Previously known as King Charles III Coastal Path, at the moment there is actually more resemblance with the nearby River Parrett which has perhaps been re-routed without us having received the email.
Today’s blog is a guest visit from the ol’ fella as your regular blogger made a great call deciding that today was a step / bridge / water feature too far, that decision being well founded!
An eleven mile walk included a diversion around the new under construction power station along with just about every natural feature you could wish for and I list in no particular order:-
Steep climbs / descents (on mud and running streams), rock climbing, the opportunity to get stranded on the beach along with aforementioned path diversion which entailed wading through water about twelve inches deep … the picture is below, and if you’re thinking that’s a river then you are correct, although it’s supposed to be a road but in the meantime the heavy plant from the power station has had different ideas. The warning sign picture of high tide flooding was actually after I had walked along three miles of beach, it would have been a real help if that sign had been at both ends of the beach!
However for all these obstacles it was splendid to see the Somerset coast on a rather warm day and with Dee not walking it enabled me to call thirty minutes before I needed meeting for the drive back to base.
That concludes our walking for now as normal life beckons and judging by the amount of rain falling today I would guess the coastal path could be even more challenging over the next few days!
Thank you for following our rambles, we’ve now covered some two thirds of the England and Wales path. Our next plans include North Wales and Anglesey in April joined by David Rose, followed by The Gower Peninsula in September with David once again, along with Ros and DJ as the ‘Five Go Exploring’ story continues. Until then….love to all xx
Today was so special meeting up with these lovely people. Our walk was taking us through Blue Anchor Bay – in July 2017 we stayed there, at the Langbury Hotel for a couple of nights, before nervously starting off on our retirement project of walking the UK Coastline. Nigel and Paula were our wonderful hosts.So we couldn’t just walk by without seeing if they were still there and letting them know that we were still rambling. Imagine our surprise when they greeted us so warmly, remembering who we were as they’d been following our adventures through the blog. That is why I say ‘heartwarming’ in the title because it warmed our hearts that they had done that. We had a fabulous hour exchanging our stories – Nigel and Paula too are great travellers and wildlife photographers. https://www.langbury.co.uk/They now run their stunning residence as self-catering accommodation – if you’re down this way, we would highly recommend.
The day started off with the most wonderful breakfast, served up by Keith, the owner of this fabulous hotel we’re staying in – http://the-georgian-house.somersethotels24.com/en/ Watchet is great, the hotel is great – life is good.
The sumptuous dining room where we enjoy breakfast.
We’d been pre-informed that there was a diversion off the Coastal Path as you leave Watchet – we just needed to follow the yellow signs. This was really helpful although we still got a little lost … we diverted off the diversion somehow!! But once we were back on it again the path was fairly straightforward, largely walking through woodland but with coastal views too. A fair amount of uphill, a fair amount of mud and water and this meant a fair amount of slippery downhill slopes – I took it very slow, I mean literally inching my way down, I must have looked ridiculous!!
An excellent bar we’ve found in WatchetThere are lots of these little men around in Watchet – possibly connected to the Arty community here and the town’s history of tin miningNothing like walking through muddy puddles – wet feet again!!
Half way along the route we reached Blue Anchor Bay – a place that holds fond memories for us and where we enjoyed our meet up with Nigel and Paula.
Blue Anchor Bay
And then on to Minehead via Dunster Beach. A gloriously flat walk, quite a lot of water around but plenty of chances to divert and stay dry. The white peaks of Butlins loomed ahead as we entered the town but if felt good to be walking along the promenade again. It was amazing looking up at the hill where our walking first started – how it didn’t put us off I’ll never know.
I guess we should have saved this bit to the very end but it’s just seemed silly not to do it while we were down this way. We reckon we have ‘rambled’ 2/3 of England and Wales now – we still have bits and pieces to do here and there. Scotland is probably out of the question now – we may do that in a different style of transport.
Looking back on our very first climb!!The white peaks of ButlinsThe very start of the South West Coastal Path – on Minehead promenade.
But today’s meet up with Nigel and Paula summed up the beauty of creating memories – we all said what fabulously interesting people we had met on our journeys and how they had enriched our lives … and there’s always room for more.
