’t hear on the local news about some cliff fallers.

The walk just got better and better. Mostly cliff top with stunning views, numerous inclines and descents of course, woods, more pebbles, farm fields, cows and sheep – all wonderful. And I have to say, a very generous route for cafes and toilets – a rambler’s dream.

We had coffee at Llantwit Major and then walked on to admire the spectacle of St. Donat’s Castle. Our picnic spot for today was at Nash Point near the picturesque lighthouse. So much to enjoy on today’s ramble … and we passed many rambling groups too with whom we exchanged stories. Then, nearing the end we were able to visit the walled gardens of Dunraven Castle, dating back to 1543 – worth a stop off.

A final big trudge up yet another hill, brought us back to our destination at Southerndown. En route we completed our blackberry picking, essential ingredient for Steve’s promised blackberry crumble – if only our airbnb had sufficient dishes … I’m sure we’ll improvise.

13 miles today – it was a walk I’d highly recommend … but just beware of the Angry Woman!!