And this is a link to the blog where our rambling days started:
A fabulously gentle 5 mile stroll today – our project being the bit of the coastal path we left off on Wednesday … abandoned due to uncertainty of terrain, darkness looming and low spirits! The path was between Brean and Weston-super-Mare. We largely stuck to the cycle path in preference to the sea wall and it completely paid off – a perfect walk, very enjoyable.
The cycle pathA bird hide
The last two miles of it was walking along the beach, so so populated with dog walkers as well as kite surfers and buggies. We walked right up to the Grand Pier and before saying our farewells to WSM we indulged in some hot sugary donuts and coffee – relief treats!
The beach walk to Weston-super-Mare
Brean Down
The Grand Pier
We’d left our house-sit today, saying our goodbyes to Dave and Gathina (super friendly cats) and drove down to our next stop – a small hotel in the lovely seaside village of Watchet. We’ve had a little look around and first impressions are great … seems to be an arty community here, lots of galleries and small theatres. Looking forward to exploring more over the next couple of days.
Bye bye Gathina xBye-bye DaveOur pretty bedroom for the next few nightsThe harbour in WatchetEast Quay, in Watchet – an interesting collection of galleries, studios, shops and cafes
And we’ll be back out on that muddy path tomorrow – wish us luck.
What could possibly be better, when you’re having some resting days from coastal walking (for physical and mental reasons!!!), than a two hour walking tour around the city streets of Bristol. But it was fantastic – interesting, informative and a huge variety of stories and experiences. Our guide Luke was a wonderful narrator and the time flew by. What a fascinating city Bristol is – packed with history, both ancient and modern. Our guided tour ranged from Bristol’s seafaring history, including the links to slavery, the churches and cathedral, the range of architecture spanning centuries, famous Bristolians, right up to modern day street art. https://www.getyourguide.co.uk/ – really recommend it.
A perfect example of old and new
And of course, Saturday wouldn’t be Saturday without the inevitable parkrun photo – this morning’s run at Eastville Park … I warn you it’s hilly.
In the 32 years we’ve been together, this is the first time that we’ve not exchanged Valentines Day cards, flowers, chocolates etc. We’re far too busy rambling! Actually, we were aware it was looming but it just caught us out in terms of acquiring said gifts. Nevertheless, what better than a stroll from Burnham-on-Sea to Weston-super-Mare … we’re just a pair of old romantics.
We drove the car to Weston-super-Mare as yesterday’s reliance on public transport had added an extra 4 hours to our day out. Unfortunately we just missed a bus and had to wait an hour for the next No. 20 to Burnham. On arrival we were pleasantly surprised that we could walk along the beach (as opposed to the sand dunes) the 6 mile route taking us to Brean. It was overcast but dry and there was lots of life on the beach – dog walkers and children playing – a beautiful start to the day. There were frequent signs about sinking mud further out, so we made sure we kept close to the back of the beach. We didn’t need any stress today.
We stopped in Brean for refreshment and could see a huge climb ahead – Brean Down. Steve did mention that we could skip this part altogether but we just couldn’t bring ourselves to cheat – what is wrong with us!!? So up the flight of steps we went – 97 metres of it – but at least we could stay upright and there was a handrail … luxury! And boy was it worth it, the views were tremendous – looking out over the Bristol Channel towards South Wales and over the Somerset levels. We both said that in all our years of walking it was one of the most magnificent views we had seen. You see, there is some logic and benefits to this crazy life we lead.
At the top is a site of a Roman temple and the path led us up and down to a National Trust property called Palmerston Fort – it is now a ruin but was built to defend the country against a possible Napoleonic invasion and later used in WWII. It was fairly muddy underfoot and slippery so we kept looking for shortcuts but they weren’t abundant. We were fairly close to the end of the headland when we spotted one – it meant a fairly steep descent so we took it steady – we had about a metre left to go when my feet went from underneath me and I took a slip slide down, caking myself in thick yellow mud. I wasn’t amused.
Palmerston Fort – National TrustThe cows have bellsSpotted a pheasant
Luckily the lower path was drier and flatter so I managed to compose myself as we walked back along the other side – we had magnificent views of Weston-super-Mare from here and it made it seem so much more doable. We found ourselves at a junction where a tarmac path would have taken us back to where we had lunched in Brean – but our OS app was indicating that the coastal path route was the other option – a muddy narrow path downhill through the woods. No prizes for guessing which path we chose. I don’t know why I did it because I grumbled and moaned the whole way down about it being ridiculous – I was extra nervous after my tumble. Once again, just shy of the end, I fell onto my side this time and collected an even more muddy look. My very words were “that’s it, I’m not taking any more risks.”
And to think we could have skipped the whole headland as we were pretty much back where we started an hour ago. But we would have missed the views!
It wasn’t even 5 minutes before we were forced to take said risk!! The coastal path sign indicated that the path was available between April and July. The trouble was that there didn’t seem to be any alternative and we had to get back to our car. Steve was getting concerned about getting back in daylight. The gates to the embankment path were open so on we went, and the next few gates were open too. It was wet, muddy and unpleasant but it least it was taking us back to where we needed to go. About halfway along the 3 mile stretch of embankment however, the gates were padlocked … but climb over we did in preference to going back. Our spirits were low but we trudged on and climbed over numerous gates. When we got to the turning point to take us to the other side of the estuary, we made the decision to abandon ship – we were facing another 3 or 4 miles of embankment walking and unknown territory in terms of locked gates etc.
A rerminder of the dreaded estuary and its embankment wall
We found a route to a bus stop a mile away and then had to wait an hour for a bus into Weston-super-Mare. We cheered ourselves up with an orange Club biscuit – simple pleasures. We hated having to give up but we needed to get back safely. It was a bath, food and an early night for us – completely exhausted. Happy Valentines Day. xx
Thursday 15th February 2024
We’re taking a day or two off walking. The travelling to our start points is getting too long and complicated. We’ll be finding something a little more leisurely to do for a few days until we move further down the coast at the weekend. Planning a belated Valentines meal out today.
Yesterday was a day to remember, perhaps a turning point in this retirement project of ours. We need to stay safe and we need to enjoy our times on the coast. So King Charles, if there’s no official coastal path we’re just not going to do it.
The only thing I knew about Weston-super-Mare is that the tide is generally so far back, that it requires a hike if you fancy a swim. Today was my first visit and it involved catching two buses to get there – the 49 into Bristol Centre and then the X1, but straightforward enough. Our first impressions of Weston-super-Mare were good – we liked it. Its piers and hospitality were welcoming and the hotels with their bay views seemed grand and elegant. And ironically the tide was SO far in that the waves were lapping up onto the promenade. That’s how much I know!
The Old Pier has seen better days!
But, as always, we were soon off to find the coastal path as our plan was to walk to Clevedon today. Steve was particularly anxious about the route as only such a small part of if was official Coastal Path – the rest he had to devise through the means of Ordnance Survey. What could possibly go wrong!? Being an estuary, so much of this coastline is mud flats and sea defence walls – with that and it being SO wet plus ongoing downpours, we made the executive decision to steer ourselves more inland and stick to walking on country roads in preference. At this ripe old age we have to put our Health & Safety hats on sometimes. Despite his meticulous planning, there can always be an element of surprise (e.g. locked bridges or flooding) so sometimes we have to just see how it goes.
The leaving of Weston-super-Mare was a lovely stretch uphill with the scenic sea views on our left. As we reached Weston woods there was some roadside walking and then a path through the woods kindly took as away from the traffic noise just a little. We soon reached the village of Kewstoke and wandered through admiring some stunning houses. The ‘Private Pavement’ signs were a little officious however – naturally we just had to walk on them – such rebels!!
In the same village – obviously very precious about their parking!
Just out of the village we picked up signs for a cycle path to Clevedon … and what’s good for cyclists is certainly good for us. So for some time we wandered along country roads – diving into hedges sometimes as the odd speedy car appeared. There were a few railways crossings to manoeuvre and bridges too as we ducked and dived our way, avoiding motorways and other busy roads.
Can you spot the garden shed travelling at 50mph? Can you spot the Cross Country Express travelling at 100mph?
The bit of the route that Steve had worried about the most came to fruition in the shape of 5 farm fields that we had to squelch our way through, quite literally … it was gross. But he was so relieved that the promised bridge was in place, as was the ladder down to the stinky ‘ cattle creep” underpass … and so we managed to achieve a way through under the M5 Motorway.
It’s a cattlecreep!
After that it was country roads all the way to Clevedon, albeit it stretching endlessly – the Beatles lyrics “long and winding road” came to mind for a good hour or so. Then Clevedon came into view and we were so grateful and, despite the miles, terrain and weather we’d encountered, we felt chuffed at what we’d achieved.
Some strange plantersNewborns
But of course there was one more killer spot at the end – Wain’s Hill – this involved us scrabbling up the steep cliff on all fours to reach the Coastal Path at the top to take us down into Clevedon beachfront. I’m sure there must have been an alternative route but, despite searching, we couldn’t find it anywhere. A fitting and unglamorous end to the walking day – I even came nose to nose with a terrier and frightened the life out of him!
Finally we had returned to this very pretty seaside town of Clevedon where we rewarded ourselves with tea and shortbread in one of their very delightful cafes. What a day it had been – a lot of rain, a lot of mud … and 16 miles of walking.
I have to give full credit to Mr. Rose for his genius in planning out these routes – I always trust him and sometimes it can go a little pear shaped but not today. And as for the King Charles III England Coast Path – where were you today? It just goes to show …. sometimes in life you just have to make your own path!
Checked out of the Travelodge first thing this morning and drove to Fishponds, a suburb of Bristol, where we are doing a house-sit for the next 7 days. Jess and her two children, Nico and Eleanor, are flying out to Tenerife – before they went they introduced us to all the gang who are now in our charge. We have 2 cats, Dave and Gathina, 2 guinea pigs, Guinness and Scraps and 2 quails who remain nameless! We’ve been warned about foxes so hoping to still have 6 pets on the register when the family return next Sunday.
Once we were settled and the fridge and pantry were stocked up, we caught a bus into the city of Bristol. Neither of us have been here for a long long time so we were interested to explore. Took in all the sights, visited the M Shed, Brunel’s SS Great Britain, the cathedral, took a ferry – we loved it. So many cafes, bars and restaurants – I hear it’s a great place for a Stag Weekend.
It’s a Banksy y’know!
Monday 12th February 2024
Today’s walk – Clevedon to Pill (11 miles)
Drove to Pill and parked up, planning to catch the two necessary buses to get us to Clevedon. A little bit of a mix up with bus timings resulted in us taking an Uber instead. Lovely driver though who takes us right to the seafront and recommended a place for breakfast. So ‘Tiffens’ it was … and I can highly recommend the bacon bap. Clevedon is a pretty Victorian seaside town but it was just a short stop for us before we set off to find the Coastal Path.
Steve’s breakfast at Tiffen’s – a posh full EnglishClevedon Pier
It was a wonderful path today, cliffside, walking alongside the estuary, uphill and downhill through woodland, sounds of the seabirds and waves making us feel coastal, the sun was shining and there was a cool breeze … the only downside was the mud … 6 miles of it. It took all our concentration and balance to stay upright – there were many slips and slides and grabbing on to whatever was available. We passed many other walkers and we all exchanged our mud tales. But I’m proud to say we both made it through without a complete tumble – thank God for walking boots – today they well and truly met the mud.
This was a dry patchThe two River Severn bridges into Wales
We passed ‘Sugar Loaf Beach’ which sounded like a Caribbean paradise … it was pretty but not quite at that level.
At Portishead, another very attractive resort with stunning houses, we stopped for refreshment at the Lido – Steve tucked into a huge slab of Victoria sponge. I stupidly abstained but immediately regretted it. And they didn’t frown at our oh so muddy boots!
After Portishead, there was a bit more woodland walking, then some country lanes and bridle paths to lead us all the way back to Pill, where our trusty car awaited. The terrain improved although there were still some muddy patches and deep puddles lurking. We couldn’t help but be fascinated by the miles and miles of car storage facilities in this area – brand new shiny cars all lined up waiting to go somewhere – wish they could spare us one.
Pick a car … any car!!
In May 2023, the England Coast Path was renamed The King Charles III England Coast Path, to mark the coronation. I think I might be writing to Charlie boy to get some of this mud cleared up before someone goes over the edge!
Today was all about the Severn Bridge. We had yet to cover it to link our England walk (so far) to our Wales Walk (so far). And what better way to kick it off than a parkrun. We had much discussion as to how to travel to the start – drive, run or walk … but drive it was and we parked up in Chepstow.
There we met up with our great friends, Ros and David (who have a getaway house in Chepstow) and Matt Jones who was staying with them for the weekend. David has an injury so was time-keeping today but the rest of us eagerly lined up for the start of our favourite Saturday pursuit – the parkrun. To be truthful it was a fabulous run, an out and back to halfway across the bridge, with spectacular views. Despite some incline on the way out it all felt OK, particularly a long stretch of downhill on the return. Weather was mild too – absolutely no complaints.
Matt, Ros, David … Steve and meCan’t wait to get going!!
The very best bit was going back to Ros and David’s for tasty sausages, bacon, eggs etc. and lashings of tea and toast. Great to spend time with such lovely people – lots of laughing and exchanging our travel and many Redway Runners memories.
David kindly drove us back to the hotel where we had a quick turn around before heading out for the Severn Bridge again. This time we had to walk the whole way across it, so covering the Coastal Path distance and achieving the retrieval of our car. It was a wee bit more chilly and windy by this time but still a fabulous walk. Cyclists certainly rule the way on this route though – make no mistake! It turned out to be less than 3 miles though so an easy day all round. Hey ho, that’s how the cookie crumbles.
Cyclists rule the way!Light at the end of the tunnelAnd just to make us feel more at home!!
We’re back for more. Two weeks to fill the coastal path gap we have between Chepstow in Wales and Minehead, Somerset. Today we walked between Pill (the name originates from a Welsh word for tidal inlet) and Aust (derived from the latin name Augusta) and I can tell you the day was a real mixed bag!!
We drove up from Milton Keynes yesterday afternoon – we’re not due to start our house-sitting until Sunday so we’d booked into a Travelodge for 3 nights. Seemed like a good idea at £40 a night as it was just near the Coastal Path and also well positioned to do the Severn Bridge parkrun plus a couple of days walking. It was a foul day weather-wise and the hotel was on the M48 Service area with pretty uninspiring dining facilities, so not the most attractive of starts. It was a choice between Costa and Burger King for dinner so the burger won out – and we treated ourselves to a can of Gin and Tonic each from WH Smith to cheer ourselves up – Rock and Roll. And gasp horror – no free Wifi.
We had a great night’s sleep though – the bed was comfy. Steve had planned the first day’s walk but by the time we woke in the morning he had devised a whole new route. The best we could do for breakfast was a BLT sandwich from the services, with a cup of tea. But it was so lucky we had that as we saw nothing else until we returned from our walk 5 hours later!
We took an Uber ride to the pretty village of Pill, the sun was shining and all was well in the world. In a very short space of time we were crossing the bridge on the M5 Motorway and from thereon in we were walking through dockside and industrial areas, residential areas and miles of roadside – with articulated lorries whizzing by at 60mph – it was a pollution fest for 7 miles … it just seemed endless and dispiriting.
At mile 7 however things took a better turn and there were paths that took us away from the roads so the noise levels greatly improved. And we had views of the estuary and the magnificent bridges – the Prince of Wales Bridge and the Severn Bridge. The weather had largely been kind to us but for the last two miles we got drenched in a downpour and with plenty of flooded paths we arrived back at the Services like drowned rats.
It was 13 miles of walking today – unless you’re trying to complete the whole UK coastline I would suggest it’s one to miss. But having discovered a bit in daylight today we find we’re near the lovely village of Aust and, now we’re all dry and recovered, we’re about to visit the pub for refreshment. Tomorrow’s another day – it’s Severn Bridge parkrun and we’re meeting Ros and David.